so, I get some batteries, a charger, an inverter, some wire, and viola, I have a system.
yeah yeah, I know, there is more than that. THAT is exactly why I ask you folks.
Batteries, without busting the budget?
How many amp-hours etc, weight, box for them? lotsa questions
Charger? always on (provided shore power available)
how about battery tenders? or, connecting with heavy guage from TV
inverter? how many watts is enough?
Now, I would think there are several options with this setup.
I know there is the "money no option" solution that gets me 24 hours of battry supplied 110v, but, we must remain realistic.
I ask for the "money no option", "best for budget", and "cheap imitation" options. Please, describe in detail your reasoning for each type. If you only choose to speak of one "model" do so.
I am looking for a decisive place of 12v to 110v conversion info.
You first must determine your needs.
Will you be just playing with it and trying to keep a min charge to replace phantom loads or planning to live off the grid completely.
Do you plan to operate only a few lights or a complete home entertainment system and a couple of air conditioners?
I would suggest first you get some books and study the subject.
Try: http://rvbookstore.com/
Do a search on their site for "managing 12 volts".
It is a good starter book. They also have many more on the subject.
We all probably have our opinions, but first you must determine your goals.
OBTW, Even small systems cost $$$$$$$!
Jerry, Dottie & Chan, "the little furry one"
98 Bounder 34V, 99 F-53 Ford V10 chassis
06 Saturn VUE 4I
Removed the converter & wired the 12v directly to the batteries with a inline fuse.
Installed a 2000w Tripp-lite inverter/3 stage charger with a sub panel for outlets I wanted to power with 110v. Used welding cable to connect batteries to inverter. Installed a Tripp-lite remote monitor.
Installed 2 Trojan T105 Batteries.
System works great, can use toaster, coffee machine, hair dryer etc..
automaticaly switches to 3 stage charger when shore or gen is used.
I agree that you need to figure out what it is that you are planning to power for 24hrs.
Fridge? Fan? Light bulbs? A/C? ect.
Once you have a plan then you need to add up the total draw.
Once you have the total draw then figure out the size of inverter then the battery capacity will determine the run time.
I run my 110V AC "home" fridge in our TT overnight using a Tripplite PV1250 MSW inverter. I enabled the inverter auto sense to turn off the inverter when no load is present. This feature could enable my setup to run several days without shore power easily using two 6V golf cart batts from Sam's (by the way this is a low cost way to get some bang for the buck $60 each and 205 amp hr cap).
I intentionally stayed away from the inverter/charger setup since I didn't like the fact that if one or the other quit you would have to replace BOTH items which would cost more later.
Here is a document I have been working on, keep in mind that it is a "work in progress" so it is in need of more info. RV HINTS AND TIPS
If you like you can take a look at our rebuild project KOMFORT REBUILD
How many batteries depends on how much you want to power with 'em. Basically a pair of Golf Car batteries runs my motor home over night, 2 pair also runs the TV's and other "Radio" stuff (Sat receiver, dvr, and so on)
How much inverter, TV's only 1,000 watts, or perhaps a bit less, but I'd go with the kilowatt
Add a microwave, add a thousand watts (I did)
The inverter (if you get a good one) Doubles as converter (mine does)
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
I also forgot to mention about the wire for the inverter, forget the welding wire, it is flexible and available at Tractor Supply and you have choice of two sizes 2Ga and 4Ga but it is expensive. I found a better deal on 1/0 X flex wire for $1.95 ft plus shipping from SKYCRAFT
(page 3 of the link). They also have some different marine wire in various gauges.
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