Another thing to consider when making the connection between TV and trailer is the length of the breakaway cable. It should be long enough to allow proper slack throughout full movement of the coupler (full right and left jack-knife) but still short enough to activate the trailer brakes before the safety chains tighten.
I had a 2000 lb utility trailer come off last year and luckily the trailer brakes applied just before the chains were fully extended.
Since the brakes applied, the crossed chains supported the weight of the tongue and held the trailer away from the TV until I could stop. No damage to anything at all (snow covered road helped I'm sure).
Had the chains been shorter or cable longer, nothing would have prevented the trailer from slamming into the back of my TV and possibly causing damage.
I didn't read all the replies so pardon me if it was already discussed.
Adam-12 wrote: Larry, I noticed that you just like to argue for arguing's sake. Just because you haven't "seen" something before, doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
I think you're wrong on a lot of facts regarding this topic of chains. But I'm not going to stress about it and type up rebutals in "red" color.
It's just not that serious.
Again we disagree because in my mind "SAFETY" is alway "SERIOUS".
PEACE,
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
Vinman02 wrote: Another thing to consider when making the connection between TV and trailer is the length of the breakaway cable. It should be long enough to allow proper slack throughout full movement of the coupler (full right and left jack-knife) but still short enough to activate the trailer brakes before the safety chains tighten.
I had a 2000 lb utility trailer come off last year and luckily the trailer brakes applied just before the chains were fully extended.
Since the brakes applied, the crossed chains supported the weight of the tongue and held the trailer away from the TV until I could stop. No damage to anything at all (snow covered road helped I'm sure).
Had the chains been shorter or cable longer, nothing would have prevented the trailer from slamming into the back of my TV and possibly causing damage.
I didn't read all the replies so pardon me if it was already discussed.
Vince
Exactly correct and how I think things should happen in a disconnect situation from the tongue with the TV and I'm with you, but I took a lot of heat on having the breakaway switch actviate before the safety chains broke just like I did here for my views and understanding of the letter and intent of the various regs and maybe state laws. Many thought that the trailer should be free completely from the TV (i.e. safety chains failed) before the breakaway switch activated. In that discussion a lot of folks wanted or thought they could control a trailer only connected with the safety chains by using their BC or TV brakes which I didn't see as a viable option in an emergency situation.
I am a little surpised that a 2K trailer had a breakaway system, but many states specify varying requirements for that.
I am a little surpised that a 2K trailer had a breakaway system, but many states specify varying requirements for that.
Larry
When I purchased the trailer (6 x 10 single axle enclosed) I had the dealer install brakes in order to reduce wear and tear on the TV, all in town, stop and go towing with a relatively light TV.
In Alberta, Canada, all trailers 3,000 lb GVW & over require brakes.
Larry, I think you are the one who needs to go back and re-read the posts. No where in my post did I say a one piece chain was one end connected to the TT and the other end connected to the TV. I even put that in caps to emphasize that point! The way my trailer, a 2005 Prowler Regal, and the trailer parked right next to me now, a 2009 FunfinderX, as well as other peoples on this thread, is set up is as follows. Try to pay attention. One piece of chain about 2-3 feet long, each end has a hook. Each hook is attached to my class III hitch in the holes on each side of the reciever. In the middle of the chain, i.e. halfway between each hook, a link is attached to the TT by a pin or stud or whatever you want to call it. It is welded in and can't be easily removed. It goes through one link of the chain. It runs crossways right behind the hitch and in front of the jack ( the thing that raises the trailer up and down when un-attached to a TV) . Now the hard part Larry, when you "cross" this chain only three links of this chain is involved. The one that is attached to the pin on the traler, it can move side to side about two inches each way and the one on each side of it. Crossing them does absolutely nothing but twist the chain.
This whole conversation is, IMO, worthless. All that is required is for the chain to be a enough strength and at a length that prevents the trailer from hitting the ground in the event of a disconnect.
How can you accuse me of putting out bad info, when you are not aware of the design I was talking about? IMO if you don't know what you are talking about ( and just because you haven't seen it is not a excuse ) then maybe you should keep it to yourself.
2009 Mobile Suites TKSB3
2008 Ford F-450 Superduty
2000 Jeep Wrangler toad
fullautodave wrote: Larry, I think you are the one who needs to go back and re-read the posts. No where in my post did I say a one piece chain was one end connected to the TT and the other end connected to the TV. I even put that in caps to emphasize that point! The way my trailer, a 2005 Prowler Regal, and the trailer parked right next to me now, a 2009 FunfinderX, as well as other peoples on this thread, is set up is as follows. Try to pay attention. One piece of chain about 2-3 feet long, each end has a hook. Each hook is attached to my class III hitch in the holes on each side of the reciever. In the middle of the chain, i.e. halfway between each hook, a link is attached to the TT by a pin or stud or whatever you want to call it. It is welded in and can't be easily removed. It goes through one link of the chain. It runs crossways right behind the hitch and in front of the jack ( the thing that raises the trailer up and down when un-attached to a TV) . Now the hard part Larry, when you "cross" this chain only three links of this chain is involved. The one that is attached to the pin on the traler, it can move side to side about two inches each way and the one on each side of it. Crossing them does absolutely nothing but twist the chain.
This whole conversation is, IMO, worthless. All that is required is for the chain to be a enough strength and at a length that prevents the trailer from hitting the ground in the event of a disconnect.
How can you accuse me of putting out bad info, when you are not aware of the design I was talking about? IMO if you don't know what you are talking about ( and just because you haven't seen it is not a excuse ) then maybe you should keep it to yourself.
FULLAUTODAVE:
You're just asking for an argument with good 'ol Larry on this one.
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