Hello, I've never towed a large trailer before. A couple of questions if you have the time please. My friend has a Chevy 1/2 ton 1500 series Z1 with a 350 cid. He has what looks to be like the exact same circular 6 prong connection with a central connector.
I have to tow a 25 foot Aero trailer with it. I believe the trailer weight is 4,300 or 4,400 lbs.
Is this enough truck to tow it for one 2 hour drive to get it to my place?
Well, since you call it a 1500, it's a pre-99 I'd have to assume when they switch to "Silverado" only naming for the 1/2-ton. If it's a 96-99 (99 had both the old-body style and the new out) with the Vortec, it'll do fine towing that much for a few hours as long as the truck itself is in good shape. If the truck is earlier, and has TBI (throttle body injection) it will struggle, but still should get it done. For such a short, one-time tow I have to assume you're towing on the ball only (no weight distributing or sway control). It will be OK provided you are conscious of tongue weight and practice good towing habits. If it has a factory receiver and connector, that was a standard 7-way RV from GM on truck from 1988 on. However, what are you doing for trailer brakes?
Scott_C wrote: Well, since you call it a 1500, it's a pre-99 I'd have to assume when they switch to "Silverado" only naming for the 1/2-ton. what are you doing for trailer brakes?
It is pre '99.
I don't know anything about brakes. I was hoping that the electrical connector was also for electric brakes. I'm not trying to sound dumb here but I don't know much about large trailer towing.
I'll try to post a pic of the hitch .
thanks
The 7-pin connector is for connecting the braking system on the trailer but you'll need to wire in a brake controller inside the truck cab as well. No brake controller = no trailer brakes.
The C/K 1500s should have no problem with a 4,400lb trailer AS LONG AS it has an automatic trans. The K1500s with a manual trans are only rated for 3,500lbs and if I recall correctly the auto trans models are rated for either 6,300 or 6,500 lbs. The post-99 models got bumped up to higher capacities.
Make sure your hitch and ball are rated for at least 4,500lbs too!
The electrical connection you describe should be a 7 way plug. It's 6 flat pins in a circle then one in the center. One of the pins is for electric brakes. If there is no brake controller in the truck then there want be any power to the pin for trailer brakes.
Also a 1/2 ton will be fine for that weight, just don't put a ball on the bumper and tow that way, use a class IV/V receiver, I'm assuming the truck your plan on using is a Z71 which should have one since most come with a tow package, it should also have 3:73 rear end, which is good.
You'll be fine, have fun.
Bobby (USAF Retired)
2007 Chevy 2500 LBZ Duramax C/C, S/B 4X4
2006 Rockwood 8317SS
1973 Airstream Ambassador
Old Town Penobscot 16
you can try looking at the towing guide on the home page of trailer life. only goes down to '99 and for the 1500 it ranges from 4000 to 8200 depending on engine/rear end/2 or 4 wheel drv.
your friend will still need a brake controller if he doesn't have one. personally i don't think i'd tow it with out a weight dist. hitch with at least a friction bar sway control. you could go low end on these things (or used), that would depend on what you plan to do with it once you get it home. will it stay put or are you planning to travel with it. if traveling you might as well spend the $$ now and get a decient setup. also alot will depend on how experenced your friend is with towing. if you just bought this (used i'm assumeing) did anything come with the TT? hitch head(thing with the ball on it) 2 steel bars app. 3 ft long-anything?
2004 silverado 2500HD crew cab 4x4 long bed 8.1L gas hog
2006 skyline nomad 3260 platium edition, prodigy, reese dual cam
1 very part time camping son and 3 full time camping, 4 legged fur balls
1 SU (spousal unit) who loves rv'in as much or more than me
JimInMA wrote: The 7-pin connector is for connecting the braking system on the trailer but you'll need to wire in a brake controller inside the truck cab as well. No brake controller = no trailer brakes.
The C/K 1500s should have no problem with a 4,400lb trailer AS LONG AS it has an automatic trans. The K1500s with a manual trans are only rated for 3,500lbs and if I recall correctly the auto trans models are rated for either 6,300 or 6,500 lbs. The post-99 models got bumped up to higher capacities.
Make sure your hitch and ball are rated for at least 4,500lbs too!
FOR GASSERS:
My late- '96 Silverado 1500 EC HD (the first) w/350 & 5-speed/ 3.08 is rated 7200#GVW & 7500#/900#, as is the auto/3.42 w/o HD---for ball towing.
The base 1500 5.0/auto/3.42 short bed was rated 6200GVW, 6000#/750# for ball towing. 5.7/auto/3.73's jumped to 7500#/900#.
There was no difference in WRs between auto and std in '96 and '97. But the K's of that vintage were all rated 500# lighter than 2WD, model for model. for ball-towing....1,000# less for 5W-towing.
I routinely tow my 4500TH w/o WD/Sway, and 6200TT w/WD just fine!
J
* This post was
last
edited 07/27/08 05:49pm by nny12972 *
View edit history
Make sure the tires on the truck are aired up, radiator and trans fluid are full. Also bring everything you need to change a tire on the truck and trailer with you. If the trailer has been sitting a while the tires could blow easily.
Depending on your local laws for trailers of certain weights, you may be legally required to have brakes. Otherwise, for a one-time move, give yourself enough time to do 45mph if required and you'll be fine with no Weight Distribution Hitch.
Sway is mainly induced by not having more weight in the front of the trailer than you have in the rear of the trailer. If you have sway problems, move whatever you can forward in the trailer and try again.
FWIW, I towed my ~5700# 30' with no WDH 70 min home, had brakes, and went up to 60mph with a 1500 Suburban. But I'm used to towing and have some experience battling sway. Can it be done, yes, but that doesn't mean you should be as stupid as me
Offline
2 Boys 
Online
