In order to have the correct length chain one should hook up and turn TV until the tongue of trailer is almost touching the bumper of TV, kind of a jacknife. Then measure your chain so it just reaches the attachment point on your TV. Make both sides the same length and you should be good to go. The idea is to make your chain just long enough so you can complete a turn, but no longer. Hopefully when this is done they will be short enough that if the hitch comes off the ball or ball comes off TV, the chains will stop the trailer from hitting the ground.
As far as chains being required to be crossed that is just crazy talk. As some of you have mentioned most newer trailers are equiped with just one chain. THAT CHAIN IS NOT HOOKED ONE END TO THE TRAILER AND THE OTHER END TO THE TV. It is one piece of chain with a hook on each end. Both ends are hooked to the TV with a bolt or pin through the center link of the chain which is attached to the trailer just behind the hitch. As far as the DOT requiring semi trucks to have crossed chains, more nonsense! Of the three major brands of dollies I have used in the last 15 years, only one of them had two attachment points on the dolly and absolutely every trailer has a SINGLE loop on the trailer to attach the chains to. The only time a chain/cable is required to be crossed is when a truck is pulling a full trailer like they do in Calif. and Arizona, as well as other places. The tongue on the trailer is 10 to 12 feet long or longer and then if you will notice the chains are attached to the frame of the trailer on each side not the tongue. Look the next time you pass a UPS or Wal-Mart pulling doubles and see if their chains are crossed, they won't be. If the DOT doesn't require the chains to be crossed on a 36 thousand pound plus trailer then why would they require it on a TT? If it is required to cross your chains then why are many TT built in the last few years made so it is impossible to cross?
If crossing your chains make you feel better then by all means do it, but you are probably no safer than the guy who don't as long as the chain is short enough to keep the tongue off the ground. And another thing, a chain is required to be as strong as the trailer is heavy, ie. a 8000# trailer should be connected by a chain with a 8000# breaking strength. Don't connect it with one of those "quick" links that screw apart so you can insert the chain then screw back together, remember your chain is only as strong as its weakest link, most of those things won't hold a 1000#s.
2009 Mobile Suites TKSB3
2008 Ford F-450 Superduty
2000 Jeep Wrangler toad
coolbreeze01 wrote: I'm surprised any trailers are delivered with only a single chain. I wonder what strength chain is provided? My utility trailers, boat trailers, and TT's have always come with two chains, and yes I cross them.
Not only a single chain, but with a 4 inch piece of 3/8 rod stuck through the center link and welded to the frame like mine is.
Gee, the tongue weight on my Arctic Fox is 1350 lbs-from the factory. If that beast drops on the crossed chains I'm sure it will hold the tongue until I get stopped...as long as I can stop the rig in a nano second.
Vanda and Dave Ludwig (Vandave) & world's laziest Bassett Hound, Daisy Mae, 6 month King Charles Spaniel, '06 2500HD, 4WD, EC, SB, D/A, 30U Arctic Fox, Equalizer hitch, Prodigy.
vandave wrote: Gee, the tongue weight on my Arctic Fox is 1350 lbs-from the factory. If that beast drops on the crossed chains I'm sure it will hold the tongue until I get stopped...as long as I can stop the rig in a nano second.
If the trailer is equipped with the correct crossed chains and you have locations on the TV selected to handle the weight; then yes the chains will stop the trailer from turning into a plow at 60 MPH.
If setup correctly when the trailer seperates, the chains catch the tongue and the emergency brake cable gets pulled to apply the trailer brakes and keep tension on the chains to allow the trailer to track behind the TV and come to safe but definitely scary stop.
The time/distance involved in applying full voltage to the brakes during a disconnect does not apply enough force to "break the chains".
Troubleshooter wrote: Alaska's take on the subject:
13 AAC 04.275. Towed vehicles; connections and safety devices
(a) A vehicle towed upon a street or highway must be coupled to its towing vehicle by means of a safety chain, chains, cable or equivalent device, in addition to the regular hitch or coupling. No additional connecting device may contain more slack than is necessary to permit proper turning of the vehicles connected, and the additional connecting safety devices must be connected to both the towing and the towed vehicles and to the drawbar or other rigid connecting device in a manner which will prevent the drawbar or other rigid connecting device from dropping to the ground in the event of its failure. The additional safety devices must be of sufficient strength to retain control of the towed vehicle in the event of failure of the rigid connecting device.
Personally, I was taught many years ago to cross them, and do so each time I tow.
Only One Old Fellow's Opinion
That's basically how I read the FMSCA regs that I linked to in this thread. It doesn't say how to do it, but that it must be done at least in the commerical world for safety reasons.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
coolbreeze01 wrote: I'm surprised any trailers are delivered with only a single chain. I wonder what strength chain is provided? My utility trailers, boat trailers, and TT's have always come with two chains, and yes I cross them.
Not only a single chain, but with a 4 inch piece of 3/8 rod stuck through the center link and welded to the frame like mine is.
That's not how mine is and is clearly shown in my pics. If yours is that way it might meet the strength requirements, but is a substandard design not shared by almost all the TTs I have seen with safety chains. In the vast majority of reputable TT manufactuers there are "TWO" chains each with their separate end link attached to the "V" attachment point. Where are you getting this crazy that one chain with a single loop attached to one point is common when my pictures clearly show that is not the case. It ain't there and instead of incorrectly "ASSUMING" get your facts straight first.
As far as chains being required to be crossed that is just crazy talk. As some of you have mentioned most newer trailers are equiped with just one chain. THAT CHAIN IS NOT HOOKED ONE END TO THE TRAILER AND THE OTHER END TO THE TV.
I have never seen a TT with only one chain attached to the TV. All Class III and above have two safety chain attachment points The only exception to this is where the chains go behind the jack and even then each length is attached so there are two links one for each chain taking the load so to speak.
It is one piece of chain with a hook on each end. Both ends are hooked to the TV with a bolt or pin through the center link of the chain which is attached to the trailer just behind the hitch.
Not on my trailer or any I have ever seen, there are two completely separate chains with two the links of each separate chain attached to the TT if it's a common attachment point and the the other end attached at some distance apart on the TV
As far as the DOT requiring semi trucks to have crossed chains, more nonsense! Of the three major brands of dollies I have used in the last 15 years, only one of them had two attachment points on the dolly and absolutely every trailer has a SINGLE loop on the trailer to attach the chains to. The only time a chain/cable is required to be crossed is when a truck is pulling a full trailer like they do in Calif. and Arizona, as well as other places. The tongue on the trailer is 10 to 12 feet long or longer and then if you will notice the chains are attached to the frame of the trailer on each side not the tongue. Look the next time you pass a UPS or Wal-Mart pulling doubles and see if their chains are crossed, they won't be. If the DOT doesn't require the chains to be crossed on a 36 thousand pound plus trailer then why would they require it on a TT?
Well you got me there on this big rig doubles and stuff, but that is not germane here since this is about TT.
If it is required to cross your chains then why are many TT built in the last few years made so it is impossible to cross?
Absolutely untrue, every trailer whether TT or all the other classes allow the chains to be crossed.
If crossing your chains make you feel better then by all means do it, but you are probably no safer than the guy who don't as long as the chain is short enough to keep the tongue off the ground.
Again if not crossed you could based on what I found lose control of the TT and allow the tongue a higher probability of hitting and digging into the pavement.
And another thing, a chain is required to be as strong as the trailer is heavy, ie. a 8000# trailer should be connected by a chain with a 8000# breaking strength. Don't connect it with one of those "quick" links that screw apart so you can insert the chain then screw back together, remember your chain is only as strong as its weakest link, most of those things won't hold a 1000#s.
Again a complete misunderstanding of what is required for safety chang and your are basing you "INCORRECT ASSUMPTION" that most TTs only have one chain which is not the case. An #8000 lb trailer as you have incorrectly assumed is not connect by "a chain" which is never to my knowledge used for TTs, but by "TWO" safety chains that each must meet the GVWR strength of the trailer for 1 min as specified HERE
As far as the quick links you do have to be careful in matching them to the chains breaking strength and for a 5/16 grade 43 safety chain a 1/2 3300 lb WLL quick link with get you above the 5/16 grade breaking strength since the WLL is generally is only 25% of the breaking strength so two 3300 lb WLL quick links will give your a breaking strength in excess of 13,000 lbs for each chain. Of course you could use actual connecting links that are rated the same as the chain and can actually be found even at Lowe's. Also, a lot of the better designed trailers use a positive closed "J" hook for attachment to the TV. A simply "S" hook is a poor design IMHO.
Sorry but most of your post is just wrong see my red comments above.
I don't think you even read this thread all the way thru, before posting most of this IMHO "BAD" and "INCORRECT" information.
Question 1: Am I to assume the chain crossing applies to vehicles being towed by a motorhome as well or just trailers?
Question 2: If the answer to Q1 is yes, the cables (not chains) furnished with my tow kit are plastic covered and of a "curly cue" type and wondering if these meet the same standards as I don't believe there is any significant weight on the hitch.
Fred C, Mary & 'Noah' (momma's boy) SoCal
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The only exception to this is where the chains go behind the jack and even then each length is attached so there are two links one for each chain taking the load so to speak.
SoCal
