professor95 wrote: Recently (10/1/11) mskobier wrote a post pertaining to the low speed adjustment screw on the CPE2000i carburetor that is factory sealed with a cap. The cap is there to prevent "tampering" per EPA requirements.
If you should find a need to make an adjustment to the low speed function of your CPE2000i - perhaps to alleviate burping - follow the directions given previously by mskobier. To assist with his well written explanation I have made some photos. For clarity, the carburetor is removed from the engine.
This is the cap that needs to be removed if you have a need to adjust the jet setting. Once removed, there is no reason to replace the cap.
I took this one off by punching it with an awl then popping it out.
The needle valve (jet) has been removed from the orifice. Also something needed if cleaning the carb. Mine was 3 turns to full seating. Do not over tighten the needle when checking for the factory adjustment or it may damage the seat or break the needle off.
NEW SUBJECT
This is the MAIN jet, which is accessed by removing the float bowl. It is easily unscrewed from the carburetor.
The main jet is approximately .025 in diameter inside. To clean the main jet I use a set of welding tip reamers available from most any welding supply or home store selling welders. If you feel a need to make the jet larger to keep the mixture from being so lean (another EPA requirement) you can use this tool to enlarge the jet size.
NOTE: Making any adjustments could void your EPA emissions warranty and certification.
I took apart the carb on one of my units today. It had started a very rhythmic idle hunt while in both econo and full speed. I was expecting to find the jet plugged since I haven't used this particular unit in a few weeks, but the bowl and jet were clean.
Pulled the idle/air screw plug and tried to screw the needle in and found it was already at full closed position. The end of the needle looks similar to yours in your picture. Kind of distorted from bottoming out. I ended up at 4 1/2 turns out to calm the idle hunt.
Afterwards I adjusted the low idle speed screw. It made a huge difference in the amount of time it took the genny to kick up when a load was placed on it while in econo mode.
* This post was
edited 10/09/11 12:06am by #40Fan *
2005 Keystone Outback Sydney 31RQS
2011 Ram 2500 CC LB CTD G56 3.42 Mineral Gray
The EF2400is will do 2000W all day, 2400W peak, has a 171cc motor vs the Honda's 98.5cc motor. Weight, gas consumption, etc is all higher on the EF2400. If the EF2000is is not comparable to the Honda EU2000, then the EU2000 is absolutely not comparable to the EF2400 per your same rules.
Very interesting. I honestly did not realize that the EF2400is has a 171cc motor.
This begs a new question. Why did Yamaha elect to more than double the displacement of the engine to gain only 400 watts?
I'm not knocking anything - this is an honest to goodness question as to why. (We may never have an answer from Yamaha.)
BTW - my Kipor KGE2000i is 105cc and page 35 of the manual shows the specifications. In one block they say it is rated for 13.3 amps output and then in another block cite 1.8 KVA (15 amps) as "nominal" and 2.0 KVA as maximum. It does not have a circuit breaker and I have coached to about 2,100 watts (resistive) before going into overload. But, the engine is most definitely not running at the 4500 rated RPM at 2,100 watts - it is struggling. I have not tried to determine how long it would hold 2,100 watts but I do know it can do it for at least a minute.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.
I too noticed the size of the 2400 yammy is more than double the size of the 2000 yammy, been looking at a yammy 4500 pretty hard.
Papa Bob
1* DW "Granny"
1* 2008 Brookside by Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"
professor95 wrote: The Yamaha 2000i is known to exhibit quirks similar to the ones some folks complain about on the CPE2000i.
Remind me what the quirks are with the Yamaha EF2000is?
Sorry. I did not mean to raise the hair on the back of your neck with that one.
Perhaps "quirks" was not the best choice of words for an open forum? What I was referring to was "gold" as referenced by Old and Slow. While the Yamaha 2000i is a really sweet generator, I do not see it as being in the same class as the Honda 2000i anymore than I do the CPE2000i.
Both the Yamaha 2000i and CPE2000i have 79 or 80cc engines. The Honda adds another 20cc.
Both the Yamaha 2000i and CPE2000i compensate for the lack of displacement (i.e. low speed torque) by revving the engine to a higher rpm and do so at a lesser load than the Honda. So, if you are in ECON mode the small engine will step up rpm sooner than the larger Honda engine.
And, alas, neither the CPE2000i or Yamaha 2000i are true 2000 watt inverter generators. They may "peak" at 2000 watts for some brief measurement of time, but neither will sustain the level as long as the Honda 2000i. To get that in the Yamaha line you will need the 2400i.
If you skin a CPE2000i and a Yamaha 2000i and set the engines and alternator side-by-side you will think you are looking at twins. This should come as no surprise as the CPE2000i was supposedly designed by two ex-Yamaha engineers. Again, no surprise as the Honda GX style engines proliferate as clones from China and the 80cc engines used on the smaller open frame generators show the same relationship to the Mitsubishi engine.
Snip:
Many Chinese Honda clones have interchangeable parts ~ How about Yamaha?
With the Yamaha 2000i and the Champion 2000i sitting side by side, which would be the one most quiet? The carbs on the two, are they twins?
The yamaha 2400 is in a league of its own. Quite often the replacement for displacement is higher RPM's. The yamaha 2400 maxes out at 3400 rpm unlike the other that it was compared to. This could translate to a greater longevity, less laboring during surges and quieter performance.
I have a Yamaha 2400 with around 2000 hrs on it, it does have a 171 cc motor. Motor runs strong and does not use any oil, runs all day on a tank of gas. I also have a Champion 1200/1500 with 60 hrs on it, never need to change the oil because it it burns 4 - 5 oz between fill ups. I disconnected the oil sensor to get longer run time, other than that it is a great little unit!
For everyone having surging problems here is a fix that I do on Chinese engines. Get a extra main jet for the carburetor, take it to a motorcycle shop and have them increase the hole 1 size at a time. Only port until the engine smoothes out and runs under load off choke without surging. You need to get it just right and not run too rich. This worked great on all of my Chinese engines and they start first pull with no surging or warm up time. I did the last one in the shop parking lot on my truck bed, it took two sizes over the factory port.
The Yamaha 2400, 2800, and 3000 all use a 171 cc engine. I assume it's the same basic engine and Yamaha decided to maximize the common parts in these 4 generators (2 flavors of the 3000 VA generator). This makes the Yamaha 2400 "over-engined" in my eyes. At 196 cc, the eu3000i is also over-engined, and has a maximum engine speed of 3,500 RPM.
2009 Fleetwood Icon 24A
Honda Fit dinghy with US Gear brake system
LinkPro battery monitor - EU2000i generator
I don't see a single quirk mentioned in the reply.
And the CPE 2000i is not even close to the Yamaha.
Engine displacement is not an issue on the 2000i, it is the software.
I will now "spit the hook out".
professor95 wrote:
DSchmidt_2000 wrote:
professor95 wrote: The Yamaha 2000i is known to exhibit quirks similar to the ones some folks complain about on the CPE2000i.
Remind me what the quirks are with the Yamaha EF2000is?
Sorry. I did not mean to raise the hair on the back of your neck with that one.
Perhaps "quirks" was not the best choice of words for an open forum? What I was referring to was "gold" as referenced by Old and Slow. While the Yamaha 2000i is a really sweet generator, I do not see it as being in the same class as the Honda 2000i anymore than I do the CPE2000i.
Both the Yamaha 2000i and CPE2000i have 79 or 80cc engines. The Honda adds another 20cc.
Both the Yamaha 2000i and CPE2000i compensate for the lack of displacement (i.e. low speed torque) by revving the engine to a higher rpm and do so at a lesser load than the Honda. So, if you are in ECON mode the small engine will step up rpm sooner than the larger Honda engine.
And, alas, neither the CPE2000i or Yamaha 2000i are true 2000 watt inverter generators. They may "peak" at 2000 watts for some brief measurement of time, but neither will sustain the level as long as the Honda 2000i. To get that in the Yamaha line you will need the 2400i.
If you skin a CPE2000i and a Yamaha 2000i and set the engines and alternator side-by-side you will think you are looking at twins. This should come as no surprise as the CPE2000i was supposedly designed by two ex-Yamaha engineers. Again, no surprise as the Honda GX style engines proliferate as clones from China and the 80cc engines used on the smaller open frame generators show the same relationship to the Mitsubishi engine.
No digs, irreverence or slander was intended toward the Yamaha 2000i. But it, as the CPE2000i, is not a Honda.
I hope this works as the "reminder". I honestly do not want to create yet another Yamaha, Honda, CPE, Generac, Honeywell, ETQ, etc. debate any more than a gas vs. diesel or Ford vs. Chevy & Dodge debate.
I am sorry if in some way my remarks pushed on a nerve.
Offline
- follow the directions given previously by mskobier. To assist with his well written explanation I have made some photos. For clarity, the carburetor is removed from the engine.
