Greetings all, I have read quite a few posts here and else where on my issues, no luck yet. Symptom started a couple of days ago:
1998 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision 36B, Ford F53 7.5L
RV Custom Products CB-115 BCC under the hood
Went to start the RV, initially dashboard lit up, turned the ignition switch to start, everything went dead. Waiting for a while the dash will come back alive but same issue again. Started fine with the Aux Start Button. Basically, did a whole bunch of probing and testing with the meter. I am still stumped. Everybody loves to holler "bad ground" and I am still open to this but......
RV WILL NOT start on Chassis Battery at all. Same thing, dash lights up, dies as soon as you try to engage starter, stays dead, ocasionally lights up again.
-RV runs with chassis batteries disconnected, but NOT with alternator disconnected. This tells me chassis batteries are just not part of the issue.
All three solenoids are good under the BCC, but I get flaky voltage reading on the chassis battery terminal. In the failed condition when the dash is out I read about 3V at the chassis battery terminal. I read this by grounding my meter on the chassis AND I used a length of jumper wire directly to the battery as well. Got about 3v reading it both ways. Where is the 10V going?
I am just about stuck, trying to determine if this is chassis or a coach problem. I just can't see it being a coach issue, everything is normal when the Aux start is engaged and that is not original to an F53 Chassis. Rest of coach works fine which is all Aux bus stuff anyways. Coach runs fine when Aux start solenoid is "locked" in the on position with a jumper wire. I drive around, all is well. Just running on the alternator without the Aux start engaged causes the engine to dip RPM's a bit and sometimes stall when an electrical load is applied, like brake lights, head lights, etc. I have not found a break in the cables between the chassis battery and BCC or the grounding point. What am I missing? Because shutting down the rocker switches above my entry door kills the coach & dash all together I am left to wonder if the BCC is the culprit. If the BCC can kill power to my chassis and coach, is it causing issues now, or should I look else where? Can anyone help?
* This post was
edited 05/21/11 02:47pm by mdruhl7212 *
1997 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision 36' F53 Chassis w/ 460
"All three solenoids are good under the BCC, but I get flaky voltage reading on the chassis battery terminal. In the failed condition when the dash is out I read about 3V at the chassis battery terminal. I read this by grounding my meter on the chassis AND I used a length of jumper wire directly to the battery as well. Got about 3v reading it both ways. Where is the 10V going?"
Sounds like your chassis battery is bad or the battery terminal is dirty depending where you had your meter lead. Was your lead on the terminal or the actual post?
2005 Mandalay 40B
Cat C7 350, 4 Slides
Blue Ox, Brake Buddy
2004 CR-V Toad
ARRL, W5YI, & LARC VE
I wish it was as simple as the battery being weak. I don't think it is a bad idea to check so I'll give it a try but already about 90% sure it is not. I have never seen a battery go from healthy to dead in a single night without something draining it. I read 12V on the battery whether it is connected or not, get a flaky voltage reading on the BCC Chassis battery connection when I step over to the hood and take a reading. I was thinking bad ground so I rigged a jumper wire from the battery negative terminal to my meter. Same reading. I checked the positive cable between battery and BCC, no abrasions, no loose connections, etc. I really would like it to be simple because simple can sometimes be cheaper. I also looked at the chassis battery grounds, even tried regular style jumper cables from the battery negative to the chassis. Used the big alligator clips to connect to unpainted suface in two different places. I was trying to rule out a bad ground. Further downwind, on the vehicle side of the electrics, I just can't believe I have a bad ground there. If I did the problem should reproduce itself whether I use the house battery or chassis battery to start an engine with a malfunctioning electric system. This is really what gets me thinking the problem is more in the BCC area, where coach & chassis meet. All my efforts haven't improved anything yet. Anybody know if the BCC's are still available or got any other ideas too? I do appreciate the idead for battery post & load checking. I will cart the chassis battery to Oreillys in the morning and wire brush the battery cables a little better. I had already cleaned them up a little today.
Oops, missed your post Kendall. That gets me a little more excited about the battery idea. Too bad it is so late already or I would get another one now. I will post tomorrow if the battery fixes it. I have a battery charger / car starter I might use first as a diagnostic deal. Might help me rule out or in the chassis battery before I pull it out.