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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > There must be an art to MOUNTAIN DRIVING

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mark293

NORTH OF HOUSTON

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Posted: 06/20/08 12:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Judging from the price I paid for the radiator cleaning, Im sure it was a flush.

Thanks for the advice on Loveland pass, Ill check it out. About a year ago i got under the engine and sprayed Simple Green every where I could. I was suprised at all the dirt that came out. I let the Cat dealer clean it because I thought he would do a better job. i guess not.

So heres my question. On a 6 % grade ( uphill) do I need to keep her at 2k rpm in third or go try fourth gear at around 2300 to 2400 rpms. in order to go fast, I have to be in a taller gear. in order to be near my torque peak I have to slow down. ???????????


2004 WINNIE JOURNEY 36G, 330 CAT, TANDEM TOW DOLLY, 2008 LIFTED YAMAHA DRIVE GOLF CART.'07 Toyota Yaris (43 MPG) Yaris

texasbaskets

Frisco, TX

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Posted: 06/20/08 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On a long climb, I stay in a gear that will allow me to accelerate. If you're in economy mode, turn that off. You may have to feather the fuel feed to get into a lower gear and back off enough to keep it there. As far as engine size, my little 5.9 ISB pulled a 5,000 toad up and down a lot of tough climbs in NM and did very nicely. Not fast, but methodical if you know what I mean.

Coming down, you should be in the same gear as going up. With experience, you will know at which speeds your tranny downshifts with the engine brake on. If you have to, use the service brakes to get you down to the right gear but don't ride 'em. Starting slow and coming up a tad is better than starting fast and going down a bunch.

Good luck..


Michael, Kay, Hans (our Mini-Schnauzer co-pilot) and Prissy (Hans' Malti-Poo co-pilot)
'05 Coachmen SportsCoach SE 372DS a.k.a. "Mana's Cabana"



horizon451

Henderson, NV

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Posted: 06/20/08 02:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have basically the same coach and have not had any power problems. The only time I had a heat rise issue was climbing a 6+% grade (Baker grade in CA) was on a hot day. Pulling my toad. Outside temp was 115. As I started the climb, in 6th and as the engine temp started to climb I reduced speed and shifted to 5th. I finally wound up in 4th holding about 2200 rpm. Engine temp stabilized easily. Basically my engine temp gage dictated what gear I was in and ultimately my speed. With more experience you will get the hang of it.


'02 Itasca Horizon 36LD
'02 Jeep GC toad


JUrban

Delaware

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Posted: 06/20/08 02:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mark, with that engine trans combination and weights you should have been able to play in the mountains without an issue.

The first thing you need to check is the outside and inside fins (front and back) on your radiator. A good cleaning procedure is one quart Simple Green, 3 qt HOT water in a bug sprayer. With the engine warmed up, spray the radiator thoroughly from both sides. You need to get under or through the bedroom to get the front well. Let sit for 15-30 minutes and then wash out thoroughly from front and rear with a hose. When the runoff is CLEAR, it's clean. May need to repeat 2-6 times, but if you're still getting gunk out with the hose it isn't clean.

As far as driving, you aren't looking for max torque, you want max airflow. On your CAT it should be running between 2000 and 2200. Make sure the MODE light on the trans is not illuminated, and do not use the cruise control. Downshift with the arrows to maintain rpm and take the speed you get. You can watch the engine temp on the MMDC as well as the dash gage.

Going down, slow it down before you go over the top, put the PAC/Engine brake on and put it in the lowest gear you used to climb. Let the RPM climb to 2200 or a bit more and stab the service brakes to bring speed down. Do not pump them or ride them down. Piece of cake.

John


2008 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40' QSP
2006 Chevrolet Colorado Toad
BlueOx Aventa LX Tow Bar
SMI Air Force One toad brake
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mopargo

Yakima, WA 98901

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Posted: 06/20/08 02:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2000 journey with the 5.9 Cummins, I began experiencing heat problems such as your when climbing hills in Washington state. I discovered that the blow-by tube from the crankcase was positioned by the lower right corner in front of the radiator and that the radiator was 2/3 plugged. I soaked the radiator on both sides with simple green and washed it with a garden hose from the back until it was clean, it took about four hours that time. No more heat problems and you will need to reroute the blow-by.


Chuck and Mary Pierson
2000 Winnebago Journey 36L
with Eagle Vision toad
FMCA F347609
The Journey Has Begun

Johng

Gilbert, AZ, USA

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Posted: 06/20/08 03:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Everyone's advice is very good, I would only add to also watch the turbo boost, try to keep it between 20 and 30, if that happens your RPMs are going be in the right place for the climb. Let the Cat do the work, keep your foot out of it and remember you are considerably heavier than the gassers.

Happy RVing


John and Judy
US Air Force - Retired
05 Beaver Santiam 40DST
08 Malibu Toad/Brake Buddy


polly sue

Colorado

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Posted: 06/20/08 03:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As a Coloradan with a 38' DP with Cat 350 and Allison 6, I want to thank everyone for this welcome advice! We've mostly figured out these tactics, but I've learned more from this thread. Thanks!

2puttchuck

Bay Area

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Posted: 06/20/08 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mopargo wrote:

I have a 2000 journey with the 5.9 Cummins, I began experiencing heat problems such as your when climbing hills in Washington state. I discovered that the blow-by tube from the crankcase was positioned by the lower right corner in front of the radiator and that the radiator was 2/3 plugged. I soaked the radiator on both sides with simple green and washed it with a garden hose from the back until it was clean, it took about four hours that time. No more heat problems and you will need to reroute the blow-by.


I had the same problem with my 2002. Since the fix, I've never had another overheating problem.

Look hard at this, there's no way you should have been overheating.


Chuck
2002 Winnebago Journey
Cummins ISB 5.9L 300HP

2005 Acura MDX
1997 Jeep Wrangler


Daveinet

il

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Posted: 06/20/08 04:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mark293 wrote:

The worst part was getting passed by an older gas tandem axle class a that I know did not have the hp or torque that I have.
don't be too sure.


Dave

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mark293

NORTH OF HOUSTON

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Posted: 06/20/08 04:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You guys are the best. Thanks for all your responses. Looks like I have a little house cleaning to do when I return. We just got back trying the 6 % grade leaving Breck heading east on I-70 just to see how steep it was in the toad. With the radiator issue looming, I think Ill just have the wife drive the toad up the pass and hook up later ( it was looooooong). Thanks to you guys I hope to have all my heating issues resolved in a few days. HAPPY TRAILS!

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