Ramblin' Ralph

All around California

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Joined: 10/27/2005

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For the 2-1/2 years I've had my used Lance truck camper I've always gotten a couple of cups of grey water when I take off the dump cap. Valve must not have been shutting off completely.
Got tired of always putting a bucket under the dump pipe to catch the stuff when I took the cap off. Decided to replace the grey valve (1-1/2" Valterra/Bladex). Baaaad move!
Now I get leaking from the bottom of the valve with anything in the grey tank! I took the valve out and tried replacing it carefully (so the rubber seals remain in place) a couple of times. Still got the problem. Both sides of the piping around the valve are fixed PVC, so it's not easy to insert the valve. Had to use one hand to pull on one section of PVC to widen the gap and the other to insert the valve. FYI, all 4 bolts are tightened well.
Now it appears I'll have to get in line at a RV repair place. Was hoping to get on the road next Monday, but looks like that's out. 
Any suggestions?
Ralph
2006 GMC 2500HD, XCab, SB, 6.0L w/2001 Lance 845
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justcuz

Canada

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Joined: 12/23/2007

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take it apart again...
and put vaseline on all the rubber seals
also make sure that one of the seals did not stay on the plastic PVC
plumbing pipes
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Polishnurse

Schodack, NY

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You might be better using some water proof grease, Home Depot or Lowe's, small tube. Vaseline can and does effect the rubber O Rings over time, might not effect it this generation, but your offspring my have have problems. Bill
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gillguy

Valdosta, GA

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If it was me I wouldn't be putting a Valterra valve back on. I'd use a Thetford.
I know they are hard to find at an RV shop, but they cost more and most people want to get by as cheap as possible, so do I, but not when it comes to replacing dump valves. Some are a real PITA!!! to replace.
Hope you get it fixed soon.
Good luck
Bobby (USAF Retired)
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msd928

Homestead, Florida

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You mentioned that the screws were all tight. I have just replaced the grey and black valves on my 77 Shasta with new Valteras and contrary to some of the comments I read, they work fine. However, I had a leak as soon as I replaced them, took them off and found that the seal wasn't seating as I pushed it in place (just as you said, hard to slip the valve in when the pipes won't give). I got the seal finally and still had a leak, but a differnt location. It turned out that i tightened all 4 screws far too much and was cracking the frame of the valve causing pressure to come off the seal. I had to put washers in since I cracked it, but once I loosened the screws (tight enough to hold but not over tight)the leak was gone as the reduced pressure was allowing the seal to seat. Apparently you need them tight enough to hold, but not too tight or you break the seal. Hope that made sense.
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dbbls

Missouri

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msd928 is right. The bolts can be too tight.
1999 F250 Superduty, V10 with Banks Power Pack
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Ramblin' Ralph

All around California

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Thanks for the tips. I'm giving it another try tomorrow a.m. when it's cool. 100+ here in Napa, CA this afternoon. Too hot for RV repair. 
I wonder if it's feasible to "glue" the seals in place into the valve body so they don't come out when pushing the valve between the 2 fixed PVC pieces?
If I can't get it done, I have a Tuesday appt at a RV repair place. Would like to get on the road sooner, however.
Not-a-plumber Ralph
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Southwind85

Where I Park

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Ramblin' Ralph wrote: Had to use one hand to pull on one section of PVC to widen the gap and the other to insert the valve.
Take it apart again and carefully make sure the valve seal doesn't get moved on the valve when sliding it up between the fixed PVC pipes. If it moves, you're asking for a leak if the seal gets pinched or sets wrong when you tighten the bolts. A little water or silicone spray on the rubber seals go a long way in making it slide into place easily. Take your time and don't let it bind up on either side of the valve as you're putting it in place.
The Good Life
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lfeather

Titusville, FL

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When I installed a new black valve, I cut to size two flat pieces of thin plastic sheets (like document protectors), one on each side of the new valve while sliding it into position. Once I got it into the correct position, I pulled out the plastic and put the screws in. The plastic provides a smooth surface for the new valve and prevents the valve seals from rolling or becoming ajard somehow during installation. You can also spray some soapy water on the plastic for lubrication. The valve will sort of settle into place once the plastic is removed. I also had to loosen the grey valve which helped give me more clearance to jockey it into place. Loosening the other valve (if yours are combined on same plumping like most) will also relieve any stress/binding in the plumping that may be caused by slightly different configurations than what was originally installed. This could cause misalignment and leaks. Good luck.
* This post was
edited 06/20/08 07:36pm by lfeather *
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Ramblin' Ralph

All around California

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RV.Net comes through again! Using lfeather's "thin plastic sheet" technique I was able to get the valve in w/o the seals moving the first try. Had to use new seals as the previously installed new ones were mangled a bit. Thanks for all the tips and especially to lfeather.
Now I can hit the road tomorrow as planned. 
I rather ramble than plumb Ralph
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