wardtribe

raleigh, nc

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Joined: 05/10/2004

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I have damaged the rear corner trim that runs from the roof to the bottom on the drivers side. I rubbed against a post - drat. I have ordered a new one and having trouble getting my local dealer to install it. I would not say they are the best service place and I am considering doing the job myself. The last time they did work it was very sloppy.
How hard is it to replace this and can I do it?
Will the side and rear outside walls seperate or are they held in place and the trim piece just pops off?
I am concerned about what comes apart when I remove all of the screws.
wardtribe
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rockhillmanor

On the Road

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Joined: 12/06/2003

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I clipped my very own TT in my driveway with the MH and bent and nicked that same trim.
I looked at how it was attached too and decided to leave well enough alone.
Rubber mallet to straighten it, touch up paint and you can't even see it. How bad did you tear it away from the body and did it take out the rubber insert that runs thru the middle? Those are real easy to replace.
31 ft Four Winds
Chevy Tracker 4x4 BlueOx Aventa LX
We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.
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tatest

Oklahoma

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Joined: 05/14/2005

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The rear and side walls are separate, one will overlap the other. That corner trim piece covers the joint and the end of the overlapping wall. It is usually held on with screws (would hope nobody has gone to the staple gun for this part, but wouldn't put that past certain manufacturers). The vinyl or rubber strip covers the fasteners, and replacement rubber is easy to find at RV parts places.
I sideswiped a post and pulled a corner trim piece loose at the bottom, about the bottom foot and a half. I managed to straighten it and pull it back into place, and reseal it myself, working with about four feet of it loose. The work is something you can do yourself if you have the skills and tools. I grew up hanging around the family auto body shop, so have some DIY confidence for jobs like this.
If you've ordered a new piece, they might send a straight section of extrusion. You may have to shape it yourself, to the pre-damage specs of the original part.
It is not to hard to make a bending jig using pegs in a board or bench top.
Whether this is easier than straightening the damaged original, depends on how badly you twisted and stretched the part. It is a lot easier to restore a straight bend, than it is to work out a twist. Whether it is easier to pull the whole thing off to repair, or to fix it in place, also depends on just what damage you did.
Make sure you re-seal with fresh sealant as you install the new piece, or get the old one back in place. The old goop will be partially dried, and may not seal well.
Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B
2001 Ranger Edge
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wardtribe

raleigh, nc

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Joined: 05/10/2004

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Thanks for the replies.
I clipped a post a little over halfway up the corner and pulled it out about 3 or 4 inches. I have managed to straighten it out some but it looks a little to rough to leave it.
Also, I think you will be correct about having to from the piece into the correct shape. I am fairly handy with repairs and based on my last ezperience with the only Jayco dealer in my area, I would probably get a higher quality job if done by myself.
As you described, there is a vinyle cover in the middle with screw going up the trim piece. So, you think the repair can be done and the sides should not try to seperated when i remove it? Also, any ideas on how to remove the caulk on the roof? The trim piece wraps up on the roof for 6 inches.
Thx;
wardtribe
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Bordercollie

Garden Grove, CA, USA

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Joined: 03/07/2002

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I damaged and dislodged the corner molding and bent up the bumper, etc. FYI the body shop charged $2700 to replace corner molding, side marker light, install new bumper and repaint as needed. I paid the $250 deductible. Moral of story, beware rear end swing in tight places, get out and look for obstacles, go slowly and stop, do not proceed, if you hear any strange noises.
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wardtribe

raleigh, nc

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Joined: 05/10/2004

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Thanks for the reply.
I am going to the dealership tomorrow to see what I am dealing with for the replacement part to understand how much actual forming will be required.
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wardtribe

raleigh, nc

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Well, I picked up the part today and it appears to be a fairly easy jobs (famous last words). I do need to form the piece myself.
Any tips or trick on removing old caulk and what type of caulk to use?
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Ironcamper

Maryland

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Joined: 11/05/2006

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Did the same exact thing on a parking meter in Rehobeth Beach. Ordered a new trim piece. Had to get R and L sides. Only needed passenger side. Not very expensive at all. I believe it was less than $100. Ordered new gummy roll that goes under trim and new insert to cover screws. Too PO'd at myself to have someone else fix it. Just remove rubber insert, remove screws, remove/cut through caulk. Panels will not move. Originally they sent me a straight piece. I called and finally had the right piece sent. Perfectly formed from factory. The only bend I did was at the bottom. Placed gummy strip on trim. Replaced screws, rubber insert, caulked and I was done. Looks better then other side. Considered doing other side but did not want to press my luck. I threw other side trim away. Thought about keeping it for "next time" but don't want to have such little confidence in my driving! Easy job to do. No surprises.
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wardtribe

raleigh, nc

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Joined: 05/10/2004

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Thanks for the reply. I plan to attempt the job this weekend and will post the results.
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wardtribe

raleigh, nc

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Joined: 05/10/2004

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Thanks to the posts this job was fairly easy. The molding took about 20 mins to remove. The largest portion of time for me was to remove the old caulk. Also, the tape trick to make a clean line really makes the finished job look good.
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