CDWall
Advance, NC
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Without going into detail about how this happened (embarrassed icon) about 15 gallons of water overflowed from my shower stall onto the bathroom floor. I mopped up all that I could find but it's still dripping from underneath the MH now two hours later. It's coming from under the shower stall and under the back bed, where the water tank is. The MH must be slightly angled to the back end because it seems contained in the far rear.
I've got everything open, fans on, etc. Any advice about what else I can do to minimize damage? And what kind of long term damage should I expect?
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craziecritter
Garner, N.C.
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If you have carpet in the bedroom area I would get a wet/dry vac or carpet cleaner and keep sucking up that water. Our hot water heater busted in our stick built. 40 gallons of water in the hallway and bedroom. We soaked it up with tons of towels, but when we got the wet/dry vac out and carpet cleaner out we were still surprised how much more water was really there. Keep the windows open and keep running fans. Good Luck.
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CDWall
Advance, NC
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Thanks. No carpet just linoleum.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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This happened in our last Class C. Took awhile to dry but I never saw that the coach was the worst for it. Just be sure it's totally dry before you close it up. You can rent a dehumidifier to aid the process, but we had carpet and didn't, were still OK.
God Bless, jd
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Admiral
Upstate Ohio
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If the water got into the insulation (fiberglass) and can't dry out due to the linoleum floor/belly liner sandwich, it will eventually rot out the wood it touches. This may take several years. Flex in the floors will be the first sign of trouble.
You may be able to drill a few one inch holes in the bottom to insert a wet vac hose to help dry it out but plug them later.
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CDWall
Advance, NC
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Thanks for the info. Pretty scary stuff. I thought about drilling small holes in the bottom but thought I see what people here had to say.
The water only got on the floor in the back. Would it make its way up the insulation in the walls? Perhaps I should go check my info on the materials used to build the MH. It's a 23' Phoenix Cruiser.
Thanks again to all for your responses.
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lat471
Lebanon, PA
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You should be looking underneath and try to gain acces there. That's where you'll have problems and need the fans. If its insulated you have to pull the fiberglass if it's foam you should be alright. Did that to my last rv and it had foam insulation when I drove home my friend who was behind me said water splashed out everytime we hit a bump. It was dry after 5 hrs of driving.
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CDWall
Advance, NC
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lat471 wrote:You should be looking underneath and try to gain acces there. That's where you'll have problems and need the fans. If its insulated you have to pull the fiberglass if it's foam you should be alright.
Yikes. It is the underneath I'm looking at but haven't gained access to anything yet. I can't get to the inside part anyway. It's under the water tank and shower stall.
Here's what it says about the construction on the Phoenix site:
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/features.htm
•Smooth Vacu-Bond Laminated Gel-Coat Fiberglass Exterior
•2-1/8" Thick Floor, Tubular Steel Construction
•Strong, Long-Lasting 1/4" Plastic Fluted Sheet Underbelly
•Rubber Pucks Between Floor & Frame for Smoother Ride and Road Noise Reduction
•Moisture-Proof Plywood as Flooring Sub-Base
•1-1/2" Thick Wall, Aluminum Cage Construction
•Metal Framing Around All Openings (Windows, Doors, etc)
•Block Foam Insulation in Roof, Floors & Sidewalls
******************
Can anybody give specific advice based on this type of construction?
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Admiral
Upstate Ohio
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Looks like that construction would be least conducive for water penetration. Best of all is no fiberglass insulation. Yes!
Maybe try drying it out above the underbelly if you can ventilate it for a while
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ron.dittmer
I Will Be Dancing With The Stars On 1/23
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CDWall,
I too have a Phoenix Cruiser, model 2350. Ours is a 2007. This is the construction of a Phoenix Cruiser floor. I got it off their slide show presentation on how PCs are made.
I advise to jack up the passenger front tire as high as possible to direct all water into the far corner of the shower pan in the driver's rear, and let it drip until done.
The metal framed walls are set on top of the steel framed floor with moisture-proof plywood decking which is also covered in linoleum, so I think the water will continue to flow out between the floor and wall harmlessly, dripping safely out.
If you look close, it looks like there is a big rectangular hole for the hot and cold water. Maybe you could stick a vaccuum cleaner tube up that hole, and blow into it, warm air to circulate under there nicely for 12 hours or so for assurance.
* This post was
edited 10/02/09 03:06pm by ron.dittmer *
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