I drop/secure my rear stabilizers first, than the front. Once the front stabilizers are set I check to make sure that I haven't removed any weight off the tongue jack pad.
After opening the slide(s) and awning, re-check all stabilizers. If camping on a site for an extended period, also check the stabilizers for any settling.
As stated earlier, I have also found that tire scissor chocks help minimize movement as well.
Turk2500
05 Jayco Eagle, 278FBS, UVW 7,063lbs, GVWR 9,000lbs.
Tongue Weight: Dry 913lbs/Loaded 1,200lbs.
02 Chevy, 2500HD/4x4, 6.0L/4:10, EC/LS/SB, Prodigy, GCWR 16,000lbs.
TV/TT loaded: 14,700lbs.
Putnam XDR Class V, Reese HP Dual Cam.
00 HD Road King Classic.
I was having the same problem and I read on here to use blocks and not extend the stabs out real far. I plan on getting another set of Lnyx blocks to give it a try. We had our stabs streched out pretty far when we were rocking the most.
We have a North Trail 31 BHD and love the product. I use 2 sets of Lynx blocks to put the stabalizers in a "half extended" position. I use a 18volt cordless drill to run the jacks down, and give them another 1/2 turn with the hand crank. I'm not saying that my way is the right way, It's just what I do and it works for me. I hope you get things worked out so you can enjoy your North Trail. We almost bought the QBS but, the lack of pantry and closets changed our minds. Good luck my friend and .....Happy "North" Trails.
I have looked into the wheel chocks as well, but the inside distance between the tires on the North Trails is around 18-22", I cant find any that will extend beyond 10". I may end up making something out of 6x6s, not sure.
I guess I will try putting some extra pressure on the jacks, but I am probably putting 3/4 or a full turn on after it snugs up anyway, so not sure how much more to try, but will give it a shot.
When we put down our stabilizers, I previously used a speed wrench
with a 3/4" swivel socket to run them down. Now I used a 18.6V drill & 3/4" socket. Either way only gets them loosely set. Then I use the 3/4" box ratchet that comes with a Hensley hitch. The ratchet lets me get some leverage easily. I set the stabilizers another 1-2 complete turns--quite firm. Sears offers a 3/4" box ratchet for under $10, which is a bit cheaper than the Hensley.
Steve & C. J.
"Gracie" the Rough Collie & "Bo'sun" the Bichon Frise
TXiceman wrote: When we level the trailer, I leave the nose slightly low and put down the rear stabilizers, but just good and snug. Now raise the front to level and put down the front stabilizers (if you have them). I also us the wheel locks that fit between the tires and lock them in place. As long as you carry a large portion of the weight on the tires, you will get some movement.
We have also found that the smaller the trailer, the more movement is noticed.
Ken
This what I do also and still with the stabilizer jacks didn't care for the amount of movement that was still there. Fortunately I saved my screw type stabilizer jacks from my last trailer and I now use them vice the stabilizer jacks and IMHO they work much better and I can put a lot more wt. on them for a more solid foundation.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
I have found to fully stabilize my 25F, I use the cordless drill to run them down to where the drill starts to "grunt", and then give each one to two full turns with the hand crank. It appears that my two stabilizers in the front handle the forward/aft movement and the rear two manage the side-to-side just from the way they are mounted. I also chock the wheels front & back. I leave the hitch jack down at the point that made it level front-to-back.
Arnie & Mary
2004 4WD Dodge Durango w/5.7L Hemi/3.55/Tow Package
Reese WDH w/Dual Cam, Prodigy Brake Controller
2008 Jayco JayFeather 25F LGT
USAF (Ret) 1962-84 B-52D/G & FB-111A
Ham - N1BAC My Traveling Web Page
I just picked my trailer back up, and when I showed up they had it leveled and stabilized with the new JT Strong Arms installed. Wow - what a difference - it is very stable now. Hopefully my wife agrees next time we go camping...!
The dealer was telling me that the "instructions" from JT say that you should level the trailer, put the rear stabilizers down, then raise the front via the tongue jack another 1/2" or so, then put the front stabilizers down real snug, then lock all the stabilizers. That sounded a little strange, but I have yet to look up any instructions on JT's website, so I ought to give that a shot before going camping next.
One more thing - because of the "severe" side to side motion we have felt, I asked my dealer to try and see if he could order 2 more struts (thus giving me 4 going front to back and 4 going side to side). He said he could not find a way to buy just 2 struts.
Hey Jeff,
Just a thought, but I saw some for sale on e-Bay. I'm glad you got your stability issue taken care of. Let me know how the tire problem turns out for you.
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