Our last motor home did not have levelers and I carried four sets of the Lynx leggo blocks.
They don't weigh nearly as much as wood blocks and are compact and easy to store.
I have broken a few over the years when trying to use them on rocky or wet ground but figure that's the cost of convenience.
I still use them from time to time under a tire if the levelers have to lift a tire off the ground.
Clay (WA5NMR), Lee,(Wife) Codi, Brandi (Shelties) and Damncat (damn cat)
Full Timing in a 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N, Workhorse chassis, Honda Accord toad
admiral0647 wrote: As many have already pointed out, there are two results from using installed jacks (mechanical or hydraulic) One is to level the unit on an uneven surface and the other is to stabilize the unit when moving around inside.
Many campers level first (with blocks under the wheels) then use jacks to stabilize the already level unit. The advantage with properly installed hydraulic units is they have the power to do both in one operation (automatically).
Having said that we camped for years without permanent jacks, relying first on wooden boards and bottle jacks under the tires and frame corners, then later on Lynx blocks (think of large Legos) since they stored better and weighed less. Hoppy level
When using blocks, we also used the Hoppy Bubble Level system:
When properly installed, these will advise the amount to raise each of the lower corners.
Good luck and happy camping.
I use these "Hoppy Calibrated Levels" also. One mounted for front to rear and one mounted for side to side. The good thing about these levels is they give you a reading in INCHES how far you are off. For instance if you are 2 Inches low in front, you need to run up on 2 inches of blocks/lynx levelers, ect to get the rig level, no guessing, if the level says 2 inches, use 2 inches of blocks. If it says 1 inch, use 1 inch blocks. The Hoppy's are available at Camping World.
Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS
2002 CRV Toad
U. S. Gear Unified brake system
Retired Fire Captain, SFD
admiral0647 wrote: As many have already pointed out, there are two results from using installed jacks (mechanical or hydraulic) One is to level the unit on an uneven surface and the other is to stabilize the unit when moving around inside.
Many campers level first (with blocks under the wheels) then use jacks to stabilize the already level unit. The advantage with properly installed hydraulic units is they have the power to do both in one operation (automatically).
Having said that we camped for years without permanent jacks, relying first on wooden boards and bottle jacks under the tires and frame corners, then later on Lynx blocks (think of large Legos) since they stored better and weighed less. Hoppy level
When using blocks, we also used the Hoppy Bubble Level system:
When properly installed, these will advise the amount to raise each of the lower corners.
Good luck and happy camping.
I use these "Hoppy Calibrated Levels" also. One mounted for front to rear and one mounted for side to side. The good thing about these levels is they give you a reading in INCHES how far you are off. For instance if you are 2 Inches low in front, you need to run up on 2 inches of blocks/lynx levelers, ect to get the rig level, no guessing, if the level says 2 inches, use 2 inches of blocks. If it says 1 inch, use 1 inch blocks. The Hoppy's are available at Camping World.
I should add since I was driving a MH, I mounted one to the dash and one under the driver's window.
Also, if welding jack plates to the frame, or otherwise doing manual jack leveling, be very careful and only raise each point a little at a time.
Most if not all automatic systems level with two jacks at a time. Front or rear, left side or right side, together. This minimizes twisting the frame. Especially on longer units, twisting the frame by extensively lifting only one jack at a time can cause dire consequences, such as cracked windows/windshield, and doors that no longer fit correctly.
Good luck and happy camping...
2007 Damon Challanger 377c
2007 Toyota Yaris Dingy
2 Scotties Jim's home page
I should add since I was driving a MH, I mounted one to the dash and one under the driver's window.
Also, if welding jack plates to the frame, or otherwise doing manual jack leveling, be very careful and only raise each point a little at a time.
Most if not all automatic systems level with two jacks at a time. Front or rear, left side or right side, together. This minimizes twisting the frame. Especially on longer units, twisting the frame by extensively lifting only one jack at a time can cause dire consequences, such as cracked windows/windshield, and doors that no longer fit correctly.
Good luck and happy camping...
Thanks for the tip on twisting. It is also easier to raise the coach if you do so evenly.
2007 Dutchman Express 31 Class C
2006 Centurion Elite V C4, Air Warrior
Also, if welding jack plates to the frame, or otherwise doing manual jack leveling, be very careful and only raise each point a little at a time.
Most if not all automatic systems level with two jacks at a time. Front or rear, left side or right side, together. This minimizes twisting the frame. Especially on longer units, twisting the frame by extensively lifting only one jack at a time can cause dire consequences, such as cracked windows/windshield, and doors that no longer fit correctly.
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Good point. That is why I will probably buy the air-operated jacks, and make longer hoses so I can avoid twisting without too much moving back and forth. I am thinking of using one manual bottle jack under the frame rail at the lowest corner just to make it solid, and three of the air jacks at the other points. This might not be much quicker than the ramps we use now, but will be more solid. And way cheaper than remote control levelers.
Bill and Susan
84 Barth 30 tag powered by ht502/Thorley, Gear Vendors OD
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes
4WD Toyota toad
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