While a surge protector is better than no protection at all, it can lure you into a false sense of security, I think there are probably as many, if not more, equipment failures and safety issues caused by low voltage, reverse polarity, open wiring and all of the other issues that a good EMS will monitor than are prevented by simply using a surge supressor. The difference between a surge supressor that plugs into the pedestal and is subject to theft and a hard wired EMS that does everything is around $150 for a 30A system. Compared to what you paid for your rig and the potential cost of replacing all of the electronics in your trailer that's not really a life-changing amount of money. But it's your rig and certainly your money. If you are comfortable that a $4 gadget is going to protect your investment, that I suppose that's all that matters.
MegaJohn wrote: Just currious... what have you guys done when you identified power problems at a campground?
While camping at St Andrew state park in Panama City, FL a couple years ago we noticed our camper provided a little "shock" when standing on wet ground. We mentioned it to the grounds keeper who sent over their "best guy" to look into it. Needless to say the problem was not resolved completely. He blamed the issue on our camper... which has never had this problem at any other campgrounds.
Happy Camping!
John.
Similar situation just happened to me. We were in NC in Feb. and our converter burned up. When I got back home to NJ since it was still freezing, I had to drain the water. When I drain the water I shut the breaker off to H/W so I or my wife don't accidnetly turn on the switch on the h/w heater itself until we fill the tank.
Well we had to take the TT to the dealer for them to replace the converter and when their guy switched it he must have turned on the breaker and unknown to us it burned out the element. Fast forward to April when we were getting ready for another trip. I had never tested anything after the dealer did their work. When we were getting ready I plugged the TT in and low and behold it trips my GFI on my outside outlet. I thought the GFI went bad since the TT never tripped it before. I switched to another outlet and I tripped that GFI. I thought there was a sensitivity issue with the new converter and ran an extension cord directly from in the house and got power to the TT.
I called the dealer and told them what happened and all they told me was it must be my house wiring. I didn't have time to investigate since we were getting ready to leave and thought well...maybe.
I filled about 1/2 tank of water and filled all the lines.
We bought a surge protector and a voltage prtector both and they keep tripping on the house.
We headed out and the h/w wasn't heating very fast with both gas and electric modes on and the surge and voltage prtectors would neither work at the CG. Now I am getting ticked off at the dealer but I figure I will deal with it when we get home.
That night it rained and my wife was barefoot and went to unlatch the door and close it and ZAP!. Now I am really PO'd. The next morning I go to a Lowes and buy a circuit tester and find out all my a/c is reading reversed polarity. I flipped the breakers one at a time to see which circuit was causing the problem and low and behold the h/w was it.
I called Gulfstream and complained about the dealers service guy and they just blew me off that it our problem.
I took it to another dealer and they replaced the element and everything is back to normal now.
Is there any difference between the TRC Power Protector and the one made by Progressive Industries? I hear the PI one is better but I do not know why. Also, does anyone know if either one is made in the US?
The $2.00 "gadget" has exactly the same surge suppression ability as the surge guard, i.e. 20,000 joules.
I agree that low voltage is far more likely to damage an RV. But I know if there is low voltage because I check for that before I plug in. If there is low voltage I only plug in my converter which is good to 95 volts. I simply plug in the rest of the RV to my inverter. Likewise for polarity and floating neutral.
Bob Landry wrote: If you are comfortable that a $4 gadget is going to protect your investment, that I suppose that's all that matters.
The SurgeGuard (Brand name) has the low voltage protection as part of it so it isn't just a surge protector.
The problem with low voltage is that it isn't necessarily constant. Many CGs were wired a long time ago and are not set up to handle the demand that modern RVs put on the antiquated wiring. You can statically check voltage and it is fine. Two hours later, when two newly arrived rigs plug into your same circuit and each fires up two roof top A/C units, the voltage immediately drops below the minimum. Your static reading two hours before will provide no protection.
We all pay our money and take our chances. I'm one who decided that changing my engine belts and tires more frequently than most was in our best interests. That same line of thinking caused me to invest $300 in a unit that would monitor low voltage as well as shut down on surges and let me know about mis-wired plugs. A lighting storm at South Padre island and bad wiring problems in Yellowstone and a CG in MS were conditions that confirmed, at least for me, the wisdom of my choice.
punkaccountant wrote: Is there any difference between the TRC Power Protector and the one made by Progressive Industries? I hear the PI one is better but I do not know why. Also, does anyone know if either one is made in the US?
I really like the PI hardwired units since they are always there and you can get them with a remote display that I find invaluable. Also you can bypass them with a switch on the remote.
The $2.00 "gadget" has exactly the same surge suppression ability as the surge guard, i.e. 20,000 joules.
I agree that low voltage is far more likely to damage an RV. But I know if there is low voltage because I check for that before I plug in. If there is low voltage I only plug in my converter which is good to 95 volts. I simply plug in the rest of the RV to my inverter. Likewise for polarity and floating neutral.
Bob Landry wrote: If you are comfortable that a $4 gadget is going to protect your investment, that I suppose that's all that matters.
cpaharley2008 wrote: When I had the Progressive unit installed it would not allow me to use my generator because of the "open Ground" fault issue that exists on all generators due to their 2 wire system. How did you overcome this issue?
To create a "closed" ground system, simply buy 2 feet long thick guage wire, buy 30 Amp RV "M" connector and buy 30 Amp "F" connector. With these individual parts, assembly together to create a special adaptor cord. When assembling together, ensure "white" (neutral) wire and "brass" (ground) wires/pins are now connected in both ends. Thus, bonding both wires together - fooling the system thinking it's a "closed" ground system. Same "custom adaptor short cable" idea within: - Click Here -
cpaharley2008 wrote: When I had the Progressive unit installed it would not allow me to use my generator because of the "open Ground" fault issue that exists on all generators due to their 2 wire system. How did you overcome this issue?
Not all generators have unbonded neutrals. Most generators made specifically for RV's have grounded neutrals and so do most RV's that come from the factory with generators. The unbonded neutral is typical of a portable generator that some people happen to use with their RV's.
Rather then a surge guard wire in unit, I been looking at their transfer switch to save room in the power bay. Can anyone comment on the ATS vs. the external unit? It looks like all the same bells and whistles plus the bypass if needed.
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