don/lou

Brandon MB Canada

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Joined: 10/18/2006

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Thanks to all who posted with positive responses
also wish to say thanks for the PM containing Fords instructions from Group 3 powertrain -303-03 engine cooling-general procedure, that gives instructions for ford technicians
Don
PS moderator please close this thread
Don & Louise FMCA F190607
00 Coachman Catalina 330 MSB /F53
F&R air bags and Koni Shocks
05 Buick Century- Remco Lube Pump & Blue OX
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zsr22

Atlanta, GA

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Joined: 11/20/2007

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cpmath wrote: For all you wanna be mechanics sometimes it doesn't pay to do your own work if you don't know what you're doing. If it was a "closed loop system" you aren't going to drain out all the old antifreeze and you'd just be adding "new" to mix with the old. I love it when you folks are spending a ton of money to buy your RVs but too darn cheap to have it serviced properly. Makes a lot of sense.
It's like dropping $100,000 plus on that fancy Class A but cry about gas or diesel prices. Duh. Wannabe mechanics? The guy came here looking how to do it the correct way. I applaud his desire to learn how to do it himself. There was a point when YOU didn't know everything (assuming you know everything now) but that didn't stop you from learning, did it?
Zack
1998 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 36WGS
Front Row Talladega Infield | ol' Kegerator | Our UGA Tailgate
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Jerry B

Ozark Highlands

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cpmath. Please explain what a "closed loop cooling system" is to this old wanna be mechanic and why you can't drain most all the old coolant out by draining the radiator, heater core and engine block.
Jerry B
1996 Dolphin 535,F-53.
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jolooote

Miami, FL

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Joined: 01/29/2002

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A job like this is ALWAYS done better at home. The "professionals" NEVER do it rite. They either don't have time, desire or they just don't know how to do it rite. Especially in N.Y. LOL...how ya spell "rite"?
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jeep2relax

Lakeside, CA

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Joined: 02/09/2005

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"closed loop cooling system"
The radiator does not have a Cap to remove and pour coolant into.
It uses a pressurized bottle (usually plastic) connected with hoses to the rest of the cooling system. Adding large amounts of coolant and getting the system full can be challenging on some systems.
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427435

Rochester, Mn

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Joined: 11/12/2005

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I changed mine this spring. If there's a radiator drain, I couldn't find it. I pulled the lower radiator hose (cold engine) and started the engine. Turned the engine off when the radiator stopped draining. Hooked the hose up and refilled with water and radiator flush through the overflow tank (slow process). Repeated this process twice.
Then did this several times with just clean water until drain water was clear. Then added 16 quarts of anti-freeze only before topping off with clean water.
Took all day, but I know it was done well. If you can get a good dealer/garage to do it for $150, you may be better off.
Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis
2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes,
ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
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Motor City Swagman

Detroit, Michigan/Florida

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I had the Ford dealer flush and replace my antifreeze they have a machine that pulls all the old coolant out and flushes the system then refills the system with new coolant. It can be done yourself but IMHO the dealer does a better job and it was not that expensive.
Motor City Swagman 2000 Bounder 36S
Ford V-10, Banks Power Pack w/ TC,
BrakeBuddy,Davis Tru Trac,Safe T Plus,Aventa II & Xplorer Sport Trac
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OzarkPreacher

S.W.Mo. God's Country

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Joined: 02/23/2004

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Jerry B wrote: cpmath. Please explain what a "closed loop cooling system" is to this old wanna be mechanic and why you can't drain most all the old coolant out by draining the radiator, heater core and engine block.
Good luck getting a response. cpmath is good at berating but not much help in other areas. This old wanna be mechanic would like an answer to that question too.
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cpmath

New York

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To Ozark and others: I don't believe I was berating anyone, just voicing my opinion. Most of the questions that were asked of me were answered by others on this forum (closed loop system), therefore I won't respond, just say, sometimes you can pull the lower hose, drain the radiator, (start the engine and run it until nothing comes out?, great for the water pump impellar running dry? then refill with antifreeze?) Are we sure we got all the old stuff out? Not really. Have a professional do it, motors are expensive and so are water pumps. Sorry if I rankle people but sometimes people need to get rankled and think, Ozark Preacher, I apologize if I hurt your feeling awhile back but . . .
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427435

Rochester, Mn

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cpmath wrote: (start the engine and run it until nothing comes out?, great for the water pump impellar running dry? then refill with antifreeze?) Sorry if I rankle people but sometimes people need to get rankled and think, Ozark Preacher, I apologize if I hurt your feeling awhile back but . . .
The bearings in a water pump aren't lubricated by water and running them dry (for short periods anyway) doesn't hurt anything. They're not the same as the water pump on a boat engine which you don't want to run dry.
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