Eric&Lisa
Scappoose, OR
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Joined: 07/11/2006
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I decided to install a pressure / expansion tank in my Lance. I bought the $35 Home Depot tank which fits perfectly under the sink. I have yet to mount it and hook it up though.
I recall reading on a different thread that someone else set the pre-charge on their pressure tank to 20 PSI. I looked at the Sure-flow pump under the sink and the label indicates 45 PSI.
On my home well water system, I recall the plumber telling me to set my pressure tank 2 PSI below the cut off for the well pump.
So, what should I set the pre-charge on this tank to? Too much and it won't provide any benefit (no or little water will ever go into the tank). Too little and it will over stretch the internal tank diaphragm - possibly causing it to rupture.
Thanks,
-Eric
Eric & Lisa - Oregon
'97 Silverado K2500, Torklifts, Airbags, anti-sway bar
'03 Lance model 1030, generator, solar,
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Matthew_B
The boonies near Dallas, Oregon
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Joined: 08/18/2005
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I would start by lowering the pressure in the bladder to 15 PSI.
Put a clip on type tire pressure gauge on the schrader valve of the pressure tank. The air pressure will equal the water pressure until 15 PSI. Run the pump until it shuts off. The pressure gauge will read the cut out pressure. Open a faucet and let it run until the pump cuts back in. The pressure where the pump starts back up is the cut in pressure. Many recommend that the precharge be adjusted to 2 PSI below the cut in - that's what I did. Make sure to let all water pressure out when adjusting the precharge.
Setting the precharge significantly below the cut in will increase the total water stored, but it also reduces the amount of water stored between cut in and cut out.
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA (above the fog & below the snow)
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I used the same method described by Matthew_B. I think I set my tank (Home Depot) at about 2 PSI below the pump cut in.
Do a search , in the TC Forum, on "accumulators" or "expansion tanks". You will get more information for your install.
Wayne
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bcbigfoot
Armstrong BC
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Joined: 02/12/2006
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Agree with Reddog 2 psi below pump cut in, so if the pump cuts out at 45psi and cuts in at a low of 30 psi set accumulator air psi at 28.
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nowgrn4
Tampa,Fl.
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Joined: 06/21/2007
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With my tank(5 gal water heater expansion tank)fully pressurized and pump cycled off.I get 33 seconds of full water pressure from tank before pump switches on.The PSI reading on full tank is 58 PSI.I tried different PSI's and this was the best for my pump/tank combo.Good luck.
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA (above the fog & below the snow)
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nowgrn4 wrote:With my tank(5 gal water heater expansion tank)fully pressurized and pump cycled off.I get 33 seconds of full water pressure from tank before pump switches on.The PSI reading on full tank is 58 PSI.I tried different PSI's and this was the best for my pump/tank combo.Good luck.
I think you are after the number of gallons, not so much the amount of time before the pump kicks in. They both do go hand in hand.
I would have thought your pump would have been 20 to 30 PSI. You must have a pretty high pressure pump.
Wayne
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Eric&Lisa
Scappoose, OR
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Joined: 07/11/2006
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I ended up setting the tank for 20 PSI. It may or may not have been an exact science, but it sure does work fine. I get about 40 seconds of water on the sink faucet before the pump kicks in.
The biggest improvement is not getting the pulsing of the water as the pump cycled on/off when a faucet was partially open. This will help save water, especially showers, as I usually spent half my alloted shower water trying to get the darn thing adjusted!
Thanks,
-Eric
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nowgrn4
Tampa,Fl.
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58 PSI is with pump on and tank pressurized.Below 35 PSI my pump starts as soon as you open a faucet.On a boondocking thread I read where one gentleman used a plastic bucket to collect the water he used getting his shower temperature correct.He then used this water later to flush.
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA (above the fog & below the snow)
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Eric&Lisa wrote:I ended up setting the tank for 20 PSI. It may or may not have been an exact science, but it sure does work fine. I get about 40 seconds of water on the sink faucet before the pump kicks in.
The biggest improvement is not getting the pulsing of the water as the pump cycled on/off when a faucet was partially open. This will help save water, especially showers, as I usually spent half my alloted shower water trying to get the darn thing adjusted!
Thanks,
-Eric
I have discovered on my shower adjustment, I turn the hot knob one full turn, and the cold knob 1/2 turn. I then spray the water on my feet, to allow the warm water in the wand and make sure I have it right. I use less water to warm the wand due to the water heater being right below the faucet, about 2 to 3 feet.
If I were to change the water temp in the water heater tank, I would have to readjust the faucets. So far, no need to change the water temp.
Wayne
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Matthew_B
The boonies near Dallas, Oregon
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Eric&Lisa wrote:The biggest improvement is not getting the pulsing of the water as the pump cycled on/off when a faucet was partially open. This will help save water, especially showers, as I usually spent half my alloted shower water trying to get the darn thing adjusted!
DW thought I was a little off when I insisted that one of the very first mods was to add an accumulator. That was until the very first time she turned the faucet on and now she's sold on the idea too.
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