We are considering moving from our 19 foot pop-up camper to a C-class. So far we've just been window shopping. Any advice on what to consider when looking for a motorhome and anything we should be concerned about or warry about? I'd like to be sure I'm educated before we make the investment. Would love to learn from other's mistakes and victories.
Have couch and dining table on same side, so everyone can watch the tv.
Counter space-more is better.
Generator NOT located under master bedroom. Mine is and I hate it.
Ample fresh water capacity- at least 40 gal.
If you can swing it, get a Super C.
In my opinion, small class Cs can get over loaded quick.
We have been window shopping and going to RV shows. We just rented a Class C for 2 weeks to get the feel and see if it fits our needs. We kept a journal and recorded our likes and dislikes. You really will not know if a floor plan is good until you "Live It". We also check out the quality of the RV. Road Warrior is on our list, but at this time we are researching dealers and service. I would not want to drive to California for warranty work.
As mentioned Weekend Warrior has closed and may be out of business permanently. Therefore, things like manufacturer's warranty, factory support would be zero. Did the dealer mention this and what kind of price are you being offered?
I had a weekend warrior trailer, and it was not without problems. I would be hesitant to buy one without a warranty. Especially their Super C since it had little time on the market to work out the bugs.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, 230,000+ miles
Had: Weekend Warrior 41' FSW (still looking for its replacement)
I won't cover the basics, like what floor plan or RV length. That is it's own research project.
What chassis to get? Ford, GM, Dodge Sprinter? That is another huge debate. Just remember.... any one manufacturer is the same chassis used on the low end to the high end RV brands. For example, a Ford E450 chassis is the same used on a $50,000 and a $150,000 RV. Any differences would be done by the RV conversion company, not Ford.
In my opinion, the "SERIOUS" matter in RV shopping is "HOW IT WAS CONSTRUCTED". A new but cheaply constructed motorhome will be more trouble in the long run, compared to a quality made motorhome that is some years older. Here is what to look for.
- You want an arched/crowned roof
A flat roof will sag over time, getting water puddling around things like the heavy a/c unit. Water enters after the caulk cracks, introducing mold & mildew.
- You want a 5 sided rear fiberglass cap (the entire rear of the RV)
This moves the seams from the corners to the sides where there is much less stress. Due to high stress in the corners from driving, corner seams do fail more frequently, causing water to leak which often won't be noticed until severe water damage has occured.
- You want a steel framed floor and aluminum framed walls (not wood)
They will hold up better over time with less expading and contracting with the change of seasons. They are just as strong or stronger and won't rot if gotten wet. Their interconnetions hold up better from road vibrations too. Some RV companies add a layer of flutted plastic as a protective barrier between the steel framed floor & insulation, and the outside elements. That is a good idea too.
- You want a thick vacuum bonded gel coated fiberglass exterior (not fiberglass sheet stock)
Fiberglass sheet stock is a non-structural covering like the old aluminum siding days, which almost always has a sheet of chip board behind. The chip board is heavy, it rots, and releases formaldihyde fumes for many years. The other type, gel coated vacuum bonded fiberglass over aluminum framing, is thick and structural, weighs less, is well insulated with exanding foam, and holds up better over time.
- The fewer the seams, the better
A B+ design compared to a standard class C design has an aero-dynamic cap over the cab area, which has much less seamwork, all located in low stress areas. BUT in most cases you give up the over-cab bed. If you just got to have a cab-over bed, then So-Be-It. But then stay away from a front window. Side windows good, front window bad. It is common for that window to leak water, it is very hot in the sun, and is very cold at night. It will soon loose it's apeal, quickly becoming a regret.
- Roof Material, sheet fiberglass holds up best
There are rubber roofs and PTO roofs which generally have issues when RVs get older. Sheet fiberglass will typically get rolled over a round edged roof, overlapping the walls for an ideal interconnect. Once again, this eliminates two long lengths of corner seam work. On RV.net, someone bought a brand new RV with a flat roof. Getting ready for their maiden voyage, they seen daylight beaming inside from inadequate caulking where the walls meet the roof.
A one piece fiberglass RV like the Coach House is best, but there are few out there at affordable prices. If those are beyond your budget or not meeting your floorplan & space needs, use the above criteria when shopping. Get educated and watch THIS VIRTUAL TOUR of a motorhome built as I described above. We own one of them and see we are in good shape for many years to come.
* This post was
edited 08/12/08 12:28pm by ron.dittmer *
Bought new in June 2007, Phoenix Cruiser-2350
Fits inside our garage.
Dingy towing a red Toyota MR2 Spyder
See The Inside by clicking on "View Profile" and scroll down
Offline
