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 > gen starts and stops

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noe-place

somerset, ky

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Posted: 06/07/08 05:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Onangas 4.0K microquiet tries to start but won't. Has been garage parked in storage for several months. Usually starts but not today. Breaker light came on so I tried resetting but still no luck. Fuel tank nearly half full. Only has about 18 hours on it. Suggestions?

gunny357

North Carolina

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Posted: 06/07/08 06:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Been in storage a few months?

Did you add any fuel stablizer before storing it?

Probably a fuel system issue, gummed/varnished carburetor. Alos check for cracked deteriorated fuel lines. Another possibility would be fuel lift pump gummed up. Choke sticking?

gstanton

Oakland, MD and Tierra Verde, FL

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Posted: 06/07/08 06:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it has a "low oil" sensor, that would be one guess. Had one do that! It had oil, but the sensor said "no". Would run for approx. 30 sec and shut down. Frustrating.


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RodT82721

Pine Haven, Wyoming

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Posted: 06/08/08 11:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just went thru that same type problem. Would start then died. Check the trouble code, mine was 3-6. I had to remove the Gen Set from the MH to gain access to service it. I was planning on taking it into Cummins.

After a lot of checking I found a dirty carburetor was the culprit.

What I did - First take the air cleaner out and while attempting to start, spray a little carb-cleaner into the throat. If it starts and attempts to run, then keep spraying small amounts, just enough to keep it running while verify it is producing 120VAC. This will prove that it is a fuel problem and not the control board.

Remove the fuel line at the carb and check for good fuel while cranking, if okay then the next step is to pull the carb and clean it. There are two 10MM hex head bolts thru the air cleaner assembly that hold the carb to the manifold.

The Onan service manual says no overhaul just get a new carb.

I took mine apart. It is a very simple carb. The fuel shut-off solinoid holds the bowl on. Inside are a float with attached needle valve and the air-fuel mixture valve, (labeled as the altitude adjustment.) The air-fuel mixture adjustment was my problem, the needle valve and seat was a little dirty. I tried cleaning without removing it and then the motor would run, but was surging bad and would die under full load. So I took it off again.

To get this needle out you have to pry the plastic altitude adjustment knob (a press fit) away from the bowl enough to allow unscrewing the needle valve all the way out, its spring loaded. (Count the turns so you can return it to the same setting after cleaning.) Then spray cleaner into the all the holes and clean everything good.

After doing that it now starts immediately and runs like new. Ran it for over an hour under full load and never missed a beat.
Made my day..


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Historyteach

Quincy, WA

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Posted: 06/09/08 12:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same problem and the same fix. A relative took the carb apart and saoked all the parts in parts cleaner for about 12 hours then put it all back together an see ran like a champ. Now I put fuel stabalizer in it regularly to keep it from gumming up again.


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noe-place

somerset, ky

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Posted: 06/10/08 09:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the advice Rod. I feel like an idiot for not putting in stabilizer when I garaged it. We use it so seldom I tend to be neglectful in its maintenance. Checked wiring and fuel lines and all look ok. I'll try breaking it down ASAP. Thanks to all of you.

rws68

Murrieta, CA

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Posted: 08/05/08 07:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RodT82721 wrote:

I just went thru that same type problem. Would start then died. Check the trouble code, mine was 3-6. I had to remove the Gen Set from the MH to gain access to service it. I was planning on taking it into Cummins.

After a lot of checking I found a dirty carburetor was the culprit.

What I did - First take the air cleaner out and while attempting to start, spray a little carb-cleaner into the throat. If it starts and attempts to run, then keep spraying small amounts, just enough to keep it running while verify it is producing 120VAC. This will prove that it is a fuel problem and not the control board.

Remove the fuel line at the carb and check for good fuel while cranking, if okay then the next step is to pull the carb and clean it. There are two 10MM hex head bolts thru the air cleaner assembly that hold the carb to the manifold.

The Onan service manual says no overhaul just get a new carb.

I took mine apart. It is a very simple carb. The fuel shut-off solinoid holds the bowl on. Inside are a float with attached needle valve and the air-fuel mixture valve, (labeled as the altitude adjustment.) The air-fuel mixture adjustment was my problem, the needle valve and seat was a little dirty. I tried cleaning without removing it and then the motor would run, but was surging bad and would die under full load. So I took it off again.

To get this needle out you have to pry the plastic altitude adjustment knob (a press fit) away from the bowl enough to allow unscrewing the needle valve all the way out, its spring loaded. (Count the turns so you can return it to the same setting after cleaning.) Then spray cleaner into the all the holes and clean everything good.

After doing that it now starts immediately and runs like new. Ran it for over an hour under full load and never missed a beat.
Made my day..


How many turns does the screw take, i.e., how far do you back it out from being seated?????

Thanks,
Bob

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