Here are some pics of my camper and fresh water tank that I just removed.
This is what the tank looks like once I finally got it out
This is the bottom of the tank where the drain and pump suction connect. Might have to look close but you can see the connection ports. The pump suction on the left in this photo is where my largest leak was.
This is a little screen filter that is in the drain connector. I'm not really sure why it is in the drain line but for sure it would keep anything large in the tank. If this things gets clogged in the tank there would be no way to drain it without going through all of the trouble of removing the tabnk completely.
This is the top of the tank. The green striped hose is the fill connection that goes to the outside of the TC. Whatever sealant or glue they put this hose on with I wish they would have used on the bottom of the tank. I still can't get that hose off!. The port in the top of the tank is the vent. There is a hose connected to this that vents the air out to the fill connection area.
This shows the cut out in the tank for where the inverter is mounted.
This is where the tank used to be in my TC. The inverter is still wired up.
The cut out in the floor in this photo is where the pump suction is attached. It is about 2" deep and without the cut out there would be no way to connect the pump suction to the bottom of the tank. This entire area was level full of water when I got the tank out. Looking at all of the dark wood this has been leaking for a very long time.
This cut out on the right side of the tank is for connecting the drain line. If you look close you can see the connector and hose.
I've really got my work cut out for me. I have some strips of wood slid under the vinyl flooring to try to get all of the wood dried. Once dry I'll be able to better tell what or if there are any further damages. Still haven't decided what I'll do about a new water tank. I'll do some searching and figuring before I make up my mind.
Dan
2002 Dodge CTD - Duelly
1995 Lance 945 - Hope It Is Half As Tough As My Cameo Was
1990 Dodge Ram W250 - SOLD! Could Make A Hemi Shimmy!
1987 Cameo 9 ft TC - SOLD! One Tough TC!
There was a post, here in the tc forum, a while back that dealt with killing the dry rot in wood that had been exposed to water long enough to become blackened, but was still solid. Anyway, the treatment used a concoction made of borax and anti-freeze. You may want to search for that thread for the treatment.
Kurt
On edit: search "borax" and then see "Berticus/Lance wing dry rot
2001 Silverado 3500 DRW CC LB 6.0
1993 Lance Squire Lite 150 (8'6")
2001 Fleetwood Caribou 11J (11'6")
Hey there wrote: There was a post, here in the tc forum, a while back that dealt with killing the dry rot in wood that had been exposed to water long enough to become blackened, but was still solid. Anyway, the treatment used a concoction made of borax and anti-freeze.
When I repaired the skirts on my Lance, I used 'Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer' from The Rot Doctor. Good stuff. I only had to replace the worst of the wood. The stuff which was wet, but still had strength, I was able to dry and then apply this product. It is absolutely amazing how the wood will soak this stuff up. It will follow the grain several inches into the wood.
I recently used it on some of the wood in my new-to-me '83 Glastron boat. The plywood was very dry, but dark as it had been wet from time to time. The dryer & older the wood, the more this stuff soaks in. I highly recommend it for dry rot repair in marginal, but not complete loss, wood.
-Eric
Eric & Lisa - Oregon
'97 Silverado K2500, Torklifts, Airbags, anti-sway bar
'03 Lance model 1030, generator, solar,
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