Your best bet is to use a small bullseye type level in the FRIDGE, this is the most critcal item that MUST be level when parked and running.
I would suggest getting several stick on levels, level the trailer using the bulls eye in the fridge. Once level place the stick on levels, one on the front and on on the side of the TT.
DO NOT rely on doors, cabinets, floor since the fridge cabinet may not be fully level with the rest of the TT.
Also the frame has a natural bow which flattens out some when loaded, don't rely on the floor since you can move level around and get different measurements that don't aggree.
If you start looking at different surfaces in your trailer the first thing you will notice is nothing is level with anything else. I have a digital 2'level and checked the floor, the frig, the shower, the counters. They are all pretty close, but not perfect, and that`s to be expected considering how they`re slapped together and bounced down the road. I used the frig as my main concern, then I biased my overall level to the counter tops being as flat as possible. I figured having fluids run to the back of the counter and down the wall was not desirable. The book on the frig doesn`t even give a max slope figure, so I thought it probably isn`t as important as once thought. It only says level enough for comfortable living and that`s a matter of opinion. The counter got my overriding vote on my trailer and I put the stick on levels according to that.
The other part of the learning curve for me was the realization that after about 4 lines of front to back off level, I couldn`t bring the tongue down far enough with the foot on the jack. I had to block it up and remove the foot and let it rest on a block of wood to get it low enough. Any more than 5 lines and I`ll need to raise both axles to get enough clearance and after unhitching isn`t the time to realize that. Aaaaaaargh! That`s the only time so far I wished for a power jack.
"It`s not important that you know all the answers, it`s only important to know where to get all the answers" Arone Kleamyck
"...An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." Col. Jeff Cooper
Sunset Creek 298 BH
Gdetrailer wrote: Your best bet is to use a small bullseye type level in the FRIDGE, this is the most critcal item that MUST be level when parked and running.
.
Fridges have tolerances. What about all of us driving with the fridge on?...roads are not level. They all have a crown or slope from one side to another to get water to run off.
Fred & Jodie, dogs, Zoey & Bella
2007 Nissan Titan, 5.6L Big tow, Equli-z-er Hitch
2007 Forest River Salem 27RB LE
Member Titantalk.com
Nights camping 08 (43)
Rallies/Gatherings
IL
WI
I believe my manufacturer says maximum 6-degrees off one way (side-to-side for trailer, front-to-back refrigerator) and 3-degrees off the other (front-to-back for trailer, side-to-side for refrigerator).
About being off on the road, the prevailing theory seems to be it doesn't matter, since the trailer is constantly moving while under tow and thus the ammonia won't get blocked because of all the shakin' going on.
First get the trailer super level. Then mount a 8-10" level where it can be seen from the driver's seat. This will be on the front of the trailer somewhere. This is an enormous help when backing up and trying to get the trailer level side to side. It also helps if you need blocks.
After you unhitch you can level the trailer and mount levels on the side for later use. We can level our trailer extremely quickly using the backup level and the side level (by using the tongue electric jack).
Being able to properly level the trailer while backing and unhitching is really the quickest way to go.
Steve and Bobbie (and Shotgun - my 115 lb dog)
Down sized to a Nash 25S
My web page is www.dustylens.com
Bucky Badger writes "...What about all of us driving with the fridge on?...roads are not level...."
The constant movement/motion prevents the fridge from being damaged. The danger comes from operating off level while PARKED. Absorbtion fridges rely on gravity to work correctly, when parked off level the ammonia circulation slows. When it slows then you are in danger of starving the boiler. If you starve the boiler it overheats. When it over heats you can crack the boiler.
Yes, the fridge has tolerances, I disagree with the current tolerances of up to 5 degrees, the older fridges were for no more than 1 degree.
I can't force you ensure its level but once you face the decision of having to replace a RV fridge starting at $1200 I think you will see it my way.
The OP really wasn't asking about leveling the fridge, it was on how to determine the best place for use when leveling, I answered that it IS the fridge. This is simply because it IS the most crital item in your RV and that other places such as counter top, floor, doors just may not be close enough for your fridge.
Offline
