pammi

Westland, MI

Senior Member

Joined: 04/04/2007

View Profile

Offline
|
As many have said before, we're behind you 10,000% & are excited to see the progress. Heck, you should do a nationwide tour to show us all the completed job!! Aromatherapy, ah yeah, the smell of campfire workds for me. But your aromatherapy would be great too.
2004 Rockwood Roo 23B (new to us)
2006 Nissan Xterra
When we camp, it's DH & me mostly. Occasionally step-daughter (16) comes, though not necessarily her choice
|
John H

Kansas City Mo.

Senior Member

Joined: 04/11/2002

View Profile

Offline
|
Spectramac, If I may I"d like to make another suggestion to you, if at all you may be planning on going back with a realitive easy to apply rubber roof? On the upper priced 5th's and Motor homes you will notice that their top roofs corners roll over that very top seam edge, and connect to the upper part of the top of the sides. An example of a fiberglassed 1973 roof that did this is Ripsnorts sold truck camper. Pictured here in class 3, in one of his earlier post You are in a position to see and design a roof as to your complete break-down & re-construction. As to appose to Jamborallye in his current post, who is stuck with what is all ready there. Somewhere there has got to be an example how the wooden roll over design trusses campers are designed to accomplish this, if this is interesting to you.
John H
|
Spectramac

Monroe, WA

Full Member

Joined: 06/11/2008

View Profile

Offline
|
I've been thinking pretty hard about how to make the roof meet the sides. I hate the way they made them originally with just a bead of sealer keeping you from disaster. I've been thinking about rounding the outer edge down to the wall, but not too sure how to make the transition and how to seal it good to the siding...
I'll admit that I'm a long way from there, so I can think about it for a while. Go ahead and brainstorm it for me guys. I'm sure that someone has the answer.
Malcolm
|
79powerwagon

S.E. Wisconsin

Senior Member

Joined: 06/30/2007

View Profile

Offline
|
We built an attached garage with an awfully flat roof onto my brother-in-laws house up here in WI (never really a good idea, but no choice in this application), and we used a seamless rubber roof. It installed quite easily, and we took the rubber over the sides about 4", gluing the whole way, then installed an aluminum strip to tack the edges down. We took great care to assure a nice transition, nice folded corners, etc., almost like we were upholstering something. It turned out great, and hasn't had a problem yet in the 10 years since it was built!
You may want to try that on your rig. Be sure to build-in a screwing cleat a few inches below your roof deck for the aluminum trim. Don't stretch the material while installing it. You also can get colored rubber (as opposed to black), so it won't look so hokey.
Keep up the great work!
Eric
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
|
Spectramac

Monroe, WA

Full Member

Joined: 06/11/2008

View Profile

Offline
|
Finally got some direction on where to go with this rear floor area.

I started cutting, giving a stair step effect as I went down through the 3 layers so no seams will line up and be a weak spot.

Now I'll do the same across the back and the other side. The hard part is cutting out the first piece of 1/2 inch plywood for the bottom. The 2x2s and top sheet should be pretty easy.
|
|
|
ron.dittmer

Near Chicago

Senior Member

Joined: 02/26/2007

View Profile

Offline
|
Are you sure your approach is easier than replacing 100% of the floor? Or is there a lot of stuff under the RV mounted to the underside of the floor?
About the roof. I know you mentioned doing some of this, but I'll list my overlapping thoughts.
1) Crown it with 2x6's cut with arches.
2) Have rounded edges along the two sides and back. The 2x6's should help there.
3) Use thin sheet stock fiberglass for the finish roofing material, and roll it over the rounded edges.
4) Have the fiberglass overlap the siding.
5) Use caulk and trim to seal and finish it off.
This way, water could never get in the walls where the roof meets the sides and back. Maybe the same principle could be applied to the front.
Do something similar to this. It is difficult to see with the color changes, but in the picture, the white fiberglass roof rolls over a rounded edge to the rain cutter and awning. The fiberglass is painted right at the point of roll-over, but it's the same sheet of material.
* This post was
edited 09/16/08 12:55pm by ron.dittmer *
Bought new in June 2007, Phoenix Cruiser-2350
Fits inside our garage.
Dingy towing a red Toyota MR2 Spyder
See The Inside by clicking on "View Profile" and scroll down
|
Spectramac

Monroe, WA

Full Member

Joined: 06/11/2008

View Profile

Offline
|
I'm not sure if it's easier or not, but that's how I've been doing it so far, so no sense doing it different now. The upper ply will get replaced but the lower stuff is still in pretty good shape away from the edges. I'm going to add some extra 2x2s where needed also.
I got the new lower ply cut and it fits!

Oh yeah, I'm liking that roof!
* This post was
edited 09/16/08 08:44pm by Spectramac *
|
Spectramac

Monroe, WA

Full Member

Joined: 06/11/2008

View Profile

Offline
|
I got the most of the left side pieced out. I added an extra 2x under the tub area and a couple in the front for strength.

Then I figured I better get over to the other side. It wasn't near as bad, but I may as well get rid of the rotten edge.

That's more like it.

Now to find another good long piece of 1/2 inch ply...
|
Spectramac

Monroe, WA

Full Member

Joined: 06/11/2008

View Profile

Offline
|
Ok, that piece is cut.

Then I got a bunch of the left side glued and stapled together.
|
Spectramac

Monroe, WA

Full Member

Joined: 06/11/2008

View Profile

Offline
|
Got up to a downpour of dew this morning, so it's all covered up waiting for some sun to peek out. Hopefully I can get a little time in on it tonight.
|
|
|