RV.Net Open Roads Forum: do i need all 4 tires in load range E
RV Community | RV News & Reviews | RV Sales | Plan a Trip | RV Clubs & Services | RV Camping DealsRV.net
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > do i need all 4 tires in load range E

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 7  
Prev  |  Next
SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile


Posted: 08/01/08 08:20am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are some sizes of load range E tires that are 65 psi instead of 80. Might want to check into that.


92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6
LoadNGo service body
69Bronco ATC250R CR500
20' BigTex flatbed carhauler

B&W TurnoverBall g-neck Curt Magnum rr DrawTite ft
HD springs Rancho9000s Bilsteins poly sway bushings
285/75-16E BFG AT on 16x8 Stocktons
4.56's & Lock-Rite rear

silversand

Montreal

Senior Member

Joined: 09/12/2004

View Profile


Posted: 08/01/08 10:02am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

I dont see the wheels being the same accross 1/2-ton through 1-ton trucks. They don't all have the same number of lug holes and different hub center diameters,...


This make sense to me, too. Why in the devil would any vehicle manufacturer equip a lower payload-rated vehicle with parts from a higher rated vehicle (especially the higher volume selling F150/1500 lines of trucks!)? It's downright counterintuitive, and would make absolutely no business sense at all. Could you imagine Volkswagen sedans with SUV wheels and tires? (a bit extreme, but I'm making a point here)

With today's extremely tight costing in all manufacturing realms (from beanie hats to subway cars), I believe that specifications (here we are talking light trucks) are very, very tight and directly in line with the design/cost directive; a part that costs $3~$10 more than it should on a production run of millions of vehicles would mean someone getting canned in any organization!

S-


Silver
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 6.0L Ext/LB Tow Package 4L80E Michelin AT2s| Outfitter Caribou

Artum Snowbird

Campbell River, B.C., Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 05/28/2004

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 08/01/08 10:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Initially you said your suspension was bottoming out as well as you doubted your tires were up to the task. Adding air bags will bring your rear end up, but IMHO you should have heavier springs to prevent the bottoming out.

I think you should add a SuperSpring to help prevent the load from bottoming, then add the air bag if you need to bring up the rear end to make the camper ride level while on the road.


Mike and Carole
2000 Ford F350 SC PSD "Newman"
1994 Snowbird 8'10" "Rosietoo"
2005 16.6 Double Eagle

Sportsman Matt

Blackstone, MA

Senior Member

Joined: 10/16/2007

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 08/01/08 01:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As I stated earlier, 20 tons for 1 answer


Life is short, Play harder.

2002 GMC Sierra 1500 Regular Cab Long Bed 4.3L V6 Automatic 2WD

1989 Sunline C-750 Slide In Truck Camper
7'6" Floor, 11'6" OAL

Fishing and Hunting New England and eventually the world

Steve_in_29

29 Palms (SEMPER FI), CA 92277

Senior Member

Joined: 01/08/2004

View Profile


Posted: 08/01/08 02:36pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sportsman Matt wrote:

The steel rim will handle 80 PSI no problem.....
Using a wheel (steel or otherwise) that isn't rated for the load/tire pressure to carry a heavy load is a BAD idea. I have seen these conditions literally split the wheel. Not something you would want to happen at 70mph with your family on board.

ALWAYS check to ensure the selected wheel and/or tire is rated for the loads you anticipate.


2007 F350,SC,LB,4x4,6.0/Auto,35" tires,16.5 Warn,Buckstop bumpers
2007 Outfitter Apex9.5,270W solar,SolarBoost2000e,2 H2K's,2KW inverter,2 20lb LP on slide out tray,4 Lifeline AGM bats,Tundra fridge
95 Bounder 28' ClassA sold
91 Jamboree 21' ClassC sold

Wheelholder

jacksonville, fl

New Member

Joined: 06/09/2008

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 08/01/08 08:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sportsman matt,
I see what you are talking about. I looked at my rims and did not see any max tire pressure rating on the rim, unless I saw it and did not know what I was looking at. I spoke with the dealer that is installing my air bags about this, and he told me that my steel rims should be capable of holding the load range E tires with no problem. I realize that there is always the possibility that something such as a split rim could happen. I guess that could happen with a rim rated for 200# psi also. The rims are in excellent shape with no rust. They still have the oem paint on them. The truck has not been abused in the slightest, unless you count not washing and waxing on a regular basis.

When I make a public post, I take the answers under consideration as most on here have more experience than I do. We all have to live with our decisions in all walks of life.

Thanks again for all the comments.

Steve_in_29

29 Palms (SEMPER FI), CA 92277

Senior Member

Joined: 01/08/2004

View Profile


Posted: 08/01/08 08:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wheelholder wrote:

Sportsman matt,
I see what you are talking about. I looked at my rims and did not see any max tire pressure rating on the rim, unless I saw it and did not know what I was looking at. I spoke with the dealer that is installing my air bags about this, and he told me that my steel rims should be capable of holding the load range E tires with no problem. ....
Do not just assume they are good, ALWAYS verify the rating. Your dealership's parts dept can pull up the specs on those rims if they are OEMs.

I bet the dealer you talked to about your wheels wouldn't be willing to put his statement in writing. There's a reason for that, think about it.

Ignorance is NOT bliss in this case. It is a simple thing to verify the rating, unless of course your family's well being just isn't worth the effort to you.

* This post was edited 08/01/08 10:15pm by Steve_in_29 *

d3500ram

9,500 feet in summit county, colorado

Senior Member

Joined: 07/31/2006

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 08/01/08 09:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rotating tired front- to- rear will be more of an issue with differnt load ratings.


2005 Dodge 3500 SRW, Qcab, NV-5600, diesel, 4WD, Helwig rear sway bar, 9000XL

1998 NorthStar Arrow

88beast

pa

Full Member

Joined: 11/06/2007

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 08/01/08 10:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

YOU DO NOT NEED AIR BAGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you need larger springs the air bags will be a lost cause because with such weak springs the bags will hold all the weight and counteract the springs and cause more bounce

get larger springs maybe off a 2500 or go to stanley springs with your rear axle weight with camper on it

SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/14/2003

View Profile


Posted: 08/02/08 09:28am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Stengelbros heavy duty springs and helpers

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 7  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > do i need all 4 tires in load range E
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2008 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS