Can it be peeled back and a soft spot be repaired or do you have to cut it out and repatch the area?
Any advice on roof repair or reapplying the rubber roof, Joint leveling on the new wood? I just returned from Gulf shores and have another vacation shortly. It will probally be after the next vacation before I start any work on it but I would like to get my supplies ready. I had a leak in the front end and interior damage was limited to the ceiling in the front cabinets. I drilled a couple of hole and found the outside roof to be paper thin. I still have a lot of moisture in area. After I remove the ceiling will it dry out or do I need to do something else? What about insulation? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks Mike
04 suburban 1500
00 silverado 1500
05 jayco 27bh Couldn't get rig to post,so here is my burgler alarm!!
Mike, I have done ceiling repair, albeit from the inside, as it was a major rebuild. To me, depending on where the soft spot is, it may be easier to cut out and replace. Your roof membrane should not be glued down in the middle, only on the edges so can be easy. You are right the material is very thin luan board or similar. You will need to replace any wet insulation with new, replace the cut out piece of roof and then put on an oversize piece of membrane. I think that you would want to only glue the new membrane to the exisiting membrane and not the roof itself. Afterwards you can trim out with eternabond tape to finalize the seal.
This is very topline and I am sure that others here will have more detailed and better advice. But if it was me this is how I think I would tackle it... Good luck!
Stefan
2003 Chevy Silverado 1500HD, 3.73, 4x4, Crew Cab, 6.0L (loving it!)
2003 Layton lite 232 BH
Some manufacturers glue only the edges down (floating roof) ,some (like Jayco) places glue on the entire roof. If you have to peel the membrane off of a glued base, it should be replaced, because the act of peeling it off will weaken and distort the roof material so that it shouldn't be re-used.
Thanks for the info. The place is in the front corner were the aluminum siding rolls up on the roof. When I found the damage in the cabinet I removed the lap sealant on the seam were the aluminum and the rubber meet. There was a screw broke under the head and the moulding was bent at the screw Looked over tightened from the factory to me. Of course was out of warranty now. I finally got the courage to drill into the interior ceiling in the cabinet and verified the outer roof was damaged too. I may be better to cut it out I just had a thought if it could be peeled back and re installed it would be less noticable. Anyhow Thanks Mike
I called 2 of the local rv dealers to see if they had any extra rubber roof and how I could buy it. Both frowned on the ideal of patching it. One suggested that I try to roll back the rubber and do the repair and the other said if I patched It would be a good place for a leak, because you couldn't get it back the way it was by patching. If I had to patch wouldn't eternabond handle the seams with no worries? Both said their normal procedure was to replace the whole roof. And both had extra rubber roof from other jobs to sale. Any thoughts? Mike
I just did this same job a week ago. My entire roof was glued to the sheathing but the area needing the patch had separated due to the moisture. I ended up cutting out a 40" x 30" piece of OSB, replaced it with plywood (much prefer this over OSB for both roof and floor sheathing), reinstalled the piece of rubber roof I cut out and covered all seams with eternabond. Though I haven't had it in rain yet it looks pretty tight to me.
Replacing the entire roof seemed a bit of a waste to me.
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