I put this on the Escapees forum; am putting it up here as well.
I could use a little help, guys. My DH is not up to this stuff anymore. It started with a 12 volt light bulb dying. When we replaced it with one from a lesser used light in hallway, the 20 amp fuse blew. I changed the fuse and it just immediately blew again. Next day, in the daylight, I tried it again; and again the new 20 amp fuse blew.
I was looking at the wiring diagram on the cover of the DC fuse box. It indicates that this set of lights: closet, bath & bedroom should be on 3 different fuses; but there are no wires to two of them.
This is a '94 Southwind; we've had it in fulltime use for 15 months; had no trouble like this before.
Any suggestions? I'm very electrically challenged.
Carolyn
Joey (Australian cattle dog/Brittany)
Oliver and Millie (don't know they're cats)
'94 Southwind (no slides)
'05 Honda Civic Hybrid
I'm going to guess something is wrong with the bulb socket or the fixture itself. Does anything else not work with the fuse out besides the light? If so do they work with the fuse replaced and no bulb in the light?
It sounds like one of the two sockets developed a short when you moved the bulb. Remove the fixture screws and carefully check the wires for any problems. Next disconnect one of the two wires to the bulb socket. Repeat for the second light if the problem is not found.
BTW Wiring diagrams are just a guide as changes are not always documented.
Do you have a test light? It needs to be the type with a light bulb. Remove the fuse, and hook in the test light in place of the fuse. If it’s an ATC type fuse, (plastic plug in type with spade terminals… yellow 20 amp, red 10 amp, etc.), make up a couple of short wires with spade terminals cut narrow to fit the fuse socket. If it’s a glass type fuse, (AGC type) you might need a clip lead to connect the test light’s probe end.
The test light will glow if a light is turned on, and will be off with nothing turned on in the circuit. If there’s a direct short, the test light will be fully light up. That saves blowing endless fuses, and now, you can safely find your short circuit problem.
It might be the wrong type bulb installed. Look at the end of the bulb. If your replacement is a double filament type, such as a #1157 bulb, the two end terminals can sometime hit where they shouldn’t. Other’s have offset pins for lining up the bulb, and can set the bulb too deep, shorting against the outer part. (Assuming it’s a bayonet type bulb – e.g. push in a quarter turn to set)
If it’s something else, such as a screw driven into a wire inside the wall, (And that’s not uncommon in RV’s) you can move things around, push on walls etc. while watching the test light. (Or someone else if the fuses are where you can’t see them) Push and pull on exposed wiring at light fixtures, such as bullet reading lights. Watch the test light. When it turns on, you’ve found your short circuit.
I’ve seen the screw thing more than once. The screw’s point will be a fraction of an inch from the outside aluminum skin or framework, and movement of the rig will make the screw touch ground. That happens when the screw threads dig into the wire, and is otherwise ‘’floating’’ in nonconductive wood. Over time, the ‘’live’’ screw ends up touching metal intermittently.
Since your problem started at the same time you replaced a bulb, I’d look CLOSELY at the light fixture in question before moving on.
FMCA# F355513. 1997 Safari Continental, 40 foot, 1 slide. Cat 3126B, Allison MD3060. 2000 Durango SLT 4x4 toad with a Blue Ox Aventa II and stopped with a Brake Buddy. Seen on the Road Photo album
I just thought of what it could be… if it’s a bayonet type bulb. Those have two phenolic disks at the bottom of a brass cylinder. The wire connects to a T shaped terminal. There’s a spring between the disks, and over the wire. That puts pressure on the bottom of the bulb, holding it in place when the side pins are set into place. The brass cylinder is frame ground, the wire battery positive.
Sometimes, that spring loaded wire can pop out too far when you remove the old bulb. When you put the new bulb in, the T piece gets folded over and crams the side of the socket, shorting the circuit. Remove the bulb, and all you should see is a small brass button dead center. That’s the top of the T piece. If it got pulled out and laid over, reach in with needle nose pliers and fix it.
Those 12 volt bulbs get very hot.. Then the "Base" in the socket breaks down.
This part is sold in auto parts stores and is easily replaced (Comes with a new wire too) Remove the fixture look into the socket and you will likely see the problem.. Replace the insulator and center wire with the new one from the auto store and, then replace the fuse and bulb, and you will most likely "See the light" Seeing the light is a good thing.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
Thanks everyone. With your suggestions I have narrowed it down to the light fixture; don't know yet whether it's the socket or the wiring. Bulbs are the same. Will explore further another day. For now, I have all the other lights working and no bulb in that socket.
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