As everyone else, I"m glad you and everyone were safe and sound.
Although you have to look at the upside here - now you can post questions here about your new "dream" coach
It's a buyers market, now you get to upgrade and don't have to fight for trade in prices
Silver lining if you look closely enough....
2008 Itasca Sunova 35J Class A
1997 TJ Sahara, hard and soft tops and AC
Held together via Roadmaster Falcon 2 tow bar and stopped by US Gear Unified Brake system.
93bounder, I echo the sentiments of all the others, and am so sorry for your great loss. The blessing is you and yours weren't injured and that's most important of all. Please do stay with us on the forum and let us know how you are doing and we'll be waiting anxiously for the day you announce that you're on the road again.
it was the chevy chassis witht he 454 motor. i do think it was the slide pin that stuck on the brakes and caused the oevrheating. we had been driving in stop and go traffic for about 20 miles on I-94. I felt nothing in the driving and was only made aware of the problem by a great guy that was driving by..
Your post about DIY fire extinguishers got me to thinking. What we need is a water outlet so we could use our onboard water supply and pump to put our a brake fire. Wouldn't be too hard to do, but you would have to keep a hose hooked up (one of those that coil up flat) that is in the compartment by the entry/exit door.
I have a Hosecaddy on the end of a curly hose on a 80psi washdown pump which sucks my fresh water tank down.
Our master plan is to run out the door with me grabbing the 2 1/2 gallon Cold Fire sprayer and using it while the wife grabs the Kidde foam ext(both are just inside the door) and opens up the bay and uncoils the hose and connects the jug on the end and stands ready to hand it to me if the first two don't do the job. Unless the fire is really big..... Then we will just run.
Bill and Susan
84 Barth 30 tag powered by ht502/Thorley, Gear Vendors OD
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes
4WD Toyota toad
I'm not sure anyone would agree with me, but I believe in an emergency such as this, if there was anything in the holding tanks I might try hooking on the sewer hose and let-go the gray water. If that doesn't get the job done, and if I thought it would help, the next action I'd take would be against the law in all states.
Mont G&J wrote: I'm not sure anyone would agree with me, but I believe in an emergency such as this, if there was anything in the holding tanks I might try hooking on the sewer hose and let-go the gray water. If that doesn't get the job done, and if I thought it would help, the next action I'd take would be against the law in all states.
I was giving that some thought the other day and thought by turning on water at the sinks on the way out and having a bucket to set under the gray water (at least until it ran dry) could be of some help. The main problem with the tire/brake fluid fire was not the flames that could be knocked down but the lack of a cooling agent like Cold Fire, etc to put on the metat wheel to remove the heat that restarts the fire over and over. If CO2 was on hand it may should be used on the wheel, not the tire.
In that case the fuel and oxygen were not the problem because they had been there for years. Heat is the new kid that completes the fire triangle. Remove him first then deal with the fuel. Some people would try to put out the flames instead of fighting the cause of the fire first. If you had two people both the heat and fuel problems could be dealt with at the same time.
Mont G&J wrote: I'm not sure anyone would agree with me, but I believe in an emergency such as this, if there was anything in the holding tanks I might try hooking on the sewer hose and let-go the gray water. If that doesn't get the job done, and if I thought it would help, the next action I'd take would be against the law in all states.
If the fuel is hot enough it is possible that the water would
turn to steam before it ever reaches the origin of the ignition.
This hot steam would rise causing turbulence, drawing in more air
(OXIDANT) from the bottom, making the fire worse. A related effect
is if the water hits the burning surface, then turns to steam,
expands, and exposes more fuel to the air. Here, too, the water
could make the fire worse by exposing more fuel to the other
components of the fire.
Yet another way that water can make a fire worse is if the fire
is the surface of a burning liquid that is less dense than water.
Here, even if the fire is not so hot, the water can sink beneath
the surface of the less dense flammable liquid. The water then
starts to heat rapidly, but is covered by the burning liquid. If
the conditions are right the steam formed beneath the surface of
the burning fuel will "burp", explosively spreading the burning liquid.
Best to just get the H__L away...& let the Pro's handle it
"If you don't know where you're going, you'll wind up somewhere else"
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