Padlin wrote: Thanks all, sounds like any of the ranges will work.
Rollincool: I just got done adding a bigger cooler so I now have 2, I like the idea of stareing at a guage waiting for the tranny to go up in smoke, that's why I want to add one.
I can't speak for the GM trannies, but for the Ford 4R100 you need the gauge starting at 100 and not 140 since it might never move for almost 6 mos of the year. The reason for a tranny gauge is to establish baselines and typical operating parameters to judge if something isn't right when things change a lot. It's really a plus and great addition for the problem prone Ford 4R100 tranny.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
NEVER put the sending unit in the test port on a 4l60e!!! As you push on the gas peddle, the line pressure in the trans goes up. I have had the line pressure deform and crack the end of the sending unit. (it is not solid like I thought) Trans fluid began pouring from where the wires go into the sending unit. This can empty a transmission in a matter of miles! I noticed smoke(trans fluid on the exhaust pipes) and stopped. (also a fire hazard!) PLEASE, everyone remove the sending unit from the test port in your transmission!!! I will try to post pictures this weekend.
Quote: I could never understand gauges anyway. What are going to do, stare at the temp going up and worry about it? You won't if it stays nice and cool with a big cooler. Especially a 4L60E in OD.
Forget the gauge, get a nice cooler. Or if you like to watch gauges, get the cooler and a gauge.
By far the worst advice I have read on the forum today!! The number one killer to a auto trans is heat, call any trans shop that has been in business more than a week and ask them what kills more auto trans than anything else and see what they say. Without a adequate gauge how do you know what the trans temp is? Just installing a larger cooler is a "hope so " fix as you still have no idea what the actual temp in the trans is. Let me say at least on the Fords, the factory trans gauge is worthless and nothing more than a fancy idiot light. If your factory gauge doesn't have mumerical indicators on the gauge get a good aftermarket gauge. I prefer Isspro myself. My pull over temp is 210 degrees, if I see 210 I will pull over as soon as I can and let the truck idle at 1200 rpm until temps cool down. Thankfully I have never had to do this. I also have a 6.0 cooler installed in my 7.3 truck. It is the largest trans cooler I have ever seen. Normal trans temps run between 80-100 over ambient, the lower when unloaded and the higher when towing. If you are seeing sustained temps over 200 I would be looking for more cooling. Short durations of 220+ are okay, like when climbing a hill, as long as the temps cool down going down the backside, but anything sustained above 200 is calling for more cooling. Just saying getting a bigger cooler is enough and all your problems are solved is crazy!!!! There are countless other mechanical problems that can cause a trans to overheat. With the cost of a auto trans rebuild going for $2,000+ I would rather be able to see the temps climbing and prevent a failure than to just keep going until it is to late and you just destroyed your trans and vacation. I can't talk about placement of the sensor but I will say the myth about the test port not seeing actual trans temps because they aren't in the flow is totally false, at least I know it is on Fords. I have had a sensor on the hot line where it exits the trans going to the cooler and in the test port and the temps were always within 5 degrees of each other. The sensor port has two less connection points so far less chance of a leak so I always recommend the test port for the sensor. You may want to check this on a chevy truck forum. I just had to reply to the statement of a trans gauge being a waste of time and money!!
As a matter of fact I have always said, and always will, any auto trans being used to tow anything more than a lawn mower should have a trans temp gauge, period. Pay a little now or a lot later it's your choice,
NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 PSD,CC, DRW
4:10's, BTM Muffler, Isspro Gauges,
Coolant Filter,CCV Mod
FTVB , Ford AIS
6.0 Cooler,SCT2 W/DP's 40 tow & 80 econo,Zoodad mod
2005 Keystone Hornet 30BHSS
Reese Dual Cam
Family of 4 saved by Grace!!! MY TRUCK OUR TRAILER
smkettner wrote: Pull over at 210? If there was a reason to be running warm I would not pull over even at 260 if I even had a gauge.
....????????
Not sure what you are saying here. Since you don't have a temp gauge you will never know prior to your trans giving up the ghost!! If you are okay with that teriffic that is your choice. Some of us would rather see the temps increasing and be proactive before we expierence a failure. It 's your TV, Your Vacation and Your Credit Card do so as you please, just trying to give good advice here, not all will agree, that's okay with me.
I've never had to pull over. 215 for short periods at the end of a long climb doesn't bother me. After all, it's still in the "Green" on my Banks Gauge. I did hit the yellow once (230), but I was climbing a 10% grade at a slow speed due to a bus a no passing lane. After I pulled over, and removed the grill insert that bolcks ~50% airflow, it went back to a more normal temp.
I do like the Banks gauge because you can see the rough temp (due to color coding) out of the corner of your eye). It has temps too, but if you see the needle in the green, no reason to look closer. Also, 200 is right at the top, so that also makes it easy to know the temp without actually looking.
Only downside is it starts at 140, and most of the time it doesn't get that warm.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, 230,000+ miles
Had: Weekend Warrior 41' FSW (still looking for its replacement)
"Most ATF can withstand normal operating temperatures of around 200 degrees F for tens of thousands of miles. But if the temperature of the fluid rises above 220 degrees F the fluid starts to break down quickly. Above 300 degrees, fluid life is measured in hundreds, not thousands of miles. And above 400 degrees, the fluid can self-destruct in 20 to 30 minutes!"
I know there are other data sources out there - this just happened to be the first one I found.
and, yes, I have aftermarket gauges on my truck, including tranny temp.
'83 Tioga 27' Ford E-350 460
'97 Dodge 2500 CTD 4x4 in need of a TC
couple of ratty old well-loved Artic Cat sleds that the kids just can't hurt any further
Above 300 degrees, fluid life is measured in hundreds, not thousands of miles.
OK so it gets real close to 300 for the last mile as you crest the hill. By the time most people do that 100 times it is time to change the fluid and all is good again.
For those with gauges, how many times each year do you really pull over to let the transmission cool?
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