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 > Ford Fusion towing 4-down 2010

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Dale.Traveling

Newport News, VA

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Posted: 10/14/11 07:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm thinking of two possible problems but I basing it on that you have a supplemental brake in the Ford.

1. Limited battery capacity and the brake lights are using it up. My feed from the coach only lights a single bulb in each tail light assembly but when the brake buddy is active additional lights come on such as the rear window brake light that are not powered by the coach.

2. Bad isolation diode and power is feeding back to the coach.

Also check to ensure your supplemental brake system, if installed, is fully retracting and you're not running down the road with the toad brake lights on. Beyond that I would start pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery, or add a 12VDC feed line from the coach to the Ford.


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JohnnyT

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Posted: 10/14/11 07:58am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from class A forum

ClassAGeek

NYS

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Posted: 10/14/11 08:20am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dale.Traveling wrote:

I'm thinking of two possible problems but I basing it on that you have a supplemental brake in the Ford.

1. Limited battery capacity and the brake lights are using it up. My feed from the coach only lights a single bulb in each tail light assembly but when the brake buddy is active additional lights come on such as the rear window brake light that are not powered by the coach.

2. Bad isolation diode and power is feeding back to the coach.

Also check to ensure your supplemental brake system, if installed, is fully retracting and you're not running down the road with the toad brake lights on. Beyond that I would start pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery, or add a 12VDC feed line from the coach to the Ford.


Good suggestions.

Perhaps we can ask: Do you have diode protected light circuits? A simple test: If you press the brake pedal on the car and the coach lights change in any way, you have a diode issue.

I will add the following diagnostics:

a. Disconnect car from coach. Turn key to ACC. Let it sit overnight. If the battery is good you have confirmed there is not a fundamental problem with your car itself.

b. Connect car to coach. Turn key to ACC. Let it sit overnight. If the battery is good you have confirmed there is not a fundamental problem with the diode protected light circuits (as suggested by #2 above).

c. Disconnect car from coach. Remove key. Disconnect (+) battery terminal on car. Insert a multimeter set to DC AMPs between battery and terminal. Read current. Should be less than a few milliamps.

d. Disconnect car from coach. Turn key to ACC. Disconnect (+) battery terminal on car. Insert a multimeter set to DC AMPS between battery and terminal. Read current. Should be greater than last test but still just a few milliamps.

e. Connect car to coach. Turn key to ACC. Disconnect (+) battery terminal on car. Insert a multimeter set to DC AMPS between battery and terminal. Read current. Should be within a milliamp or two of the last reading.

One of these tests will likely fail. Let us know. The fix is generally easy once you have isolated parameters around a high current reading.


----
Happy Ford F-53 Class A Owner (2008 Gulf Stream)
2010 Ford Fusion Toad (with 6 speed manual transmission - the only way to tow)
Brake Buddy Vantage, Blue Ox Aladdin Tow Bar,
TST RV 507 TPMS, Power Master Voltage Controller

Coach-man

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Posted: 10/14/11 01:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I thought I read in my owners manuel that I should start and run the engine every 4 to 6 hours when towing 4 down?

ClassAGeek

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Posted: 10/15/11 11:54am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Coach-man wrote:

I thought I read in my owners manuel that I should start and run the engine every 4 to 6 hours when towing 4 down?


That step is required to keep the automatic transmission properly lubricated. Manual transmissions don't have this limitation. It is not related to problems with the battery.

gnm

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Posted: 10/16/11 04:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is a great device to let you charge the toad battery from the rv when traveling.
My Ford Escape battery died so I made sure it wont happen again.

Toad Charge

vfrmarc

Hamburg TWP Michigan

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Posted: 10/16/11 11:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gnm wrote:

Here is a great device to let you charge the toad battery from the rv when traveling.
My Ford Escape battery died so I made sure it wont happen again.

Toad Charge


+2

Had same problem 2010 Fusion, added this product and towed 2,000 miles car started everytime. We use a Roadmaster Even Brake.

wmikeh

Indiana

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Posted: 10/18/11 12:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the info. Will try to do some of the things suggested. Was also told that on the 7 point plug in for the coach that the center pin will keep battery charged, will find out

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