trainnut200 wrote: I will pull the headlight switch and see if AutoZone or VIP can match it. Is this a Ford part? Thanks for the help >>>
Have them pull out a switch for an '89 Thunderbird to start the comparison. My motorhome is a Winnebago product on an Oshkosh chassis. The heating and lighting controls are Ford. Yours may be different, but it is a start.
Remember, when you buy the headlamp switch you are only buying time. Having the lights relayed directly from the battery would be a preferable upgrade. Another option is to buy two switches so that you have a spare when the first one fails within a year or two.
FYI: there is a metal plunger button on switch housing that allows the pull knob to be released. I forgot this and almost ruined the pull knob trying to pull it out of the switch.
'93 Itasca Suncrusier diesel towing a '97 Olds Cutlass.
Bob, Pam(DW), Bridget(DD), Christine(DD) and Snickers the stinky dog
See you at most of the Penn State tailgates
I would pull one of the headlights and see if it has power coming to it. If you do then check and see if the headlights are good. Yes I know it's rare but you can burn out two at the same time.
2002 Damon Challenger 348 Ford V10
Blue Ox Auto Stop and Aventa II Tow Bar
2001 Ford Sport Trac with Remco Driveshaft Disconnect
There are a couple of things you might check. you have already established that there is no voltage present at the headlight connector. Pull the connector off at the switch end and see if you can find 12V present at that connector. If you do have 12V present, with your multi meter set to ohms and the switch in the ON position, probe from the corrsonding terminal on the switch where 12V was found to all other terminals to see if you have continuety through the switch.
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