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 > Help !!- appropriate trailer drawbar & swaybar to purchase

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jpf

South Dakota

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Joined: 02/04/2005

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Posted: 07/28/08 06:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have no experience pulling trailers other than the occasional rental unit.

We just purchased a 2006 used TC23QB Trail Cruiser by R-Vision, GVWR 5215#, UVW 3295#. Pin weight is supposed to be around 195# , but probably slightly higher.

I'm trying to determine the most appropriate drawbar, swaybar, etc, and if I even need a weight distribution setup, that I need to be within safe and sane weight limits.
This is the dilemma area, I know I have enough truck, I'm just not sure what hitch pieces I need.

My TV is a 2005 F350 diesel dually Lariat with a class IV receiver and necessary electrical connections. We have a built in brake controller.
We have been pulling a 2005 Montana 3400RL (13,500#)for the last four years with our 5th wheel hitch, but have decided to leave this in our summer site for the winter.

I have a 6000# drawbar used once for a rental trailer application, and I was thinking I could use that with a swaybar adapter, swaybar, and be on our way.

Am I wrong ?, what do others with experience with smaller lighter trailers recommend ??


jp

'05 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.0, Factory Tow Command Brake w/ Aux switches, Camper Package, LB, DRW.
'05 Montana, 3400RL.

bkbajb

Queen Creek, Arizona

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Posted: 07/28/08 07:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have used Equalizer for years and everything that I have towed has been no problem. It might be a little overkill for you, but better safe than sorry.

Alan


Alan, Brenda, Kyle
Queen Creek, AZ
2007 F-250 XLT Supercrew V-10,w/tow command,4.30,Equalizer hitch, WD bars
2008 Jayco 26BHS

Caddywhompus

Southeast WI

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Posted: 07/28/08 07:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Pin weight" (or tongue weight as us bumper pull guys call it) will most certainly be higher than 195 pounds, which is likely the brochure number. Brochure tongue weights are ludicrously low, based on completely empty trailers with NOTHING loaded.

Much better number to go with is 12% +/- 2% of whatever the loaded weight will be. Since the dry weight is 3300 you know the tongue will be AT LEAST 400 pounds. If you ever load it up to the maximum GVWR and keep everything up front, you could be looking at over 700 pounds!

In that you have a F350 to pull with, the WD hitch is probably not that critical but will certainly improve handling and control. Adding additional sway control such as a friction sway bar or better would also be advised as cheap insurance. You don't have time to buy sway control during a panic maneuver!

I would recomend either a Reese Dual-Cam system or the brand name Equal-I-zer as good matches for this trailer.


'04 Ford Freestar (Primary tow vehicle)
'05 Subaru Forester (Backup tow vehicle)
'65 Bethany popup (best popups ever made!)
Looking for a tow vehicle
Minivan towing


CampingMachineGuy

Northern Utah

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Posted: 07/29/08 12:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have used an Equal-i-zer brand hitch/sway control for the past four years safely and without problems. I have peace of mind when I pull, and that alone is worth the cost.


Me, my wife and two young boys
2001 Chevy Suburban 1500, 5.3L, 4.10
Crossroads Zinger ZT-270-BH
The Camping Machine


CharlyG

West HIlls, Ca.

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Posted: 07/29/08 02:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I pulled a 6000 lbs trailer with no WD with an F350 dually. Didn't even know it was back there. That would be around 600 lbs tongue weight. No sway, perfectly level.


1998 Chevy C2500HD Silverado ECLB 75,000 miles 5.7L Vortec 4L80E 3.73 Posi 8600# GVWR
2004 Fleetwood Caravan 25S 6000# GVWR


mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 07/29/08 06:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You don't NEEEEEEED a weight-distributing hitch towing a 5000lb trailer with an F350, but it's nice to have.

Even though the F350 may not squat with the trailer, the teeter-totter effect is still there. The weight of the tongue pushing down behind the rear axle lifts weight off the front axle. Probably not enough to cause a safety issue, but you never know until you hit an emergency maneuvering situation. A WD hitch will restore that.

nickthehunter

Southgate, MI

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Posted: 07/30/08 01:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

600 lbs spring bars and a friction sway control is all you need. Anything more is just really over killing the overkill. Any RV dealer or hitch dealer should be able to set you right up.

jpf

South Dakota

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Posted: 07/31/08 08:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks all for the comments and recommendations. As time was of the essence for this purchase/decision, and typically erring on the side of caution, we purchased an obvious over capacity hitch.

The dealer offered a (not sure if the terminology is correct) 15,000#/1500# Reese Dual Cam WD system with sway bar with friction pads and appropriate trailer and sway connector balls, floor price $407.00 for a discounted $307.00. No install charges.
In contrast, the price to upgrade my 6000# hitch to a more solid type, add a swaybar adapter and swaybar was nearing $200.00, so for another $100 bucks I'm covered for now and future.
This became an easy decision, buy the Reese.
We feel this will serve us well now and if we ever upgrade to a larger trailer.

jerry

Caddywhompus

Southeast WI

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Posted: 08/01/08 07:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm sorry but if you run 1500 pound spring bars on the trailer you posted at the top you WILL damage the trailer. Those bars are just too stiff, and the first time you drive over a high railroad crossing something has to bend, and 1500 pounds bars will not bend first.

WD hitches are NOT one size fits all. They need to be spec'd accordingly to the trailer in you want to tow, and then adjusted correctly to do the job. For the trailer you posted, 600 pound bars are probably optimum, 750 pound would be pushing it a little. 1500 is just plain out of the park stupid, and your RV dealer should be flogged for not knowing better.

To many of these RV places don't care or understand what they are selling, and to keep inventory low they will try to stock only "One size fits all" type stuff. They probably figure a 15000/1500 WD system covers them for every trailer on the lot, so why bother with the smaller sizes. DUMB.

Go back and try to get them to swap the bars for a better matched set. The rest of the hitch is fine as long as it's setup and adjusted correctly. If you ever decide to get a bigger trailer, you can always swap bars again as needed in the future.

-Jimmy

BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 08/01/08 08:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jpf wrote:

The dealer offered a (not sure if the terminology is correct) 15,000#/1500# Reese Dual Cam WD system with sway bar with friction pads and appropriate trailer and sway connector balls,

Just for your information.
The hitch you purchased sounds like a regular Reese WD hitch. It is not a "Dual Cam" hitch. The Dual Cam has additional components that are bolted on to the trailer A frame that control sway via the two WD spring bars. If you got a bar with a handle on it that fastens to the hitch and A frame by two small balls, then you got the regular friction sway control. Here is what the two different components look like.
Barney

Friction Sway Control


Dual Cam Sway Control



2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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