We are not getting a strong flow of heat out of our rear vent in our TT. If we close the back curtain the rear of our TT freezes. On two different service checks at two different places we have been told that the distance and the way the unit is ducted causes this problem and that this is a common occurrence in Rockwood TTs. Has anyone else experienced this in a small TT? You would think that a small TT would get smoking hot throughout but it doesn't. You freeze going in the bathroom and that's where the vent is.
Some of the rigs use plastic ducting. This in some locations collapses causing a restriction in flow.
Look behind draws, behind converters and other storage locations in your particular floor plan.
Replace with the metallic dryer duct.
With a trailer this size, you should not be having this problem. You said the vent in question is in the bathroom.
I am going to assume there is not a vent in the bunk area. I would also guess that your heat ducts run thru the cabinets, not under the floor.
Take a screw driver and remove the vent in the bathroom. Usually, the duct is 3"dia, but Forest River will sometimes use 1 1/2"dia duct in the bathroom, which lets less air flow from this vent. If you have the smaller duct, it may be routed to a larger rectangle shaped vent.
Which ever duct and vent size you have, make sure the duct is connected to the vent outlet.
If the vent outlet is round, and the duct is the same size as the vent (3"), and the parts are attached good, then try to trace the duct thru the cabinets and make sure it is not kinked or bent is such a way as to reduce the air flow.
I suspect that what you probably have is the smaller duct (1 1/2") in the bathroom, with two other larger sized (3") ducted vents in the rest of the trailer (one up front, and one mid ship). If this is the case, then you probable have the larger/oversized rec. shaped vent in the bathroom. Make sure the duct is attached to the vent outlet, and not just laying in the wall space. You may also want to make some type of plate to go on the back of the vent outlet to block most of the open space, and allow only room for the duct to flow air thur. This should help force more warm air into the bathroom.
Ont the other hand, I could be completely wrong about all of this, but it's worth a look anyway.
Chuck Roder & Family
'07 Surveyor SV-235RS
'03 Chevy TrailBlazer EXT LT V8 High Springs, FL.
I had the same problem this season. culprit was some shoddy workmanship. where my duct ran from the furnace to the back of the trailer, it ran by the electric panel and the wiring 'hub' for lack of a better word was not secured, it punctured a hole in the foil duct. Glad it was in an area I could reach, as it easily could have been out of reach, fixed the hole and problem done
Stefan
2003 Chevy Silverado 1500HD, 3.73, 4x4, Crew Cab, 6.0L (loving it!)
2003 Layton lite 232 BH
the heating and AC ducking on these things is just there and the 12V fan in the furnace creates neither enough volume or force to circulate the air well, and precious little thought is given to it by the mfg's... mobile homes have always had this problem with much bigger blowers...
the vent with the least restriction will expel almost as much volume as the fan will make... restricting that vent some may help but generally just makes the heater even less efficient... poor engineering, but not at all uncommon...
one thing that may help is run a return line air duct from the coldest part of the trailer
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
No ducts at all in our trailer.... just blows out from the furnace and it's plenty warm.... though you're right the bathroom can get cold because the door is usually closed and the ceiling vent open but that doesn't really bother us.
Chuck and Stefan are dead on. Check for restrictions, connections, and breaks.
Disconnect the hose at the furnace (if you can) and put a vacuum cleaner on 'blow' into the hose.. does air come out the far end?
If all the lines are clear and connected, you'll need to balance the airflow by restricting the flow at the other heat ducts a little at a time until you get the right mix.
A 20,000 BTU furnace is pretty small for these parts (Western Canada) but should be more than enough to keep the chill off you in Florida!
We had much the same problem in the 5er. You have to remember that the main trunkline is probably not a step duct like you would have in your home. What we did, right or wrong was this. I went to a local business that made magnetic signs and purchased some of his scraps. I then cut pieces of the sign material to fit over the floor vents. We then adjusted the amount of air that came by by sliding them back and forth. It worked good for us. Now that we are in the cooling season, I just cover the entire floor vent to keep stuff from falling in them. Just a thought!
Allen
Offline
and 1 DS 
If you have the smaller duct, it may be routed to a larger rectangle shaped vent.
