I just took the overhead bunk and one wall out of my class C and reframed it because it had some wood rot. I have it all back together now and have re-applied the tin, but I atill need to apply the mouldings and butyl seals. I re-shaped the nose cone because it wasn't square so my moulding isn't going to fit the curve anymore. I am thinking about starting with new moulding but I noticed that the old moulding is very strong and does not want to bend. How do you shape it and make it fit? I have always cleaned and re used my mouldings in the past.
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Thanks but what I am working with is the exterior aluminum moulding. I don't know what the proper name is for it but if it was flat it would be called transition moulding. It is similar but the edge rolls around to cover the side. It fits a 1" strip of vinyl trim when complete. I was told a long time ago it is not worth cleaning the flat transition strip but that curved trim should always be saved because it is very difficult to shape.
The problem is I took out about an inch of curve in the nose cone when I framed it to make the wood fit better so the curve in the trim will not fit anymore.
I would think that if you just start with a few screws in and bend it and around the curve and apply one screw at a time it should work but I don't know for sure.
If I leave out the butyl and dry fit it first I don't think the shape will be quite right and if I layer it up with butyl first it will be very unforgiving to work with.
Can someone who has done this before please advise.
From your description most likely it is extruded and formed on a bender to keep it from collapsing. The best you can do is flatten it, find something round about the size of the bend and reshape. The flange that holds the vinyl strip in place will collapse but with a little patience you will be able to lift it enough to insert the vinyl again. Work it a little at a time, aluminum is soft. Trying to do too much will leave points that are pretty obvious.
As Argosy said, and on those points where the vinyl goes into that might pinch shut, try putting some tin strips in there before you bend to keep it open. You might want to but some sand in cloth bag and shape it some then use that as mold and lightly work as a form tool. Good Luck Bill
I instaled all of my mouldings today with the exception of the one that I have to re-contour. Someone out there must have done the same thing as I am doing. Please advise. How do you fit this complex moulding to the curve of the bed overhang. Is there a bending tool like an electrical conduit bender? or do you just start with a few screws and force it with hand pressure?
As stated, fill the groves with a piece of sheet metal that is almost the full width and height needed. Use vaseline to cover the piece before sliding into the molding.
Locate a radius larger than is required, steel pipe would be excellent (lite pole, culvert, barrel ?), then with a leather glove hand, SLOWLY form the molding to a radius, then form the end of the molding over a radius almost too the required radius.
Use a small pair of vise grips on the SM sliding the SM out 3" or so, then screw down the molding, then pull the SM 3", then screw, repeat until finished.
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jhanratt wrote: Is there a bending tool like an electrical conduit bender? or do you just start with a few screws and force it with hand pressure?
There's tons of different benders from hand to hydraulic powered. But are you are going to spend from a few hundred to thousands of dollars to make a couple of bends? After you buy the bender you have to buy a die of the proper size, and that will probably be custom made. The only way to do it economically is by hand with the suggestions offered, it is done all the time building custom vehicles and making one off parts.
You can try forcing it by hand, if it doesn't work you haven't lost anything. But you will have better luck if it has the basic correct form first.
Thank you for the advice. I had a shop cut me a piece of tin on a sheer to fill the grooves for the vinyl to ensure it didn't collapse. I then started by screwing down the flat stretch of moulding. When I got to the corner I slid the tin by tapping it with a hammer and small right angle dolly. I then formed one screw length at a time and moved the tin one section at a time. I lubricated the tin with dishsoap and water. It all worked out pretty well but when I took it back off and applied the butyl It changed the gap a little and the screws didn't line up after the curve. I sort of thought that might happen but I wanted to dry fit it first. Oh well I used three layers of butyl so I am quite sure it is sealed up tight.
Thanks again for the advice. I really appreciate the great ideas available from the people on this site. For example I never would have thought to fill the gap with a tin strip and now I would have had hours of time trying to re-fit the loulding to accept the vinyl strip.
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