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 > No drill for me!! I did get another mod done though

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marobrown

Crystal City, Mo

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Posted: 07/02/08 12:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well I am getting ready to leave for Arkansas tomorrow and had decided last weekend to get a drill to lift the roof and BAL leveler on the pup. I stopped at Sears and picked up the C3 19.2 volt drill and ran to the house to try it. Got the batteries charged and took it out and the drill would only raise the roof about halfway before it stalled. I was a little aggravated so I returned the drill and figured I would keep cranking. The DW told me to go and get the Dewalt XRP drill and use that, it was more than we were wanting to spend but if it helped the I did not mind it so much. I went out and picked one of these up this morning and charged it up. Got out to the pup and unlatched the roof and let it rip. The roof went up about 2 inches higher than the Craftsman, stalled with about 8-10 inches left to go. So I guess Starcraft roofs are heavy and I will be cranking it by hand. Oh-well, I can't have everything.

I did get some bunk end fans made though. The details are in the mods link in my sig. I just need to get some 1/4" Y's for the plug in the roof so I can run the fan and light together but so far the fans have only cost me about $10 for each one. I will have to post some pictures of them up and operational in the pup when we get to Little Rock since I don't open the pup before trips.



* This post was last edited 07/02/08 04:54pm by marobrown *   View edit history


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10tca01

Columbia Missouri

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Posted: 07/02/08 01:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bummer on the drills!

melackey73

Houston, TX

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Posted: 07/02/08 01:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2nd battery? I wonder if there would be a difference in battery longevity on low speed vs high speed for the drill? I don't know how torque is multiplied between the different speeds, but it could be that low speed would take a little longer, but the battery might last longer also...

amaze

Ohio, New Albany

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Posted: 07/02/08 01:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Need more torque than a drill can give you. If you want something that will work and give you 300 ft. lbs try a cordless impact wrench such as this.

Dewalt Impact Wrench

Latner

Indiana

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Posted: 07/02/08 01:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Keep in mind that "brand new" batteries will not hold a charge as long until they are "broke-in" a few times with recharging. They get better with age to a point.

mike4947

N. Syracuse, NY

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Posted: 07/02/08 02:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

amaze wrote:

Need more torque than a drill can give you. If you want something that will work and give you 300 ft. lbs try a cordless impact wrench such as this.

Dewalt Impact Wrench


NO!NO!NO! An impact driver or a hammer drive on the hammer cycle WILL damage the lift system.

As for torque yes reduction gearing does multiply torque, BUT variable speed does just the opposite. The lower the speed the less torque.

For the original poster: If you crank it up by hand does it get harder the closer you get to fully up or at the point the drills gave out?

For folks considering a drill here's the spec's we hashed out over the years:

400 inch pounds minimum torque rating. We used to say 300, but with AC's and heavier longer roofs we changed it to 400. Also if you can't find a torque rating you can guarantee it doesn't have enough.

Multiple reduction gearing. 2 to 1 a minimum (900 rpm), 3 to 1(600 rpm) better, and 4 to 1 (450 rpm) great. These will show the lower maximum rpms in their lower gear ranges.

Metal reduction gears and reduction case. Plastic will work, but not for long.

A torque handle mounted at 90 degrees to the drill is a helper to stop "wrist wreck" from the drill's toque rotation.

As I said at the start VSD means less torque at less speed.
AND hammer drills are acceptable when not in hammer mode, and impacts are definitely a NO-NO.


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Posted: 07/02/08 02:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Howdy!

I'd be careful using drill to lift and lower cable system now. I just tried it on my spare tire on my 5er. All I got for my trouble was a a kinked up cable I had to repair.

"Happy Trails"
chiefneon

ejbrandley

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Posted: 07/02/08 02:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mike4947 wrote:

amaze wrote:

Need more torque than a drill can give you. If you want something that will work and give you 300 ft. lbs try a cordless impact wrench such as this.

Dewalt Impact Wrench


NO!NO!NO! An impact driver or a hammer drive on the hammer cycle WILL damage the lift system.



Took the words right out of my mouth now we know why your a moderator


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the hangman

Green Bay, Wi

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Posted: 07/02/08 02:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

amaze wrote:

Need more torque than a drill can give you. If you want something that will work and give you 300 ft. lbs try a cordless impact wrench such as this.

Dewalt Impact Wrench


DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH - it will destroy the lift mechanism. You can use a hammer drill if you switch the hammer feature off.

Jeff

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He Ruide

Cincinnati Ohio

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Posted: 07/02/08 03:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There is one thing I would add to Mike's excelent specifications. I had to replace the key less chuck with a keyed one. I can't speak for cordless drills other than DeWalt, but I think their key less chuck had plastic parts and with time mine was stuck and I could not remove the 1/4" hex to 1/2" adapter.

I also support not using a impact driver or the hammer drill mode.

Ruide


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