Mr. C
Virginia, USA
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Joined: 03/14/2007
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I want to do a brake inspection, and take care of some surface rust on the frame at the same time. The tires have never been removed. I've read the brake post by JBarca, which was very informative. Pictures are worth 1000 words. Since my driveway has an incline, I hooked up to the TV because I didn't feel good about jacking the TT up all by itself.
Can I jack up the TT without hooking up the WD bars?
When I put the tires back on should I switch them front to back?
Thanks----Dave
2006 Coachmen Captiva 271RKS "Pressure Relief 2"
2005 Silverado 1/2 ton extcab 4x4
factory tow pkg 5.3 / 3.42
reese dual cam
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Knowledge is good.
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bldrbuck
Boulder, Colorado
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Joined: 02/11/2001
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Depending on the amount of slope it may be a good idea to only remove 2 wheels at a time. If you are going to rotate them do one front and the opposite rear and check the brakes and swap the wheels. Then do the other two. You don't need the WD bars.
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LarryJM
NoVa
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Joined: 11/09/2007
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Mr. C wrote:I want to do a brake inspection, and take care of some surface rust on the frame at the same time. The tires have never been removed. I've read the brake post by JBarca, which was very informative. Pictures are worth 1000 words. Since my driveway has an incline, I hooked up to the TV because I didn't feel good about jacking the TT up all by itself.
Can I jack up the TT without hooking up the WD bars?
YES
When I put the tires back on should I switch them front to back?
I wouldn't bother, have never rotated my TT tires and have put well north of 100K on two tandem axle TT over the past 26 years with no wear issues.
Thanks----Dave
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
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NCHornet1
Mt. Airy, NC.
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Depending on the incline it may be smart to do two wheels at a time. NO you don't need w/d bars. Make sure you pull the bearings, clean and repack while you are in there. You will need to grease seals and a seal puller ($7) also adjust your drum brakes. If you need to know how to adjust them just send me a PM.
NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 PSD,CC, DRW
4:10's, BTM Muffler, Isspro Gauges,
Coolant Filter,CCV Mod
FTVB , Ford AIS
6.0 Cooler,SCT2 W/DP's 40 tow & 80 econo,Zoodad mod
2005 Keystone Hornet 30BHSS
Reese Dual Cam
Family of 4 saved by Grace!!!
MY TRUCK
OUR TRAILER
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Mr. C
Virginia, USA
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I am planning to do one side at a time.
Also, not sure exactly where to place the floor jack. Do you jack up the frame and use jackstands under the springs?--or jackstands under the frame?
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mbopp
Henrietta, NY, USA
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Joined: 06/20/2004
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Seal puller? A claw hammer or small demolition tool (mine's a Stanley Wonder Bar) will work.
I jack under the frame near a spring hanger & do one wheel at a time. And I have the TV hooked up but no WD bars just to make sure the trailer doesn't roll.
"A bad day of camping is better than a good day at work."
'04 GMC Envoy & '05 Travel Star 21SSO
17' Wenonah Kevlar & 16' Dagger Royalex canoes
http://community.webshots.com/user/mbopp0153
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NCHornet1
Mt. Airy, NC.
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I believe in using the right tool for the job, especially when they cost less than $10. I place the jack under the spring perch, it will have to be a really big jack or a lot of boards to lift it from the frame!! I think mine is 16-18" off the ground.
NCH
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Mr. C
Virginia, USA
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I had to use 2 chunks of 4x4 on my 2 1/4 ton floor jack to raise it by the frame. I wasn't sure where on the spring to place the jack. Removed both tires to take care of the surface rust, and removed one brake drum to see what was what. I didn't have new seals, so I just took it apart and reassembled. The bearing looked fine. Now I know what is there, I'll get the seals and do then one by one.
I also picked up a seal puller ans a nice 4-way lug wrench. I don't know how I got along without one !
Now I need to find the proper seals.
Dave.........
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4x4Bob
California.
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Joined: 05/17/2002
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Mr. C
One more suggestion since this is the first time you are removing the tires. Use a good torque wrench when you remount the wheels. Nothing will make your day as finding a loose lug nut on a wheel while doing a walk around inspection at a rest stop on a long trip.
Um, please don't ask how I know about such things as finding two loose lugs nuts that I had guess-ta-mated tight.
Bob
2001 2500 Silverado LS 4x4 6.0, 4.10
2007 Jayco Eagle 288RLS
Cocktails for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2
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End of dirt road, no signs in sight, sun going down: I am not lost, just getting ready to go camping.
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chenevert
Virginia
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Joined: 06/23/2006
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And for those of us too chicken to DIY to jack up the RV, remove the tires to inspect brakes and repack/grease the bearings, remember that you still have to do yourself the point raised by 4X4Bob: after driving for a while, use a torque wrench to verify that your lug nuts are at proper torque. When you see one or more of the nuts turn before you hear the torque wrench's click, you will be happy you did!!! (I know I was).
You should check this before every trip we are told. But typically, once you get no rotation on any of the nuts, you should be OK until next time you remove a tire. Still a good idea to check things from time to time, but I no longer do it during every trip.
06 Ford F-350 diesel (LWB, S/C, SRW)
06 Grand Junction 35TMS (40ft)
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