SteveRankin
Sequim, WA
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Joined: 05/05/2005
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I've been driving mountain roads my whole life & I learned a long, long time ago to not go down a grade any faster than I can go up it.
I rarely use the brakes at all going down mountain grades. Whether it's in a car, any of the pickup/TT's we've owned or the DP pulling a Jeep Grand Cherokee. We use the gears & engine braking to keep our speed down to a speed that can be controlled and maintained without using the service brakes. If you do this, there is no reason to have a runaway because the service brakes will never get hot.
Steve & C. J.
"Gracie" the Rough Collie & "Bo'sun" the Bichon Frise
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bill h
el segundo
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Joined: 08/02/2001
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SteveRankin wrote:
I rarely use the brakes at all going down mountain grades. We use the gears & engine braking to keep our speed down to a speed that can be controlled and maintained without using the service brakes. If you do this, there is no reason to have a runaway because the service brakes will never get hot.
As you say "IF you can do this........" That is certainly correct, but not always possible. I always do as you do, but still smell my brakes sometimes.
Montezuma and Kennedy Meadows are two that come to mind.
Bill and Susan
84 Barth 30 tag powered by ht502/Thorley, Gear Vendors OD
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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There are a lot of good thoughts here but there is a good chance this guy did not have 57 years of truck driving experience. Some the MH is the first truck they have driven. An as mentioned our P30's are more the most part loaded to the gills from the factor.
I went down one short hill that ended in a T faster than planned when the old loaded truck jumped out of first gear and the brakes would not hold it. Thankfully no traffic was coming.
We have a simple plan when we get to our first mountain. Unless a different gear/speed is suggested we will start out in second which would redline about 60 MPH. If we have to brake very often to stay at 35 we will brake her down while the brakes are cool and get back to 1st gear since 35 MPH would be 4K RPM (WOT shift point from 1st to 2nd) with 4500 being redline.
If they were starting to fade at any point with mountain left I might try shutting it down with engine, brakes and parking brake all at the same time. Then again I may just panic. Seriously overthinking this possibility of driving a run away MH is about the only thing I know that could help NOT panic until you plan did not work.
Has anyone in a P30 ever tried shutting down a MH doing 60 MPH with just the parking brake on a hill? I have done it from 20 MPH and it worked OK but going 3x faster may be 10x harder to stop. On click 3 of the foot set parking brake it locks tight enough you can not move the MH with it in 1st gear.
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Stranger
Sparks, NV. USA
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Joined: 09/29/2001
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Why not just do what the DMV says and go down the hill in the gear you went up the hill?
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting "Wow, what a ride!". 
'96 3500 Auto (2/4drop)
'02 3500 6 Speed.
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bsinmich
Holland, MI
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Joined: 11/18/2000
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We talk about brake fluid flushing but there are many mechanics out there who will laugh at you and say they never heard of it. I had it happen to me in Peterboro, Ontario with my '89 Jamboree on a Ford E350. Apparently the brakes hung up on the one wheel a little bit and after a few hills and traffic stops the fluid was boiling. When I had a red light at the bottom of a hill I had no brakes. The pedal went to the floor and did nothing. I pulled it into low gear quickly and tried the emergency brake. Fortunately there was no cross traffic and I was able to coast through the intersection safely. I did use water on the wheel to cool things down because it was so hot I was concerned about the tires and a fire. There was no damage from throwing a bucket of water on the wheel. I became a firm believer in flushing fluid every 2-3 years after that. The MH was about 5 years old at that time. By the time I changed my underwear the wheel was cool to the touch and I was able to go with no problems. I did drive home with no problems and that is when I learned about brake fluid. There was an article on brake fluids a few years back and Ford type 3 was the highest boiling point of any type 3. I use Ford fluid in my WH, my previous Chev. and my Chryslers. My wife is a Ford retiree so we even get a discount on parts.
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, & 2002 PT Cruiser w/Remco lube pump, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake
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Sully2
Cincinnati
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Joined: 01/20/2003
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If you have disc brakes and plan on doing much mountain driving...get metallic front pads installed. The hotter they get the harder they grip. After MANY miles your rotors will require turning or even replacing ( many miles now) but by golly they will STOP you and RIGHT NOW
2000 Country Coach Allure; Cummins ISC 330 HP; 71/2 - 8 MPG regardless
2002 Jeep Liberty
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Sully2
Cincinnati
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Joined: 01/20/2003
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tropical36 wrote:If your rig has a later J71 auto park, then pulling the yellow knob will clamp down on the drive shaft and maybe save you if you're not going to fast.
As far as overheating goes...it's not just the pads and rotors. When I descended off of 9,966 ft. Powder River Pass into Buffalo, Wy, in July, I obviously boiled the brake fluid, which will send your brakes to the floor...luckily this usually happens after you get to the bottom and sometime later after you stop for a spell. Thing is, it probably wouldn't have happened if the brake fluid hadn't been so old and full of moisture, which lowers the boiling point. Also it never hurts to descend in low gear, no matter what you came up in. Now, I don't pump the brakes and neither do I ride them...and as a result there was no damage to the pads or rotors. We had the brake fluid changed, even though the brakes mostly returned by the next morning and everything was back to normal.
Use Dot 4 (higher boiling point) and change it every few years or so, to stay out of trouble.
Its some real "flat ground" in that area aint it!!! I came thru the Bighorns on the maiden voyage with my CC....in 4th gear...Pac Brake on and running a little less that 40....back brakes SMOKING. I do everything I can now to route myself AROUND that area on my westward trips now..even to get to Cody Wy. Not only do I make BETTER time...the ride is more comfortable and I dont have those L..O..N..G 6 and 7% grades to contend with
If I had a "Jake Brake" I MIGHT be inclined to try the steep ones again...But I dont..so I wont.
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Sully2
Cincinnati
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Joined: 01/20/2003
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Stranger wrote:Why not just do what the DMV says and go down the hill in the gear you went up the hill?
Because to be on the SAFE side...you need to go downhill in ONE GEAR LOWER than you went up in!
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Dog Trainer
Richmond Mi.
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Joined: 08/17/2006
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In coaches equiped with the Allison reansmissin, going down a hill in a lower gear may not always work.If the engine over revs the tranny will upshift no matter what gear you have selected. This is where proper techniquees are very important. I have an air over hydraulic system and I had a brake hang once. It did cause a brief moment of panic and brake fade. I made sure that before I continued on the brakes were cool and as an additional prcaution I bled the brakes before moving. I carry a quart of brake fluid just for these emergencies. I also carry a power bleeder in my tools. Now many may think that is overkill but I am going to be carefull when it comes to brake safety. Becouse of this I will most likely not find myself in the situation of this story.
93 Airstream 35' Dp
5.9 230 uprated to 300 HP
Allison MD 3060
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Rustydog
Bethel Park, Pa
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Joined: 12/02/2003
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Spend time around any long steep descent you will smell a lot of hot brakes. People drive in overdrive and ride the brakes all the way down. Either they were never taught or never took the time to learn how to control a vehicle.
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