After a year - 6 months of Florida winter sun - and 6 months traveling in the summer mine looks like it was just applied. Decals were past their prime but came back about 80% and held up well. Eliminates most black streaks too. I did refresh the front and rear caps with one additional coat this fall.
The roof on the other hand did not hold up. Lots of white dull spots where all evidence of RMP has disappeared. I'm guessing that the direct rays of the sun destroy it. Not sure if a UV protectant like 303 would save it. Probably just as easy to apply 303 only. Don't want the roof slick anyway, so when I use 303 I do not wipe it off.
Wes
"A beach house isn't just real estate. It's a state of mind." Pole Sitter in Douglas Adams MOSTLY HARMLESS
Who is putting RMP on painted surfaces? We are talking about fiberglass here.
What choice do us older RV owners have? Your fiberglass RV starts to look faded. What? Wax? Wax on fiberglass is a joke. It doesn't last. My RV is 17 years old so its not like its a big risk. Now that I have done it, its been over a year, it looks great (compared to the chalky dull look) there is NO risk.
Just a great result.
You say you don't like the look of it, that's funny because everywhere I go people ask me why it looks so good.
This stuff is (in my opinion)for older fiberglass RV's that have the dull faded look and painting is not an option.
whit wrote: Who is putting RMP on painted surfaces? We are talking about fiberglass here.
The OP specifically asked about a painted surface. I agree with rgatijnet1. I personally would not put it on a clear coat painted surface for the reasons he stated.
whit wrote: Who is putting RMP on painted surfaces? We are talking about fiberglass here.
The OP specifically asked about a painted surface. I agree with rgatijnet1. I personally would not put it on a clear coat painted surface for the reasons he stated.
Nor any other type sealant to keep oxygen or other elements from reaching the clear cost. Who would protect the clear coat protection?
Has anyone every seen a vehicle with factory painted clear coating fail?
The painted metal we have used Red Max Pro #3 on did not have factory clear coating applied but it did make it look like it after the fact.
I have two older RVs a class A 1988 and a class B 1990, the A is fiberglass, the bottom halve of the B is painted with clear coat coming off, I will try it on both this spring and get back with results. I also have waxed the A but it did not hold up.
Having only paid $25,000 for my coach, I can not see spending $5,000 to paint it. If I ever have the strength and endurance, I will try it on my old coach.
U. S. Navy (RETIRED) 1993
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 34' Diesel Pusher Cummins B5.9 12 Valve Engine, Allison MD-3060 6 Speed Transmission.
TOAD: 2005 Ford Focus Automatic Station Wagon
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain
supercub wrote: I was just reading another post applying this product. I see it's intended use is for floor coverings. Is it ok to use on a painted motorhome? Does anyone know the long term effect it might have on a motohome surface? Thanks
Brian
The OP if needed for a reference.
I have used it on a painted PU and tractor but do not know long term results. It is an easy to remove water base acrylic plastic coating that seems to last and look good for 12-36 months. We only have 6 months of experience with it on fiberglass/gel coat and 3 months on painted auto surfaces.
As nail polish I know it is good for two weeks.
Personally I have not used it as a color wash as some hobbyist do so I have real experience adding color to it.
RMP#3 or the Home Depot Zep label do not have UV protection like Poli Glow claims that costs 1000% more but both versions are reported to be good for about one year plus so not sure the UV protection is very functional or not.
Just because it reflects a lot of the sun light I guess it is reflecting some of the UV energy just as snow can increase your sun burn risk.
Since it is so easy to remove one can test it with ease. Try it on a painted grill, lawn mower, bicycle, car hood (so you can see it every day) or anything you are willing to use as a test subject. Please post back in a year or two about your results and the details of your test condition.
10 years is about the longest usage I have read about and that was in the boating industry.
Wow, amazing how badly RMP continues to be ripped by those who have never used it. OK, I will try to make this clear to those people: RMP is not, nor has it ever been, recommended by anyone here or elsewhere for newer or clear-coated coaches in good condition.
rgatijnet1, here's the typical reality for those of us who use it and swear by it: My coach's finish was very weathered and dull/oxidized when I bought it. Over the years, I tried everything I could to improve the finish short of a $5000 paint job. I tried every wax, polish, oxidation remover, fiberglass restorer, etc, etc, etc, made. I used rubbing compounds, polishing compounds, both hand applied and machine applied. What were the results? A lighter wallet, countless hours of labor, sore arms and back, and a finish that in only a few cases, looked slightly better for a few weeks at best. I gave up and accepted that my RV would always "look" like crud.
Then came RMP. The prep work took 8 hours, but was still easier than 90% of the other techniques/products I had tried. And then the next day I applied 4-5 coats of RMP in about 3 hours, including the painted cab section of my class C.
My RV has NEVER looked this good from the day I bought it! It has now lasted nearly a year in the SoCal sun with no fading, no yellowing, no peeling. After about 8 months, it was losing a tiny bit of it's shine, so I took 30 minutes and added a touch-up coat which brought back the great shine.
IF, and I emphasize "IF", it ever starts to deteriorate, I will simply use the stripper (or ammonia) to remove it (which has already been tried by others with great success and no damage to the fibergalss gelcoat), AND THEN I WILL RE-APPLY IT! Because, yes, it is that good.
For those of you who cannot accept the fact that people with old deteriorated RVs have found an inexpensive way to get new life for them, get over it. Healthy skepticism is fine, but untill you have actual first hand evidence of the sky falling, stop insisting that it is the worst thing that anybody could even think of doing to their old RV. Our use of RMP takes nothing away from your hand-waxed and polished museum pieces. My RV will never be in a museum. Many, many people who have used and are happy with it are tired of being told they're idiots by those that have no actual experience with it.
Sorry, stepping down from my soapbox now.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!
Keep in mind that base coat/clear coat finishes have been around since the late 70's. The clear coats have been used on enamels, lacquers, epoxy, and urethane paint coats. I have seen many factory clear coats fail but it was always caused by the owner using the wrong type of wax/polish. In the early stages, most owners would use the same wax/polish that they had been using for years. Big mistake. Unless the wax and polish that you intend to use says that it is "safe for clear coats" it will eventually cause damage to the factory finish. In most cases, if they are still in business, the factory can tell you what type of paint was used on your coach.
Offline
