Busskipper wrote: While everyone will do what works for them, the important thing is to do something. With really cold weather just around the corner – now is the time to WINTERIZE if you are in the Cold Zone.
In my case, I would always use the Pink Stuff when I winterized, until I left the Coach with the manufacturer, during the winter, a few years back. Their choice of winterization was to blow it out with air – no taste issues, no problems and if you follow the steps – and are sure you do everything, it is not only effective but also easy and works fine, allowing you to pack up and use the Coach on a moments notice, without a lot of troubles and bad tastes. (do not forget the ice maker)
One of the many sites with instructions on Winterization;
Another thing I have done over the years is add the 150 watt bulbs in the basement, just to keep out the DEEP freeze but that’s a separate issue, for another post.
JMHO,
From an older Post,
Busskipper
Maryland/Colorado
Travel Supreme 42DS04
MDX-FMCA--M&G Brake
States traveled in this Coach
DDinCincy wrote: It's interesting how most of the anti-freeze crowd refers to "the right way" or blowing out as "half a-sed". It looks to me as there are two viable ways to accomplish winterizing and when done properly both are equally effective at protecting the system. Pick one, it is not a choice between right and wrong.
Quite correct! It might be interesting to note that those who do not use anti-freeze would probably start using it if they ever had a problem - we just don't! But as you point out - pick one and get 'er done!
Dave
Ditto. I was shown how to winterize my first coach (air only) by the prevous owner. So I had the confidence (mostly his) that method works-it did.
It was his coach for five years before I bought it. My reluctance to use the pink stuff is two fold; don't want it in the lines and it adds another step I simply don't need. I believe "air only" has some specific requirements. A custom made or store bought fitting from air hose to coach needs to be used. Do not allow any air loss. After I've moved from fawcet to fawcet spitting water to only air I'm confident
the lines are dry (enough). Last reqirement is pump needs to be running for a minute or two while your blowing the lines. This method has worked for me on two different coach's and eight winters.
A simple question for the "anti-freeze is the only way" crowd; Do any of you have underground sprinklers at your stick house? Is so, how do you winterize them? My system has the pipes about 6 inches underground, and it is winterized ONLY by air pressure. Every fall, the guy comes around with his high-volume trailer mounted air compressor, and blows the water out of the lines. No anti-freeze is used.
How is that any different than blowing out the little pipes in an RV?
I have used air for years, with no problems. I even use filtered air from my Campbell Hausfeld compressor.
But then, I live in the "Banana belt", SOUTH central Montana, where it only stays below zero for a week or so at a time. Those who live in the REAL cold country may HAVE to use anti-freeze, I wouldn't know about that.
Nascar11fan:
Best way to do a washing machine is to blow out the lines. With air pressure applied, operate timer so air blows through the water valve, making sure it is in both hot and cold water mode.
Dump some pink stuff into bowl to protect pump and trap on discharge. Operate in discharge mode for a few seconds to insure it has moved the pink stuff.
I blow out the water lines with my air compressor and open all the low point drains and drian the HW tank. Then I put pink stuff in the drains and toilets. We do not get a hard freeze for a prolonged time, worst months for us for a freeze is January and February where night time may go down into low 30's but during the day it is back into 60's. My dealer's Service Manager said I could just empty HW tank and open low point drains without any problems but, I go the extra steps. Camping World now has a new hose that attaches to the city water connector and your air compressor.
mowermech wrote: But then, I live in the "Banana belt", SOUTH central Montana, where it only stays below zero for a week or so at a time. Those who live in the REAL cold country may HAVE to use anti-freeze, I wouldn't know about that.
Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis
2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes,
ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
old guy wrote: I used to think cheap like you once, only once tho'. I learn not to do a half a--ed job when it comes to winterizing. I had to replace a lot of water pipes the next spring because apparently I did not get all the water out of the pipes. some joints had water settle in them and cracked. Now I do the job thoroughly and use air plus pink stuff. come heck or high water, I don't want to do that again, replace pipes that is. I've added some gadgets to my water system to aid in making the job easier.
Antifreeze is cheap compared to repairing a busted line, faucet, washer, etc....Gee, it's easy to do.....I winterized my MH at a CG in North Carolina evey year when I head back north.
2007 Itasca Ellipse 40FD
Lucy 4 yr old Lakeland Terrier, 6-1-05 Gatlinburg, RV Campsite-Most recent trip
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