Jim102
Cabot, Arkansas
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Joined: 05/19/2006
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Well, we are now living in Cabot, Arkansas and really like the house and the people we have met so far. This is the first time I have the property to park the MH behind a fence on the side of the house. I can modify the gates so I have an opening of 12' opening, which should do it. But, I am also trying to save money on the "pad". I'll have to go concrete to the fence( I guess), but behind what can I use besides 32 feet of concrete? The unit is 29' long, two strips of concrete to park on? I'm trying to save as much money as possible. Is there anything but concrete that I can use to get to the fence? Should I go concrete behind the fence and something else to get to the fence?
Any help (as always) is appreciated,
Jim
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A 12 yr. old long haired Doxie, "Digger"..
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kendall69
Palm Springs California
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Joined: 05/02/2004
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Use both methods deep gravel and concrete pads only under the area that the tires rest on. This way you can go with 6" concrete under the tires for great support, and only use the grave to "drive" to the pads.
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maddog348
Bakersfield,CA
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Joined: 04/08/2008
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Our pad is(luckily) right off driveway(think drive across driveway). Pad(30' gate to end) poured for old PUP - then got 19 1/2' classC had canopy built - NOW have 27'A (had to have gate widened and canopy raised) his tail hangs over dirt but his 'feet' are all on the pad.(see sig)
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tom_kat
way upstate new york/lake george area
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cement is the best,cheapest is 6 inches of crushed stone,it would work if compacted good use a fine stone for the top layer , get some bagged cement and spread over the crushed stone and water it in, do this several times after each has set up it will harden up pretty good after a while ,you can put a cement pad over it later.
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jim87vette
Arizona
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Joined: 07/25/2008
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tom_kat wrote:cement is the best,cheapest is 6 inches of crushed stone,it would work if compacted good use a fine stone for the top layer , get some bagged cement and spread over the crushed stone and water it in, do this several times after each has set up it will harden up pretty good after a while ,you can put a cement pad over it later.
I agree with these ideas as concrete would cost a few$.
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lane hog
Tucson, AZ
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Joined: 07/06/2003
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Crushed stone would be easiest to maintain in my opinion. No stains or tire marks to worry about, no cracks from ice or stress, and if you sell the house, it's relatively easy for the new owner to remove.
It should deep enough for water to drain and to discourage weeds.
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TMBLSN
Washington State
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Maybe something like this:
Grass Pavers
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1998 C2500
Lee
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StevenH
Michigan
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Grass Pavers tend to be a bit pricey.
Check on the cost of limestone for your drive and or pad. Once compacted it is pretty solid stuff.
Steve
97 Beaver Patriot 40'
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Jim102
Cabot, Arkansas
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Thanks for all the ideas, I'll be pricing them up next week..
Jim
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rjstractor
Auburn, WA
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Joined: 01/20/2003
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Techniques, methods and costs will vary by region. Crushed rock (or stone as they call it on the East coast) is probably the most economical. If your soil is loamy or soft, a barrier of landscape fabric between the soil and gravel will be beneficial. In my area, at least, fabric does nothing to prevent weeds. Weeds grow really well in gravel, and around here the only way to control them is to use a good, strong pre-emergent herbicide over the fresh gravel and then periodically after. If you were me I'd look at other types of parking pads in your region to get a feel for local methods and techniques, as like I said before they vary regionally.
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