I still have my 90 Suburban with the 6.2, and it's been mostly a great truck for the past 2 years I've owned it. Here's my current problem- It's had what I thought was a small leak in the radiator since winter. It would lose a half gallon, then remain there until filled. My radiator man said he thought it he knew what it was, that it's a common problem and he would fix it whenever I had some time off from my job.
Well, last week it was getting hard to start, so I figured the glow plugs were going bad. (It uses 60g's and a manual button, since it's set up to run on WVO as well as diesel). Anyway, I changed them out, but I noticed as I was letting it idle after getting it started that the gauge was rising. Since I've never replace the thermostat, I immediately shut it down and pulled it. Worked great and ran cool. A few days later, I bought a thermostat from a Reliable auto parts store, and put it in. Within a mile of the test run, as I watched the gauge to make sure it opened up, it started rising and was red lineng at 240*. (It went up pretty fast!) I was pulling over to the side of the road when the thermo opened up and the temp started dropping, but it wobbled between 200-210, instead of 180-200 as usual. I pulled it and took it back to the store, called the dealer and ordered an OEM thermostat ($43! ouch), and called my radiator guy. He tested the radiator the next day, pulled it, checked it, and called me and said he couldn't find a leak in it. He said it was "burping water from the overflow", which he thought might mean compression escaping from a head gasket or possible hole. What do you folks that may have some real experience from this think?? I trust my radiator shop, but this forum has always given me the best advice, due to the experience of it's users. I would appreciate any and all comments on what you all think and what you would recommend as the next step. I've been told it may cost $800-$1000 to tear it down and replace the head, if cracked, and if the cylinder sleeve is damaged, maybe a new engine. I've found another 6.2 that was in a postal truck for $250. Another friend told me he had an inner hose (radiator) collapse and that solved his problem. The water pump isn't leaking or squealing. Help, please.
Take this with a grain of salt. I am not much of a diesel guy. But I think your radiator guy has it right, based on my experience with Gassers. Burping or bubbling in the radiator usually points to headgasket or head problems. In some cases due to a broken headbolt, and coolant coming up out the hole.
Look for signs of dried coolant somewhere around the heads. May help to point out the cause.
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Have your radiator guy put a pressure test on the complete system cold and leave it while it is running and heatin up.Since you pulled all the glow plugs if it was leaking into a cylinder then one or maybe two would look different than the others. I'm sure he checked your radiator cap but try a new one.
Thanks, raygreg, I'll head over there. But if anyone has any comments, I'd still really appreciate them. I know there's a tow vehicle section, but the 5th wheel section has always come through for me. Thanks, again, I will check out dieselpage. Right now, I'm in serious negotiations with DW. I have 3 options. Invest money to fix and keep; Invest money in cheap spare car and work on it later; or Sell as is with 2nd engine included (or not included, whichever). I'm finishing up a shut-down job at the St. Louis Chrysler plant, and she is nagging, I mean concerned, about me getting right onto another job ASAP. I told her I need to get this worked out before I take another job (I work construction). I'm trying to please all parties here, so I'm a little desperate for advice. Thanks, raygreg. Lee
Another vote for the diesel forum/s.
Not only will you find folks who "wrench" on their own engines,
you will often find full time mechanics willing to help.
For GM / Chevy, besides the diesel PAGE dot com (as above),
there is also the diesel PLACE dot com
I drove a 87 6.2L diesel, and at around 62,000 miles the engine got fairly hot driving home from work. They towed it into work and replaced the glow plugs. It still ran kinda warm, and it was not hot out.
After a couple of weeks I took it in to check the radiator for exhaust leaks, and the material did not change color, so I was told to drive it. A week later I went back for a radiator recheck and asked to watch. They said suit yourself, and I watched it burp for about 30 minutes, before telling them to change the heads or head gasket.
When they took it apart, they said I damaged it - and I could see the cracks in the heads. Well I felt bad, but when they repaired it I drove it until it reached 130,000 miles and I was given another vehicle. My truck went to another department, and they put another 30,000 miles or so on the truck and sold it.
Also in my department was a 6.2" dually van, and rebuilding that engine cost my department $7,000 (for inhouse labor - those are slow mechanics). I have no idea what they spent on my truck. Same thing, about 75,000 miles, cracks in the heads. I requested that they replace the other truck in my department before it needed a $5,000 rebuild - the truck was not worth that much at the auction.
I would say take off the heads and look for cracks. If you find some, then look into buying that old 6.2 and hope that the heads don't have cracks. It would be worthwhile to have them magnafluxed before taking the time to install them in your truck.
You might find that you have one good head on each engine - but who knows for sure? I would say inspect the valve springs and seals. Turn the heads over and fill them with diesel fuel. If they hold the fuel for a hour or more, then the valves are sealing tight enough.
Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche or Country Coach!
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