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 > Electrical problem

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mdruhl7212

Lakeside, CA

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Posted: 05/20/11 09:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Greetings all, I have read quite a few posts here and else where on my issues, no luck yet. Symptom started a couple of days ago:

1998 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision 36B, Ford F53 7.5L
RV Custom Products CB-115 BCC under the hood

Went to start the RV, initially dashboard lit up, turned the ignition switch to start, everything went dead. Waiting for a while the dash will come back alive but same issue again. Started fine with the Aux Start Button. Basically, did a whole bunch of probing and testing with the meter. I am still stumped. Everybody loves to holler "bad ground" and I am still open to this but......

RV WILL NOT start on Chassis Battery at all. Same thing, dash lights up, dies as soon as you try to engage starter, stays dead, ocasionally lights up again.

-RV runs with chassis batteries disconnected, but NOT with alternator disconnected. This tells me chassis batteries are just not part of the issue.

All three solenoids are good under the BCC, but I get flaky voltage reading on the chassis battery terminal. In the failed condition when the dash is out I read about 3V at the chassis battery terminal. I read this by grounding my meter on the chassis AND I used a length of jumper wire directly to the battery as well. Got about 3v reading it both ways. Where is the 10V going?

I am just about stuck, trying to determine if this is chassis or a coach problem. I just can't see it being a coach issue, everything is normal when the Aux start is engaged and that is not original to an F53 Chassis. Rest of coach works fine which is all Aux bus stuff anyways. Coach runs fine when Aux start solenoid is "locked" in the on position with a jumper wire. I drive around, all is well. Just running on the alternator without the Aux start engaged causes the engine to dip RPM's a bit and sometimes stall when an electrical load is applied, like brake lights, head lights, etc. I have not found a break in the cables between the chassis battery and BCC or the grounding point. What am I missing? Because shutting down the rocker switches above my entry door kills the coach & dash all together I am left to wonder if the BCC is the culprit. If the BCC can kill power to my chassis and coach, is it causing issues now, or should I look else where? Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Mike

* This post was edited 05/21/11 02:47pm by mdruhl7212 *


1997 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision 36' F53 Chassis w/ 460

Mandalay Parr

Phoenix, AZ

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Posted: 05/20/11 09:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"All three solenoids are good under the BCC, but I get flaky voltage reading on the chassis battery terminal. In the failed condition when the dash is out I read about 3V at the chassis battery terminal. I read this by grounding my meter on the chassis AND I used a length of jumper wire directly to the battery as well. Got about 3v reading it both ways. Where is the 10V going?"


Sounds like your chassis battery is bad or the battery terminal is dirty depending where you had your meter lead. Was your lead on the terminal or the actual post?


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wilanddij

CA Desert

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Posted: 05/20/11 09:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you had the chassis battery checked under load? Most any auto store will do it for you for free.


Will & Di
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ticat900

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Posted: 05/20/11 09:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

QUOTE:
RV runs with chassis batteries disconnected, but NOT with alternator disconnected. This tells me chassis batteries are just not part of the issue.

this tells me the chassis battery is the problem

Jpony56hd

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Posted: 05/20/11 10:22pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Clean all the battery terminals, post and cables. A dirty treminal will drive the system nuts.

bldrbuck

one or the other

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Posted: 05/20/11 10:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

randco

Somewhere in time

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Posted: 05/21/11 03:11am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If your house battery is 12 volt why don't you disconnect it and switch it our with the chassis battery? Seems to me that this would tell you if it's the wiring or the battery itself.

kendall69

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Posted: 05/20/11 10:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can say with a pretty good certainty it's the coach battery. I just had all these symptoms with what I thought was a good battery. I put in a bran new Interstate and she fired right up.


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mdruhl7212

Lakeside, CA

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Posted: 05/21/11 12:34am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wish it was as simple as the battery being weak. I don't think it is a bad idea to check so I'll give it a try but already about 90% sure it is not. I have never seen a battery go from healthy to dead in a single night without something draining it. I read 12V on the battery whether it is connected or not, get a flaky voltage reading on the BCC Chassis battery connection when I step over to the hood and take a reading. I was thinking bad ground so I rigged a jumper wire from the battery negative terminal to my meter. Same reading. I checked the positive cable between battery and BCC, no abrasions, no loose connections, etc. I really would like it to be simple because simple can sometimes be cheaper. I also looked at the chassis battery grounds, even tried regular style jumper cables from the battery negative to the chassis. Used the big alligator clips to connect to unpainted suface in two different places. I was trying to rule out a bad ground. Further downwind, on the vehicle side of the electrics, I just can't believe I have a bad ground there. If I did the problem should reproduce itself whether I use the house battery or chassis battery to start an engine with a malfunctioning electric system. This is really what gets me thinking the problem is more in the BCC area, where coach & chassis meet. All my efforts haven't improved anything yet. Anybody know if the BCC's are still available or got any other ideas too? I do appreciate the idead for battery post & load checking. I will cart the chassis battery to Oreillys in the morning and wire brush the battery cables a little better. I had already cleaned them up a little today.

Thanks,
Mike

mdruhl7212

Lakeside, CA

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Posted: 05/21/11 12:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Oops, missed your post Kendall. That gets me a little more excited about the battery idea. Too bad it is so late already or I would get another one now. I will post tomorrow if the battery fixes it. I have a battery charger / car starter I might use first as a diagnostic deal. Might help me rule out or in the chassis battery before I pull it out.

Thanks,
Mike

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