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 > Where to get valves for RV plumbing?

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marka123

Poland, OH

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Posted: 08/20/08 02:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Howdy,

I've got an '84 Pathfinder class A. The water heater & other plumbing is all done with plastic hose, on the order of 3/4" OD (I've not measured, that's a guess). Looks like most of the connections are a crimp connection, presumable done with special tools, etc.

I'd like to add a valve, so that I can shut off water to the hot water heater while still having water to the rest of the RV. What do I need to do for this? Can I get valves that will mate up to the plastic stuff? Compression fittings for those or glued or ??

I've done the typical DIY stuff with threaded & sweated fittings for normal home plumbing, but haven't ever done it on an RV. Appreciate any pointers.

Thanks!

Mark

ejforwood

Littleton (Denver) Colorado

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Posted: 08/20/08 02:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Home Depot. I believe it's called Pex. You can get Shark fittings that are like compression fittings or just use the regular glued together fittings that you now have. There are gray fittings and pipe that are usually used in homes and almond colored ones. I have the almond colored pipes in my rig.


Jerry, Dottie & Chan, "the little furry one"
98 Bounder 34V, 99 F-53 Ford V10 chassis
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Bonefish

Midland, TX

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Posted: 08/20/08 02:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It should be stamped on the PEX pipe. I believe fitting are based on the inside diameter. Will save yourself a few trips.
Bonefish





wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 08/20/08 03:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First.. You should already HAVE such a valve, it's your water heater bypass valve. It may be a single valve with two or 3 positions (Normal/Bypass(Off)) or it may be a collection of 3 valves in what looks like an "H" configuration (Two go to the water heater the other valve is a cross over) but you should already have them

The valves themselves are standard hardware store items, any hardware, plumbing shop, lowes, Home depot and such has 'em in stock.

The connectors are likely PEX and you can get those at an RV store GET THEM FIRST so you get the right size valve


Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


ejforwood

Littleton (Denver) Colorado

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Posted: 08/20/08 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wa8yxm wrote:

First.. You should already HAVE such a valve, it's your water heater bypass valve.

Don't be so sure. It was built in 1984!

marka123

Poland, OH

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Posted: 08/20/08 08:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Howdy,

Yeah, there's no water heater bypass setup at all. If the water pump is running, the water heater is getting water.

What's the point of a water heater bypass setup (that feeds the hot lines with cold water when the water heater is bypassed) vs just having a shut off valve on the suppy line to the water heater? Is it just so that you can get water from the hot taps as well? I don't care about that...

The pipes don't seem to have anything stamped on them. They're grey, and the connections look to be either glued & crimped or just crimped together. The water heater & faucet & such have threaded connectors. Still sound like PEX?

Thanks for the help!

Mark

itsalleasy

USA

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Posted: 08/20/08 08:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A bypass will let you winterize the hot water lines past the water heater without filling the water heater. If you are going to install 1 valve I would install all 3. You will save the money the valves cost by not using so much antifreeze.

If it is pex it will have bands at the fittings, and if it is gray it is probably pex.

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 08/20/08 08:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ejforwood wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:

First.. You should already HAVE such a valve, it's your water heater bypass valve.

Don't be so sure. It was built in 1984!


Should, not WILL.. (That's why I said Should.. He should have one, Don't mean he does, DOn't matter when it was built.. Winters got cold enough to destroy heaters in 1984, 1974, 1964 0004. and bypass kits have been sold ... Well.. I know since before 1980 (I can't say when they started selling 'em) since they use an identical kit on home water softeners.

Now: From what the O/P says.. IT appears that though he should. He Don't

So to the OP.. Consider getting 3 valves and doing a full bypass system

greenrvgreen

open road

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Posted: 08/20/08 09:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You don't have PEX, you have PEX's predecesor, polybutylene, which I don't think is sold anymore. And I would be stunned if they're 3/4" OD pipes, but maybe. I'm betting on 5/8" OD, or 1/2".

Lowe's, etc will have valves to tie in, but you really need to bring them a sample, or you'll make multiple trips.

PolyB doesn't have much good going for it; I just tore all of mine out and replaced with gen-u-ine PEX. I bought the horrendously expensive push-on fittings, and my remaining sanity thanks me for it. They work great and were very easy to work with. And expensive.

marka123

Poland, OH

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Posted: 08/20/08 10:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Howdy,

What I have is grey lines, with bands at the fittings. No markings on the lines at all that I can see.

They may well be 5/8" or even 1/2" OD... 3/4" was a total guess from memory.

I'd really rather be able to buy the valves & such I'll need before I start cutting away at the system... If its PEX or polybutylene, is there a way to determing what I'll need by measuring the OD or something else?

I'd really rather add a valve (or three) vs. replumb the entire RV btw... :-)

Mark

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