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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > 1 yr old Rockwood leaking, won't cover under active warranty

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Gdetrailer

PA

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Joined: 01/05/2007

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Posted: 08/10/08 08:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

xycarp writes "Apparently the manual states that I should have been re-caulking all caulk every 6 months. "

Even if the manual didn't state it you should be checking ALL seams, windows, doors every 6 months or even sooner. Why is that you ask... Well that is because butyl rubber caulk has a very short life when exposed to UV and weather elements. That IS a fact.

I would suggest you take a real good look at all the trim, all four corners and even at the roof line. I would bet that you have leaks already that in several years will show up on the inside as soft spots in the walls and floors.

I myself am trying other types of material to seal around the windows and doors, so far they are leak free for over a year and half. I am using EPDM rubber weather strips that are self stick on one side instead of butyl putty, works like a gasket.

StanleyandIris

Louisiana

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Posted: 08/11/08 02:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would be pretty upset if my 14 month old TT was leaking at the window too. I totally understand. You just do not get what you pay for anymore. Anything that costs what these TT's cost should not have any leaking problems within 14 months. No one likes to feel like they have been HAD on a deal they made in good faith and on which they spent their hard earned money!

I am glad it is a somewhat easy repair, although I do think the manufacturer should fix it. The LEAST they can do is to provide a dry interior! At least now you know to inspect the TT every 6 months for caulking repairs. I hope this is the last of these kind of issues for you and that it is all cool camping from here on.

Iris

H & E

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Posted: 08/11/08 04:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2008 Rockwood 8314SS (delivered Feb 2008) that I have fixed two plumbing leaks in so far along with the two outside storage door leaks. (Rubber seal was installed stretched and let loose) I am still chasing a small leak in the tub enclosure. The living room floor has a lot of soft spots in it that appear to be between the floor supports. I have not been able to find a leak that could contribute to that. I check the roof about once a month and the caulking seems to be OK so far. We have been in some heavy down pours and did not find any sign of water coming in, except the outside storage doors mentioned earlier. In my opinion there is a lack of adequate quality control at Forest River. That said. A friend of mine had an Escalade fifth wheel that spent more time at the dealers getting fixed than being used. He finally sold it before it was a year old. Seems to me that the RV manufactures are not concerned with the quality of their product any more than necessary to get it out the door. Even though Forest River has its problems they seem to be better than most. This is our first RV travel experience and I still have a lot to learn. This site has provided a lot of good information that has saved me a lot of headaches.

TALLADEGACHESSIE

TALLADEGA

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Posted: 08/11/08 05:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would like to know what the process is to re-caulk a TT. What caulk is best to use? If I use the wrong caulk will one repell the other or not blend with the original? Do you remove the windows? Do you dig out the old caulk? I have touched the caulk and it is pliable but have noticed that is seems to "ball up" in small beads along the caulk line. Is this an indication of anything? My TT is a 17 year old HiLo with no apparent leaks or any other problems that I know of and I doubt if anything has be re-caulked over the years but ya'll got me nervous now.

TXiceman

(Near) Houston,TX

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Posted: 08/11/08 06:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tvman44 wrote:

Recaulking every 6 months seems extreme to me. Sounds like they (manufacturer & dealer) are just trying to duct their responsibility.


Seeing moer and more of this as well as more leaky trailers. Manufacturers would rather crawfish than fix the manufacturing problem.

Rather than fight, pull the window yourself and reinstallwith the butyl tape and properly seal it. I had on leaking on a Pace Arrow, and once I pulled the window, it was very apparent as to why it leaked. The hole was not cut right and the window was not seated in the upper left corner...ie. big gap and a little caulk. Once I cleaned it up I was able to center the window in the opening and get it to seal.

Roofs and windows should not leak and require a 6 month reseal. Out 29 year old Silver Streak still does not leak...but it was built when there was some pride from both the workers and manufacturers.

ken


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dodge guy

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Posted: 08/11/08 04:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So how do I inslect the inside seal of the window to see where it is leaking?


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soren

north eastern,Pa.

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Posted: 08/11/08 04:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dyb wrote:

agree with tvman
Agreeing with tvman, or Santa Claus, for that matter, will not have any bearing on the physics involved here. I have seen many cases where a joint looked fine in spring, and was gapped nearly 1/8" in fall. I had one rig that would have issues at the rear upper corners every six months, guaranteed. In that case it was a wood framed, aluminum sided, rubber roofed trailer. At the rear corners of the roof there were three aluminum trim strips, all meeting at a corner. Due to expansion, contraction and movement this joint opened up regularly. This leaves two choices. #1, suck it up, clean the roof and spend a few minutes with a tube of Dicor, lightly overlaying the questionable joints, for a grand total of $10 or so. #2 Deciding that I shouldn't have to do the work, since this type of maintenance schedule is ridiculous, allow the leaking to progress until the point of expensive damage, then complain that the manufacturer sucks..... IMHO, it's a lot cheaper,easier, and less stressful to accept reality, and deal with the required maintenance on a regular basis. That said, do I agree that it's reasonable to basically "patch the roof" on a very expensive new product every six months? Not at all. I also don't think that you should have to remove and re-install windows just to correct the garbage workmanship the factory seems to find acceptable. But it is what it is, and sometimes the best way to get the job done right, without a big battle, and with as little stress as possible, is to do it yourself.

* This post was edited 08/11/08 04:54pm by soren *

john b

anywhere USA!

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Posted: 08/11/08 04:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A big Amen to tvman & Webber78 it appears a chicken manure company selling these rigs!! The only physics involved here is a opening without proper caulking why is there none??? Manufacturers problem!!!


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chrispitude

Saylorsburg, PA

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Posted: 08/11/08 07:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Add another Rockwood here, less than a year old and leaking around one of the front cargo bay doors. Upon close inspection, there are gaps in the sealant. It's been happening for awhile, and there is water damage. My local dealer tried to claim "water leaks aren't covered by the warranty."

- Chris

GTAGRIP

Derry, NH

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Posted: 08/12/08 11:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Two weeks ago went camping with a couple who had just recently purchased a new Rockwood and during this weekend on Saturday Night we received 4" rain in 4 hours with some real torrential downpours and they ended up having two leaks. The largest leak seemed to come from the roof and all the way down their kitchen wall. Coincidence???

Thanks,
Mike

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