One side result for your wife is she will know where you are in your spare time. When rebuilding the interior keep in mind the weight of all the items so you don't get one side overweight compared to the other, or front to rear also.
bsinmich wrote: One side result for your wife is she will know where you are in your spare time. When rebuilding the interior keep in mind the weight of all the items so you don't get one side overweight compared to the other, or front to rear also.
Thanks bsinmich, on the weight. But on the wife part, I gave up after my second marriage went down hill. I just have a girlfriend now that lives two hours away.
OK, I got a little more work done on the RV. I found the worst leak! It was the roof vent over the bath. I guess after all the years, the plastic vent top dried out and became brittle.
I tore out the closet that was next to it thinking I would remove the shower unit. Wrong! I found two rafters that ran from the entrance door and went over top of the bath, The only thing holding them up right now is the interior bathroom wall.
If I remove the wall now the roof want have enough support and if a big snow comes then goodbye roof. I may try tearing it out tomorrow and hope I have enough room to set a couple of braces.
bg...., a couple of items that I have mentioned before to other re-builders that I had included in my rebuild.
1. Maybe a little early, in that sky lite photo. or any outside wall/roof penetrations-- Pella the window people, makes a 4" wide x1/16" thick foil back, rubbery, sticky tape. Their purpose for it is to make a water proof seal around their window fastening flanges/to studs. Use this to pre-cover the raw wood framing of the doors/windows/roof openings edges. going slightly over the outside & inside edges. Thus if any future leaks ac cure it can not get into the wood framing It will only take an additional small step.
2. If you have the money & can find a source in your area. In the construction world there is a commercial, expandable spray on foam that covers EVERYTHING tight stud to stud. They use a roller guide with a hot wire between to cut down the insulation smooth & even too & on the inside of the studs when cured. This stuff adds rigidity to the outside skin & inside wall board, (especially when inside walls board fastens to the suds sandwiching the two together) seals all penetrations, thus no air leaks, no fuss with bats or cutting rigid board. You would have to plan ahead before erecting any inside walls in order to allow a swift and easy access. Maybe driving to the company.
3. A good old iron worker friend of mine, turned me on to a caulking years ago, called Sikaflex. (Google it) It has a very good rep. for elasticity,long lasting, sticking to everything, sealant, when applied to a clean surface. But be aware, do not drive around or leave out side in the wind & dust until it has cured.
4. Douglas fur is a rot resistant wood, and available. If you use pine, take the time to apply a fast drying sealant, Water base Polly., very, very little odor, water clean up, dries fast, 2" roller works great & fast.
5. All rigid foam boards are not the same. The blue stuff is a lot denser, can be walked on, with crushing. Be carefull of the glue you buy for foam board, some will eat right into it.
6. Sit down and thing ahead where there might remotely be the need for an inside wall re-enforcements---towel bars, shower curtain rods, window/door valances, clock, coat hooks, wall shelf/storages cubical, bunk beds, moose heads, jack openings, etc's Then run & fasten a 1x 8 across between studs.
7. Make a detailed sketch of the measured locations of you stud, rafter locations for futher referances.
OK how my brother got the pixs of this RV on here I just dont know yet Anyway I have the RV now and have started a total rebuild on this thing have everything torn out and the rear is opened up there is rot at all the rear and all of the driver side so this build will be from the floor up to the roofand can be found on this RV form when I learn how to work it.
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