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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > How to Test Diesel Fuel Shutdown Solenoid

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deandec

El Dorado Hills, CA

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Joined: 09/26/2001

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Posted: 07/25/09 06:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, I pulled the solenoid on my Power Technology 7.0 Generator that will not continue to run.

It is a plunger type solenoid with three wires leading to it.

When I power the White and Black wires, the plunger retracts and extends rapidly.

When I power the Red (positive) and Black (negative) wires and push the plunger in, it does not stay in.

So, I am guessing that the plunger shuts off the fuel rack when it is extended and allows fuel to flow when it is retracted.

The plunger will not stay retracted so the solenoid is not working. Since this looks like a $175 solenoid, I'd like to verify my thinking.

Can anyone comment on the above results?

Thanks


Dean
95 CC Magna, Jeep GC


mytime

Winter Snowbird-somewhere

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Posted: 07/25/09 06:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You will probably get better results if you ask your question here:http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Country-Coach-Owners/messages?o=1


2007 Country Coach, Allure 470, 42',ISL Cummins 400, 2008 Trailblazer TV, Blackhawk and Brakemaster.


charwan

Dawsonville, Ga.

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Good Sam RV Club


Posted: 07/25/09 06:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I were testing it I would have removed it and then plugged it back up and turned the switch back on and saw what happened. It should be spring loaded to close with no voltage. You just can't go around putting 12 volts on things any more. The voltage should pull it open and when the voltage drops should shut off the fuel. The other red wire may not have anything to do with it opening or closing, may work something else. M2CENTS


N4FAP

deandec

El Dorado Hills, CA

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Joined: 09/26/2001

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Posted: 07/26/09 09:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mytime, great idea. I have been a member there since 2001. I posted the problem last evening and Mike Cebula responded with all the info I needed. I have copied his post below because it has some excellent information for this problem.

Quote:

Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Fuel Shutdown Solenoid on Power Technology 7.0K Generator


Your thinking is correct. One coil in the solenoid is high-current and
is used to initially 'pick' the solenoid and retract the plunger. The
second coil is to 'hold' the solenoid plunger retracted and continually
allow fuel to flow. That second coil takes much less current and is
usually controlled by a 'run' relay or control circuit - depending on
the setup. Low oil pressure, high water temp are some of the things that
can turn off the run relay. Had to replace mine on the Cummins a few
years back and your description of the problem is almost exactly what
mine was - except mine was that hold coil heated up and gradually lost
its ability to hold the solenoid retracted. This was a known problem and
Cummins had a heavier-duty solenoid as a replacement that also required
the mounting for it be changed out.

I'm not aware of these fuel solenoids working any other way.

Since you have the solenoid in your hand and can't get one of the coils
to keep the solenoid in, you're heading to the parts dealer.

Incidentally, holding the start on for extended periods of time can
overheat the coil and burn it out. There are generally safeguards
against this (thermistors, oil pressure interlock, etc.) - not sure if
they are employed on small diesel engines. However, if you have had hard
starting problems where the 'pick' coil was active for a long time,
that's probably what eventually caused the coil burnout.

Mike
'95 Magna 5266
Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Fuel Shutdown Solenoid on Power Technology 7.0K Generator


Your thinking is correct. One coil in the solenoid is high-current and
is used to initially 'pick' the solenoid and retract the plunger. The
second coil is to 'hold' the solenoid plunger retracted and continually
allow fuel to flow. That second coil takes much less current and is
usually controlled by a 'run' relay or control circuit - depending on
the setup. Low oil pressure, high water temp are some of the things that
can turn off the run relay. Had to replace mine on the Cummins a few
years back and your description of the problem is almost exactly what
mine was - except mine was that hold coil heated up and gradually lost
its ability to hold the solenoid retracted. This was a known problem and
Cummins had a heavier-duty solenoid as a replacement that also required
the mounting for it be changed out.

I'm not aware of these fuel solenoids working any other way.

Since you have the solenoid in your hand and can't get one of the coils
to keep the solenoid in, you're heading to the parts dealer.

Incidentally, holding the start on for extended periods of time can
overheat the coil and burn it out. There are generally safeguards
against this (thermistors, oil pressure interlock, etc.) - not sure if
they are employed on small diesel engines. However, if you have had hard
starting problems where the 'pick' coil was active for a long time,
that's probably what eventually caused the coil burnout.

Mike
'95 Magna 5266


deandec

El Dorado Hills, CA

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Joined: 09/26/2001

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Posted: 07/26/09 09:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry about the double posting of quote, but the editor will not let me remove one or the other of the quotes. So there it is.

TEXAS

Centerville Tx

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Posted: 07/26/09 09:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree with Mike except for one item. Under normal starting the start position will not hurt the coil. Because if the solenoid is set up correctly. When the pull in coil brings the rod all the way in the holding coil will cut power to it. The pull in coil does draw a lot of power and most of the time it is the first to go out.So when you set yours up. Make sure the rod is clean and bottoms out in the solenoid. When it is all the way in. The hold in coil takes over and cuts power to the pull in coil.

TEXAS

Centerville Tx

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Posted: 07/26/09 09:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Reread Mikes post. I was wrong. Yes if you have a starting problem it can burn out the pull in coil. If it does not in under a minute let it rest before you try starting it again. Oil pressure or AC output would be a signal for the hold in coil to take over. It should start in less 20 seconds.

deandec

El Dorado Hills, CA

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Joined: 09/26/2001

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Posted: 07/26/09 12:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Texas, thanks for the comments.

My pull in coil works and has 12.6V to it.

I measured the volts with the Start button pressed to the "run" coil and had @2.6V. Mike indicates that run coil operates on a lower voltage. So that result would be expected.

I then put the direct 12.6V to the "run" coil terminals and pressed the plunger into the housing.

The plunger would not stay retracted. (I got these instructions from a Kubota Tractor Forum where the D-905 engine is also used.)

I am assuming that the problem is the last test and it was a failure so the solenoid needs to be replaced. Would you agree?

TEXAS

Centerville Tx

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Joined: 08/17/2003

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Posted: 07/26/09 02:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would say your coil is bad. Because the hold coil should keep it in until the loss of power.

ufgator

fl

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Posted: 07/26/09 05:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

post the part # of the solenoid. I just purchased one and it was $85 total.

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