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 > Need input on leaving stick house for several months

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snowyowl.13

PEI

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Posted: 11/10/09 05:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We will be doing this for the first time. we will follow the same method used by people with summer places. A plumber will come in and blow out the lines and add antifreeze to all drains. He will also winterize the washer etc. All heat will then be turned off. If we don't do things that way then insurance would insist that someone enter the house daily to check for frozen pipes etc. Total cost of the plumber - $85. Neighbours will keep a general eye on the place. There won't be any snow removal so access to the house should be fairly difficult without a snowmobile. The post office has a mail forwarding service that costs about $24 per month for the first two months of our three month trip. We'll get them to hold the mail for the last month.
As I said this will be our first time doing a trip of this length so I may have overlooked a better approach but sdo so far that's how i plan to organize things.


Dan
Prince Edward Island
http://www3.islandtelecom.com/dankennedy/


Denny & Jami

Home Base Nebraska Avon Park Fl for the winter

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Posted: 11/10/09 06:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

snowyowl.13 wrote:

We will be doing this for the first time. we will follow the same method used by people with summer places. A plumber will come in and blow out the lines and add antifreeze to all drains. He will also winterize the washer etc. All heat will then be turned off. If we don't do things that way then insurance would insist that someone enter the house daily to check for frozen pipes etc. Total cost of the plumber - $85. Neighbours will keep a general eye on the place. There won't be any snow removal so access to the house should be fairly difficult without a snowmobile. The post office has a mail forwarding service that costs about $24 per month for the first two months of our three month trip. We'll get them to hold the mail for the last month.
As I said this will be our first time doing a trip of this length so I may have overlooked a better approach but sdo so far that's how i plan to organize things.


Your plan sounds great except for the turning the heat off. We leave ours set at 45 not for the pipes but for the sheet rock and wall paper. We leave ours for 6 to 11 months at a time with the heat at 45 in the winter and A/C at 85 in the summer also the pipes are blown out with air and RV antifreeze in the drains.

Denny


2000 F350 SC DRW V10 4.30 gears, Banks Cat Back, BrakeSmart, Air Lifts
2003 HitchHiker Premier 35FKTG

indiana_pilot

Highland, In

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Posted: 11/10/09 11:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

snowyowl.13 wrote:

We will be doing this for the first time. we will follow the same method used by people with summer places. A plumber will come in and blow out the lines and add antifreeze to all drains. He will also winterize the washer etc. All heat will then be turned off. If we don't do things that way then insurance would insist that someone enter the house daily to check for frozen pipes etc. Total cost of the plumber - $85. Neighbours will keep a general eye on the place. There won't be any snow removal so access to the house should be fairly difficult without a snowmobile. The post office has a mail forwarding service that costs about $24 per month for the first two months of our three month trip. We'll get them to hold the mail for the last month.
As I said this will be our first time doing a trip of this length so I may have overlooked a better approach but sdo so far that's how i plan to organize things.


The snow not getting shoveled is going to be my main concern. You can leave lights on timers, stop mail and move vehicles, but if the house never gets the snow removed that's a sure sign no ones home.

bojumill

central AZ

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Posted: 11/10/09 08:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

when we leave for the winter 8 or 9 months
we have a friend get our mail & mail it to us once a month
we get vac mode on phone
we turn off the water, drain water heater , blow out & drain water lines, put R V anti freeze in water p-traps.dump water from toilet tank
have someone rake leaves, mow lawn if needed.
turn off nat. gas at meter, unplug fan on heater
and leave and have a good time some place warm

Bob & Judy


Bob & Judy Miller
Pam the Watch Cat
1986 Pace Arrow


1989 Jeep Cherokee 4 wheel drive & Blue Ox Tow Bar


snowyowl.13

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Posted: 11/11/09 05:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We live about 300 yds from the road so it's a bit of a toss up whether a snow filled driveway protects us or invites trouble. Our hydro company recommends turning the electricity right off. Unless a house is really airtight (ours isn't) there shouldn't be moisture problems. Time will tell!.

RCMAN46

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Posted: 11/11/09 08:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We are planning a three month stay in Arizona this year. We are going to use the low heat setting. I would recommend when you turn off the heat to the water heater to run a hot water facet until the water is cold. Much like I do when I put the 5th wheel away after each trip. Less chance of bacteria getting a foothold and multiplying. I think leaving the tank full would be better than draining it. There is no air in the tank when it is full. Again
I think bactereia would not have as good of a chance on getting a foothold.

Deus Ex Machina

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Posted: 11/11/09 09:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RCMAN46 wrote:

We are planning a three month stay in Arizona this year. We are going to use the low heat setting. I would recommend when you turn off the heat to the water heater to run a hot water facet until the water is cold. Much like I do when I put the 5th wheel away after each trip. Less chance of bacteria getting a foothold and multiplying. I think leaving the tank full would be better than draining it. There is no air in the tank when it is full. Again
I think bactereia would not have as good of a chance on getting a foothold.


The water in your water heater will cool to ambient temperature in about 24 hours anyway after it is shut off. Running it till it is cold is just a waste of resources and accomplishes nothing.

No more risk of bacteria in the water heater that there is in any of the rest of the plumbing. It is just a bigger diameter "pipe". It is a closed system with no air, and clorinated if it is city water. You are doing extra work for no added benefit.


Paul

RCMAN46

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Posted: 11/11/09 04:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Deus Ex Machina wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:

We are planning a three month stay in Arizona this year. We are going to use the low heat setting. I would recommend when you turn off the heat to the water heater to run a hot water facet until the water is cold. Much like I do when I put the 5th wheel away after each trip. Less chance of bacteria getting a foothold and multiplying. I think leaving the tank full would be better than draining it. There is no air in the tank when it is full. Again
I think bactereia would not have as good of a chance on getting a foothold.


The water in your water heater will cool to ambient temperature in about 24 hours anyway after it is shut off. Running it till it is cold is just a waste of resources and accomplishes nothing.

No more risk of bacteria in the water heater that there is in any of the rest of the plumbing. It is just a bigger diameter "pipe". It is a closed system with no air, and clorinated if it is city water. You are doing extra work for no added benefit.
Then why does the water in my RV tank go bad at times??? It is also a closed system.

Deus Ex Machina

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Posted: 11/11/09 07:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RCMAN46 wrote:

Deus Ex Machina wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:

We are planning a three month stay in Arizona this year. We are going to use the low heat setting. I would recommend when you turn off the heat to the water heater to run a hot water facet until the water is cold. Much like I do when I put the 5th wheel away after each trip. Less chance of bacteria getting a foothold and multiplying. I think leaving the tank full would be better than draining it. There is no air in the tank when it is full. Again
I think bactereia would not have as good of a chance on getting a foothold.


The water in your water heater will cool to ambient temperature in about 24 hours anyway after it is shut off. Running it till it is cold is just a waste of resources and accomplishes nothing.

No more risk of bacteria in the water heater that there is in any of the rest of the plumbing. It is just a bigger diameter "pipe". It is a closed system with no air, and clorinated if it is city water. You are doing extra work for no added benefit.
Then why does the water in my RV tank go bad at times??? It is also a closed system.


Because an RV system is constantly being exposed to air through the tank vent, and through connecting and disconnecting the water connection. Also the fact that it is often drained between trips exposing the damp insides of the plumbing to massive amounts of air.

Your home plumbing system is subject to none of this. If you look at survival/desaster preparedness sites, they say that plain tap water in a sealed container is good for 6 months to a year or more depending on conditions. So replacing the hot water in your WH with cold vs letting it cool on it's own makes no difference in the long run.

Now I DRAIN my water heater before leaving camp, but this is for weight savings, not any bacteria concerns. In fact, I'd have less chance of bacteria by leaving it full (hot or not). My RV is right at it's GVWR even with all the water drained, that's why I do it.

Also consider this, even when a house system is drained for the winter (as in a vacation home), in the spring people just close the drain vales, open the main, and go on with life. It only seems to be the RVing crowd that has this obsession with germophobia.

rsherrie

Littleton,CO

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Posted: 11/11/09 07:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

thgoodman wrote:

OK, here's something not too many people know about home owners insurance until it's too late and they have a claim. Check your policy and check with your agent. When I had a stick house and went to FL for the winter I found out that my policy was written so that if the house was unoccupied for more than 30 days and something happened, the insurance company would (probably) pay the claim but cancel my policy. When we actually did start full timing, we hadn't sold the house yet. I could only buy a commercial fire insurance policy to cover it. Not as much coverage as a home owner policy and 2x the cost.


Many good suggestions but this one is VERY important as we had neighbors who had weather caused damage while gone and had to fight to get their claim paid as they were gone over thirty days. CHECK WITH YOUR INSURANCE!!

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