Yes, we have a Xantrex Prosine 1800 and wouldn't be without it. It powers all the AC outlets and the microwave. Since we prefer boondocking and having an electric blanket at night in the winter, it fits our needs perfectly.
The simple truthful answer to your question is "NO". "NEVER" Plugging the rig into the inverter is a quick way to drain any battery. When you plug the rig into any 110 outlet, the rig's converter and battery charger runs constantly, drawing around 400 watts and that's with NOTHING else turned on. Does the same thing when the rig's plugged into an inverter. Using a nominal 4.15 amps of 110 volt AC used from the inverter required to run the rig converter (that's the normal 400 watts for the converter plus the normal 15% loss of efficiency to run the inverter) means your are actually drawing about 41.5 amps of 12V DC from the battery. Note! 12 volts times 10 equals 120 volts. It also takes 10 times the amperage to increase the voltage 10 times. For a basic understanding, 100 watts drawn at 110 volts AC equals .9 amps. SO, drawing 400 watts AC plus the 15% inverter loss equals 460 total watts times the .9 amps for each 100 watts equals 4.15 amps at 110 volts AC to run the converter. 41.5 amps from the 12 volt battery. Simply put, a large new 12 volt battery with an 80 amp hour rating would be depleted of 41.5 amps in only 1 hour of use. it's now down to below 50% charge remaining and at 50% discharge is when you really should recharge a storage battery or the battery bank to achieve the batteries longest service life,(years). "NEVER" totally discharge a deep cycle battery or a starting battery because it lowers it's length of service life short and once it's been totally discharged, it will never recharge to 100% again. This is why you will notice nearly all people who use inverters will have a bank of high amperage batteries (the more amps available, the better) to support their expected inverter current needs. Having 3 batteries means you can slow draw 1/3 the amperage required from each battery compared to 100% fast draw coming from a one battery setup.
We use 3 large deep cycle batteries for our 1500 watt inverter and 5-7 large deep cycle batteries for our 2500 watt inverter. We wouldn't even consider not having our inverter. PERIOD!
2004 Chev 2500HD D/A crew cab LB 4X4 - Air Bags - Loaded
915 Lance Camper with 2'X 8' rear porch (my own design n build)
29 ft Carri-lite 5th wheel - 1 large slide - specially built
36 ft Carriage - 3 axle 5'er -NOW SOLD- Looking at some new 5'ers
You can avoid the current draniage of the converter trying to charge the batteries with 110V from the inverter by wiring a relay that cuts supply to the converter when the inverter is on. Just get a 110V coil relay and wire its normally colsed contacts through teh converter's supply. When the inverter is on, its 110V opens the contacts and disconnects the converter.
Thanks Travelnutz...I somehow figured that what he was doing was not good...I will let him know. My rig simply has a 400watt inverter that I plug in to my 12v socket for my tv and what not...when I am done, I un-plug it and that is that. I like to keep things simple and it seems to work well for our use.
I see you are from West Michigan...me too! I am about 35 miles North of GR in Newaygo.
Simple is the best way to go for most things when RV'ing etc. It keeps you away from a lot of problems unless you think you know everything about anything. Most of us are just humble humans with reasonable knowledge that gets us thru life. Batteries are not a non-exhaustable source of energy. When they're depleted, it's over! I'd rather have a battery reserve still there when I need it or want it rather than a no-go. Ever had the batteries go dead at night when it's cold outside and the furnace wont light when boondocking etc? Only has to happen once and you won't forget it.
That's one reason I always add an "inverter and an inverter only AC" house wiring (14-3) system to all our RV's with their own duplex outlets. I KNOW what's plugged in to the 1500 watt or the 2500 watt inverter. We like living in the RV just as if it was plugged into shore power AC. Lazy and spoiled? Yup, an proud of it! A remote control for the inverter is $30 or less so we don't need to go TO the inverter to turn it on or off in the 5'ers/TT's/motorhomes. Remote is not needed in the Lance truck camper. Each hard wired appliance such as the microwave or the refrigerator has it's own simple inverter 110 AC line on/off switch or pig tail plug which goes to a 10 amp under $10 Double pole double throw (DPDT) sealed relay wired with the shore power 110 AC the default (norm). It's wired so when the truck engine is running, it supplies the needed 12 volt charge to keep the batteries up to full charge and run (on the road) the refrigerator from the inverter (no live flame). When the truck engine is shut down, the propane ignites if the refrigerator is set to "auto" and the cooling cycle continues. When the RV is plugged into shore power or the generator is started, the 30 amp main relay and the 10 amp relay switch to the incoming 110 AC. No, that's not keeping it simple but being an engineer and supposedly knowing what I'm doing... Well, it sounds good anyway! Once learned, it's easy and the results are so great. You can keep it as simple as you want or be as elaborate as you want. I just figured were only going to live once, so why not?
You take the whole system with you when you cahange RV's or tow vehicles. Only have to buy once! Besides, being retired, it just seems so natural to doodle around rather than just scratching my head and picking my nose.
We're near Grand Haven, Camp*Queen We have a couple 300-400 watt and a couple 750 watt inverters also for various other local low wattage uses. They're great!
Listermann wrote: You can avoid the current draniage of the converter trying to charge the batteries with 110V from the inverter by wiring a relay that cuts supply to the converter when the inverter is on. Just get a 110V coil relay and wire its normally colsed contacts through teh converter's supply. When the inverter is on, its 110V opens the contacts and disconnects the converter.
Can you explain more how to do this? If you cut power to the converter will there be power to the 12 volt lights? I just want power to the outlets from my inverter, not the AC or water heater. I have a 2007 Raptor MP 299 if it makes any difference. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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