jbobst

Arizona

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I am on my third motorhome now, and my current motorhome is a gas Class A. My previous two motorhomes were Class C's. On all three of these motorhomes, I have noticed the same annoying problem. When driving down the road at highway speeds (60-65mph), the top and bottom of my entry door flaps around a little bit and creates noise from the wind and as it taps against the screen door and door frame. I thought my first class c just had a problem door seal, but they all three have had this problem. I was trying to think of a solution to this problem but the issue is I would need to put in some sort of dead bolt in the top and bottom of the door to keep it sealed better. I don't know how to easily do this, and short of making my screen door ineffective by cutting holes in the screen material, I don't know how I would access the dead bolt latch through the screen door. I assume many motorhomes have this problem, and since so many of your are really handy, I was hoping maybe someone has tackled this problem and might suggest a home made fix to this?
Thanks for any advice!
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wny_pat

Western NYS

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Would help if you posted the make and model of the unit in question.
Is it your 2008 National Sea Breeze 32B?
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jbobst

Arizona

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Yes, my current motorhome is a 2008 National Sea Breeze 32B. Are entry doors different for each manufacturer?
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WyoTraveler

Northwest, Wyoming

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On my Jayco the assist handle to go up into the TT can fold either way. Away from the door or over top of the door. When traveling I fold it over the door.
2013 Monaco Monarch motorhome
2012 Jeep Wrangler toad
AC6CV/7 ex-W8RUR since 1954
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D.E.Bishop

Eagle Rock, CA

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I have a 1990 Bounder 27D and it has the same problem. Sometimes it rattles and sometimes i squeeks. All the time it is annoying.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson
David Bishop
1990 Bounder 27D
1995 Suzuki Sidekick 4X4
Stowmaster 5000
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Dutch_12078

Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

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The entry door on my Coachmen had a rattle to it when underway, but a few minutes adjusting the door latch a bit tighter too care of it.
Dutch
1995 Coachmen Catalina 322QBXL
F53 chassis, 460 V8, TST TPMS
Quadra Bigfoot EZE Levelers
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
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jbobst

Arizona

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I have adjusted the door latch and it's actually so tight it's hard to open and close. The door seals just fine at the latch, but it's the top and bottom of the door that flap around against the screen door and the door jam.
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jbobst

Arizona

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I also have this allen wrench type of bolt on my door, just above the latch. The bolt is on the edge of the door, where the dead bold and latch mechanism catch on the door frame. I believe this is some sort of adjustment, but I am not sure what exactly it adjusts.
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PackerBacker

Montreal (Qc) Adirondacks (NY) Myrtle Beach (SC)

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When I first had our mh, it rattled and squeaked. My fix was to adjust the door latch ( allen key in striker post end) to tighten the door and then I put a strip of electric tape around the striker post to keep the squeak/squeal down.
Eric
2009 Holiday Rambler Admiral 33SFS (34' 3")
2008 Jeep Liberty - North Edition (4x4 auto)
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bsinmich

Holland, MI

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WyoTraveler wrote: On my Jayco the assist handle to go up into the TT can fold either way. Away from the door or over top of the door. When traveling I fold it over the door.
That won't work on a MH. How would you get out if the handle was folded in front of the door? How would you get in after you put the handle in front of the door?
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, 2008 Saturn Vue, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake
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