You probably have scissor jacks as rear stabilizers. They are good for up and down movement, but are basically useless for side-to-side movement, they just wobble back and forth when there is movement inside the RV.
Wheel chocks do a good job of front-to-back movement, but again, very little for side-to-side movement.
When someone moves around in a slide, side-to-side movement is the problem. NEVER EVER put anything under the slide to support it. If the RV settles or rocks heavily, you could actually pop the slide off its track!
A lot of people swear by the JT’s, but they cost almost $300. We use the Wayne’s stabilizer that you can get on e-bay for about $10 plus shipping and feel it does just about as well.
We have a review of the Wayne's on our website. Here is the link.
'02 F350 7.3PSD CC LB DRW, Reese 20K Hitch, Brake Smart, AirLift, C-betr mirrors,
'04 Everest 343L, TrailAir, RotoChoks, Wayne's stabilizer
Toys: Fold-Away Pet Carrier, Thermos Grill 2 GO
For more info, visit Our RV web site.
I have tried them all over the years. Some helped, some did not. The king pin stabilizer combined with the wheel chocks was probably the best until I tried the J.T. Strongarms. They removed all movement. I gave my kingpin stabilizer away the same day I finished the install and was happy to see it go. It was heavy, took up a lot of room under the overhang and of course there was the issue of storing it when not in use. Ironically the guy I gave it to then purchased his own Strongarms after coming into my trailer and he gave it away also.
USN Retired
2007 Cedar Creek 30 RLSTS
2008 F350, DRW, V-10, B&W hitch,
Pressure Pro, JT Strongarms
The $300 I spent for the JT Strongarms has got to be the best $$$ I have spent. Very little movement and DW is happy which we all know makes for a good camping experience.
2006 F250 Extended Cab, Long Bed, 6.0 PSD, Tow Package
2006 Keystone Springdale 242
CactusJohn wrote: Here's the way I make my 5er rock solid every time: after I’ve leveled side to side, I tighten my BAL Deluxe Locking Tire Chocks between both sets of tires, level front to back with the landing gear, install my tripod stabilizer, and then lower the rear stabilizers.
DITTO
Retired Navy
2007.5 Dodge Ram SLT sport 2500 quad cab 6.7 cummins,6 speed auto with exhaust brake.
2007 Open Road 378SA4S-5 quad slide.
The best solution I have found is using 2 small bottle jacks placed between the tires to apply enough pressure to the springs. Using this and the tripod on the front makes our trailer "rockless". You can pick them up pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
Yes there are other Stabilizers and just b.c one is the best seller doesn't make it best product. I'll take Function over Hype any day.
JT's work, so do PlugItRights. I preferred the PIR's due to customer service and price. When I bought mine, the JT's were still well over 400 bucks. Now the JT's are more competitive in price. Makes you wonder how much margin they were getting before others came on the market.
To each his own but I am more happy to help support my local RV community by buying the PIRs...I use mine with the RotoChocks...great combo. 99% front to back movement is gone, 95% of the side to side is gone. The tripods are good and better than nothing....I found them just too much of a pain to store, set up etc.
2006 Ford F250 King Ranch PSD
2008 Jayco Eagle Super Light 31.5BHDS, KC5PFG,
5th Airborne with SideWinder, Plugitright Stabilizers.
kamper00
as Sandy and Shirley says those rear scissor jacks aren't the best for stabilizing. I've had Meneries dieses and cannot tolerate any movement at all. I found adjustable chocks for front to rear movement and 5er pin stabilizer for side to side movement at the front with a good rear stabilizer, such as JTs, for rear side to side movement makes for zero movement.
Jim
'03 2500 Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs
'97 Park Avanue 28' with two slides
Sounds like you need reas stabilizers. I made my own. We camped last weekend and had a strong side wind. No movement at all.
It may look iike the rear stabilizers are welded to the frame, but they are not. The frame just slides into the slot on top of the legs.
Here is my homemade front stabilizer.
I also made a wheel chock out of a sissor jack.
It takes 10 to 15 min to get everything set up, but well worth the time.
There is no place to boondock in Colorado. Repeat after me, there is no place to boondock in Colorado.
2006 Dura Max LBZ now in the driveway
Reese 16K slider-rocker
26ft Thor 5th wheel
2 Polaris Sportsman 500s
64'6" nose to tail when "Double Towing"
kamper00 wrote: I have a 26' Flagstaff 5er, and the camper rocks quite a bit when our son even just rolls over in his bed on the slideout.
Rear jacks down and very tight, just bought a king pin tripod to try...
What have you done to try to reduce the trailer movement? I am thinking that alot of my movement is due to the soft torsion axles, and the "I" beam construction. (just a trailer inherent to movement)
Was considering slideout supports and/or more heavy duty jacks in the rear.
Thoughts?
We've had the same problem -- here's some tricks that have significantly reduced our rocking this year.
1. RotoChocks -- we purchased 2 and installed them on both wheels. Hands down these type of chocks has reduced the movement in our trailer better than ANYTHING we have tried to date. (We were using the jacks in the picture above which helped a bit -- rotochocks for us has them beat hands down)
2. Rear jacks --- we added a few blocks of wood to reduce the amount of the jack we need to crank down. (We noticed rocking was worse in unlevel campsites that required us to really crank these puppies down and was amassed at the difference when someone suggested adding a few wood blocks to reduce the distance)
3. Front Jacks -- we try to minimize the amount we extend the jack
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