mitchkim

north carolina

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just took the tt out for the first time this weekend
i had no hot water pressure in my lines
all i could get was a trickle of hot water
heater is working fine
if i turned the valve on the bypass line to bypass the hot water heater i got good pressure
so i took the line off at the tank where the hot water comes out
noting is coming out of the tank there
then i took a little like check valve out of the line and put in back together and it works like it should
put the valve back in and no pressure
what is this valve and what is its purpose
why did it all of a sudden keep the pressure from going through the line
can i run my heater with it removed
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LAdams

Northern Illinois

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The check valve is part of your bypass system... A lot of manufacturers use a single valve system with check valve rather than using a 3 valve system... These check valves are prone to failure...
No you won't hurt your system by removing it but you'll either have to replace it or revamp your bypass system before winterizing again...
Les
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Catfishman

North Texas

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>>then i took a little like check valve out of the line and put in back together and it works like it should<<
Your bypass system obviously requires that two valves be positioned correctly. One will be OFF and the other will be ON. Choose the position that will allow flow of water INTO the tank to be heated.
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nny12972

NY

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That "little check valve" on your CW line is there to save your water system......if you fire up the HW without it, the expanding HW can over-pressure the water lines and blow them....particularly with recent installation of crimp-fit water lines.
J
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LAdams

Northern Illinois

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The check valve should be in the hot water line... The check valve is there to prevent backflow into the water heater when the system is set to bypass... Don't think anything is going to blow up if it's not there and the valve(s) are positioned properly...
Les
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heavyputer

Ontario, Canada

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Sounds to me like you have the check valve installed backwards. Flowing in the wrong direction. JMHO
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clintbonnie

Kent, Wa. USA

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Had the same thing happen to my American Standard tank a couple of weeks ago, just a very slow dribbling. I also removed and check the check valve which seemed OK..
With the valve removed, i then looked down the pipe into the tank and found white plastic blocking the pipe, just inside the tank.. Pushed lightly on the plastic and it broken away.. I then put everything back to together and it works great..It is kinda weird but I am keeping a eye on the situation. But after our 4 day outing this past weekend, it seems to be working normally..
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nny12972

NY

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I beg to differ, MOD.....According to SHURFLO C/S, AND as is very clearly illustrated in their installation instructions, "the little check valve" is installed protecting the pump and cold water side of the FW system (NOT the HW side)....AND, without that check valve, if the HW tank is full before it's fired up, it can certainly blow o-rings in pumps and sloppy PEC connections (particularly in cooler weather, when PEC contracts and connections aren't as tight)......seen it many times....
J
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clintbonnie

Kent, Wa. USA

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nny12972.. there is also a check valve in the "hot water" side on the outlet of the hot side of the hotwater tank on some RV's. My Arctic Fox is this way.. I believe it there just to eliminate a manual valve during winter storage when adding rv anti-freeze..
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LAdams

Northern Illinois

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Like I said - it depends on the layout of the Bypass and if it's a single valve or double valve...
Take a look at the 1st and 4th picture in step 3 of this link and you'll see the bypass in the HOT WATER SIDE of the heater... I have never had one in the cold water side but then I usually change mine over to a 3 valve system which I prefer as the check valves are prone to failure...
http://www.parkmodelhomes.ca/Downloads/rv_winterization.pdf
Les
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