traywolf

PA

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Joined: 05/06/2004

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I called the RV place, and they reccommend replacing the entire tire and rims when the tires are due.
My Pop up is around 6 years old, and the tires are original, so they have never been touched.
What do you all think I should do? Do the rims lose their seal on first replacement?
He quoted me $125 each per set.
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Fire Instructor

Upstate (Albany) NY Area

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Of COURSE they suggested replacing both the tire and the rim... that's the way that they sell them at an RV dealer. Talk to the manager at a reputable tire store. They can get your tires, and do an inspection on the rims to tell you if they REALLY need replacement.
It's different if you have a blow-out at high speed... the lighter-weight rims on a PUP usually get to chewed-up to re-use. After a high-speed blow-out, you usually have to replace the rim.
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Mark Heisler

Viking,Alberta Canada

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do you think you need tires? I had a 8 year old fifth wheel I never replace the tire. and the people that owned it know still run then tires. if rv tire are taken care of they should last a long time. what I mine if they are balance and proply inflated and cover when not in use.do you replace your car tires every 6 year? it all depends on the wear and the conations of the rubber.that just my thought.Take it to a tire shop and ask them one you TRUST.
mark
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He Ruide

Cincinnati Ohio

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Joined: 08/30/2006

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Traywolf, I wonder why you were not told to replace the tire, rims, brakes, axle, springs, etc. Did I miss anything?
I just checked and I have a 10 year warranty on my rims. That warranty applies as long as I don't over load it or have any flats or accidents.
So if you have not had any wheel problems just go ahead and replace the tires.
Take care.
Ruide
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mike4947

N. Syracuse, NY

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If the wheels show any rust staining near the bead area then figure you'll need new rims. We've found rust will show if it's attacked the bead seat bad enough to prevent new tires from sealing.
BUT do replace the valve stems as well as the tires. Even the "metal high pressure" valve stems have a rubber seal that dry rots as fast if not faster than the tires.
As for the poster with the tires living 8 years, yes some do, the vast majority do NOT. Trailer tires sit the vast majority of their lives and that causes localized degrading of the chemicals that keep rubber soft. Where as our TV tires move on a regular basis keeping the chemicals and stresses in "motion".
When checking tires for the dreaded spiderweb cracks that are dry rot in progress, check between the treads in the grooves. It can show up there and cause tire failure with the sidewalls still looking pristine.
And a lesson I learned the hard way, twice, getting stranded by having a spare go flat soon after replacing a flat(I'm a slow learner) is to replace the spare even if it's never touched the ground. Tires degrade just as fast hanging on the spare tire holder as they can on the ground.
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Wildcat63

MN

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I have done both, replaced the entire tire/rim set and then i had one mounted and balanced on the old rim. Costwise they were within a few dollars of each other. I like the idea about getting the tires balanced but to be honest I didn't realize any differences.
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mike4947

N. Syracuse, NY

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Thanks Cat for jogging my memory. Talking about balancing. In our small wheels they are manufactured differently than car/truck rims in that the center hole in most cases is NOT concentric with the bead/lug nut pattern. So balancing them using the standard balancer can actually cause more of an imbalance than if you did nothing. Trailer tires/wheels should be balanced on the trailer; or if using a machine have the tire/wheel mounted on what's called a lug centric adapter that uses the lug holes to mount the combo on the balancer.
As a note the smaller diameter the tire/wheel combination the less effect out of balance/balancing will have on the tire.
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in_da_keys

Memphis Tn

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If you got 6 years, you got your moneys worth. Mine where 3 years old, went to Florida first week of May when we got there one of my had blistered. Replaced both of them, I didn't replace the spare, it has had a tire cover on it its whole life, no more long trips this year, but I will replace it soon.
Funny thing I noticed the one that blistered had some cracks in the sidewall the night before when I was checking the air pressure, it was the tire that gets the least amount of direct sunlight,it faces north in the driveway. So I thought it wouldn't be a problem, it made it, but I will never test my luck like that again.
As far as the 5th wheel tires going 8 or more years, those are much bigger tires and I dont think they get as hot, those little 12 inch tires at 65 mph get real hot and I would think that would shorten their life.
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traywolf

PA

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Thanks for the responses.
Yes, I do need tires, they have considerable cracking in the sidewalls. Tread still looks new but the danger is still there with the dryrot cracks.
I checked out that new web site, and they quote around $70 each plus mounting for Goodyear marathon tires. tirerack.com I think?
I switched the worst of the two with the spare which has no cracking, but the other one has some cracks so I guess it's time to spend $250 for all three.
By the way, the dealer is a small family outfit who never is pushy and prices are pretty reasonable. They are really hurting now though with the dropoff in sales.
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PopUpTom

Subject to Change, TN for now

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I always balance my wheels after mounting, due to the amount of weight I've seen them add to the rim to get it balanced. I just had my spare replaced and mounting and balance with high pressure valve stem was only $8. Most places have the 4 and 5 "lug-centric" mounting plates to mount the wheels for correct balancing.
I wouldn't think you would feel an out of balance wheel on the camper. That dosen't mean you can ignore it.
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