I have launched at many ramps with the TC in place. Since my boat was a 1959 Larson, 16', it was narrow and hard to see even at the best of times, so I rigged up some aluminum rods with color tennis balls on the end and attched them to the fenders, eyebolts and a pin, of the trailer so they were just a few inches wider than the camper...so when I could see both in the mirrors I knew I was rolling straight and if one dissapeared I corrected before it got out of hand.
I even had a Park Ranger watch me and he came over when I was parking and said to me..." At first I thought this was going to hold up the whole busy ramp when you rolled in, but then I saw you put on your tennis balls and I knew this guy is got it down". He added! "You even did it faster than people who can see there boat." I thought that was nice to hear! also you don't draw attention to yourself when you do it swiftly and without fuss....nobody even notices.
Also about dipping the camper...I never go beyond the wheel hubs don't want to mess up the bearings...of course I have a EZLoader roller trailer which makes that simple...RORO! Roll ON-Roll Off.
There has been a ramp long ago that I was somewhat concerned about as it was very steep...not really about the camper, but because I didn't have 4x4. But there was a really nice fella there that said if I got hung up he'd hook on and yank me out...made me feel better...but she pulled out going both ways...and that was with my old 79 F250 with a 460 and old 70's vintage El Dorado cab over....GHEEZZZ!!!
Go ahead and launch away...don't worry! Just have fun and practice before you get to a busy ramp. It will pay off! Capt PJ
We launch loaded 99% of the time. Never had a problem. Out boat does not require much draw to float off the trailer, but never been close to dunking the camper skits, even on near flat ramps. That would get me to unload first.
I use a chock behind driver's side rear wheel on steep ramps. I've got a short chain & clip on the chock which I attach to the rear tie-down, so the chock follows along as I pull away. Only problem is when someone steps in front of me with a panicked expression yelling that I'm dragging something!!! I got these idea here.
Have fun.
2004 Ford SRW 6.0 PSD, Gauges, Ranchos, Airbags w/ Cab Controler, 4400lb Rear Springs, Torklift Superhitch & TieDowns,
19.5” Visions w/ 265 Hankook DH01's
2003 Lance 1030, Air, Gen, Etc.
John H wrote: If you can, for any of a number of your reasons, put a front hitch on. Then when the day comes you need it is there, they don't eat much just sitting up there.
Just a thought on front hitches & boat launches...
A front hitch means you would be backing up the boat ramp with the boat in tow. The transmission reverse gear is not the same ratio as the 1st forward gear. A lot of people mistakenly believe they make a lot of power in reverse because the engine rev's a lot. This is just the torque converter slipping. When the torque converter slips it generates heat - a LOT of heat.
Heat is what kills transmissions (read: short service life, rebuild at 100k miles, etc). GM did a study on transmissions temps at a high stall (in gear, foot on gas, wheels not turning). The tranny builds around 200 degrees of temperature every 7 seconds!
It is always fun to watch campers in big rigs drive over hill & dale, arrive at their campsite, and then back up on to their leveling blocks. Their transmission is completely heat soaked from the drive and they just threw another big amount of heat at it - just before shutting everything down and opening a beer. Now it is not only extra hot, but the ATF is not circulating through the cooler to bring it back down to a low temp. Always put the leveling blocks in front of the wheels and drive forward on to them.
But back to boat launching... I would be careful about a front hitch unless you put it in 4WD low before backing up the boat ramp.
-Eric
Eric & Lisa - Oregon
'97 Silverado K2500, Torklifts, Airbags, anti-sway bar
'03 Lance model 1030, generator, solar,
Reverse puts more pressure on one of the clutches in the last planetary set. The last planetary is used for both low and reverse. In 1st gear the torque coming into the last planetary - which is the engine torque multiplied by the torque converter and then the upstream reduction planetary - is multiplied once more. The clutch for 1st only sees the reaction of the multiplication. In reverse the torque is being changed in direction so the clutch sees the driveline torque plus the incoming torque added together. It's the single highest torque clutch in the transmission.
In many transmission designs, the way they deal with the very high torque requirement is to bump the line pressure very high when in reverse. This puts more pressure on the clutch, giving it more torque ability. The problem is that on many transmissions, they end up sending some fluid out the pump relief valve instead of the pressure control valve when the pressure gets that high... and the relief valve dumps directly to the pan instead of going through the cooler first. That means that there is reduced cooling in reverse.
I often do the one-man launch with the camper on: Back down, then hit the brakes hard so the boat will slide off the trailer. I don't have slicks on the trailer but that might help on a shallow ramp. 4X4 gives me that warm, fuzzy feeling when the ramp is slick. For boat recover, I installed an electric winch on the trailer, powered by the P/U battery. I have camper mirrors which help a lot on launch AND recovery. I do this all the time and have never had a problem. The biggest issue is to know exactly how far to submerge your trailer, especially on recovery.
Larry Pierce 2004 2500HD, X-cab, LWB, 4X4, 6.0 gasser. 265Es, IPD anti-sway bar, Rancho 9000s, Ride-Rite bags,
I use a chock behind driver's side rear wheel on steep ramps. I've got a short chain & clip on the chock which I attach to the rear tie-down, so the chock follows along as I pull away. Only problem is when someone steps in front of me with a panicked expression yelling that I'm dragging something!!! I got these idea here.
That is a really slick idea. I'm pretty good at backing using the mirrors (the rule I have is - while watching in the mirrors, put hand on bottom of steering wheel and move it in the direction that the boat trailer needs to go). I have a 4x4 manual Dodge diesel, lots of power. However, every time I launch the boat I turn the engine off, put it in low gear, set the parking brake and still, I have visions of the whole damn rig slipping into the drink. I'm making a Chock before the next launch (one should do, I think).
If I use a front hitch is there a transmission heating issue when back up the ramp? I think my gear ratio is pretty low in 4WD low range reverse, not sure if it's the same as 4WD low forward.
Just a comment to all you folks that responded to this question about boat launching - a REALLY BIG THANKS!
I have never been involved in any forum that has such a sincere group of people ready to answer questions is such a supportive way. What's impressive is the depth of knowledge you'all have and you are willing to share it; very humbling.
Thanks to all of you for replying to this and my other questions.
fishfinder wrote: I found it to be nearly impossible... until I opened the TC door. With the TC door open and the sliding windows open, I can communicate with the wife while backing and see everything I need.
You don't have mirrors on your truck?
96' F350 PSD with smoke added, Airbags, Trailmaster SSV shocks, 315/75R16 Toyo M/T, Centering guides.
06' Adventurer 90FWS with leg extensions
06' Jetcraft XS.
94' Wells Cargo 7'x14' Slide-Show
Retired Coastie wrote: Back down, then hit the brakes hard so the boat will slide off the trailer....The biggest issue is to know exactly how far to submerge your trailer, especially on recovery.
Someone gave me this advice for knowing how far to sink the trailer. Back down until the fender is just about to disappear beneath the water. I don't know if this is universal, but someone told me this two boats ago and it has worked since then.
I launch the boat by sliding it off the trailer also. Don't let the "hit the brakes hard" comment intimidate you. I don't undo the bow strap until the the boat is actually at the edge of the water. Then I roll down and hit the brakes when the fenders slip under the water and away it goes. One of these days I'll tie a line to it so I don't have to swim so far!
To load the trailer, I drive on. BTW, our trailer has carpeted bunks.
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