sdmotor
Chula Vista
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I just did the same thing for the same reasons. Here's what I did based on some advice from here.
I bought a 1000 watt inverter from Costco (Xantrex)
I figured out what circuit I wanted to invert. Mine was the TV's and outlets over the dinette.
I installed a double outlet box and wired with an orange and a white outlet in it.
I removed the wires from the panel for the circuit I wanted to invert and ran them to a junction box and connected them to an appliance cord. When I want to invert that circuit I unplug the cord from the white outlet and plug i into the orange one.
Works great and I can't accidentally backfeed the inverter this way.
Here's how I wired it.
Getting there is half the fun....
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jim87vette
Arizona
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Bubby's RV wrote:Here are some sketches of how I installed my inverter using a sub-panel. The sub-panel is located near the main panel so I only had to run 120-VAC wiring to and from the inverter. The wires that were attached to the main panel breakers were just moved to the sub-panel.
My inverter contains an internal transfer switch, which helps matters considerably. When on battery power, only the 120 VAC receptacles and the microwave are powered. If you don’t want to power the microwave, just leave it attached to the main panel.
This is a single-line of my circuits before the inverter:
This is after installation of the inverter: 
If you buy an inverter without a transfer switch and only power the receptacles like I did, the transfer switch only needs to be a 30-amp switch or smaller.
Question what size wiring from batts to inverter,or do you have the schematic with all the wire sizes?Sorry not trying to threadjack just curious about the same things as op.Don't want to start a whole new thread since you guys are giving all this great info.
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jim87vette
Arizona
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Thats a good idea sdmotor,thanks.
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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sdmotor wrote:I just did the same thing for the same reasons. Here's what I did based on some advice from here.
That looks a lot like my advice (Right down to the Orange (or red) for the inverter powered outlet)
And to the O/P.. Well, now you have it (my advice)
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
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Bubby's RV
CA
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jim87vette wrote: ...
Question what size wiring from batts to inverter,or do you have the schematic with all the wire sizes?Sorry not trying to threadjack just curious about the same things as op.Don't want to start a whole new thread since you guys are giving all this great info.
The wiring from batts to inverter is either #0 or #2/0 (I forget and it's pretty well hidden now). The AC wiring to and from the inverter is #12 Romex.
John, Winnebago Minnie 24V
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Listermann
Cincinnati, Ohio
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To prevent the inverter from attempting to charge the batteries through the converter, all you need to do is install a 110V coil relay to the inverter so that it is activated when the inverter comes on. Wire the normally closed contacts so that they interupt the converter's current. When the inverter comes on, the contacts open and isolate the converter.
I mounted a pair of transfer relays under the bed, one for the generator and one for the inverter. The relay is in the inverter switch box. My only problem now is if the inverter is on when the generator starts. I need to get another relay that disconnects the inverter when the generater comes on to prevent this problem.
Obviously you probably would not attempt to run the AC with the inverter, it will just shut down.
Also another consideration is that you probably won't want to run the refigerator on "auto" where it goes to electric when it sees 110V. Just set it to "gas" when you think you will run the inverter. I suppose that another relay could be handy here, but it is not critical.
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davelinde
Freehold, New Jersey
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THANKS for the help, schematics etc... clarified my thinking here. Here's a cut at answering my own questions. Correction/advise welcome:
I am contemplating adding more battery and an inverter... for running our air-card router, a few portable PC's and maybe the television/DVD. ...I'm thinking a 1000W inverter should be more than enough.
>>1000W is probably more than enough, maybe 600W will do?
How would I connect the AC side?
>>I'd need an inverter with a hardwire option and I'll need to make a new "small load" subpanel
Do I have options?
>> yes... a few.
Can I use a transfer switch?
>> If I want it to be automatic I need the switch.
How would that switch work with the switch for the genset?
>> It goes after the primary 50A switch, between the main panel and new sub-panel. It only needs to be sized to support the subpanel. Some inverters come with built in switches or I can get an external switch.
Is it OK to power the whole house from the inverter so long as I just don't turn on high load items?
>> I think no...
(If I do by accident can I assume the inverter will protect itself and shut off?)
>> The better ones do.
How do I isolate the charger (since it makes no sense to power the charger from the inverter...)
>> Via the new sub panel
So now my question is... where do I get an RV style AC sub-panel and where do I install it?
Dave Lindemulder
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Javlin101
Alberta Canada
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I installed my pretty much as Bubba RV;s. Only diff is I removed my converter & went with an Inverter/charger. Mine transfer from Inverter to charger as soon as it gets shore or gen power.
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Hi,
There are many RV's that feed a 30 amp transfer switch with a 30 amp breaker, and the inverter and shore power from the 30 amp CB feed into the transfer switch, then the output oges to a new panel with 2-4 circuit breakers with 15 or 20 amp circuit breakers as required by the output wire size.
This works great unless you attempt to run two or more electric heaters on the receptacles fed by the inverter and 30 amp circuit breakers. Because the shore power is limited to only 30 amps, it is possible to trip the 30 amp breaker. It might also trip when making coffee and toast while a single heater is running.
Fred.
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kneal44
EAST CENTRAL TEXAS
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iam installing a 1000watt inverter output to the break contacts of a 110volt relay coil connected to the single breaker that feeds all the outlets except converter. the make contacts connect load to inverter. the break contacts connect the panal 15 amp breaker to the outlets. now when i have shore or gen power this relay drops out and the make contacts connect the inverter . if the inverter is on... i should have boondocking power. relay will be double pole double throw. these are standard HVAC fan control relays $10each.
so when ever i shave shore power my inverter is disconnected and the outlets are automatically connected to shore power via panel single breaker.
if i just wanna test the inverter for some reason even wheni have shore power i just switch off that breaker and wallaaaaa ... i have the inverter connected because the realy drops out. i use this method so i use shore power to energise the relay and not the inverter.battery connections are #2 short length tied to the gen start cable. at 100 amps draw i dont expect this short wire to heat too much. mostly am using the tv and computer and maybe occosional micro nuke job. the frig is still on one of the outlets and if i get low on propane..running down the road i can still have cold beers...orsoada.
this make any sense? i also wanna thanks those that advised me.
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