Just got the new truck GMC 3500HD DRW, disel 4x4, it has the built in brake controler. I have a hitch company reinstalling the fifth wheel hitch tomorrow then I'll see how the trailer rides. My question is the owners manual from GMC states set the controler so the brakes don't lock up but just below that. I have never set a controler up before. I know you have to be moving and then manual slide the switch to stop. How do I know the brakes lock up or the brakes are slowly stoping the whole thing?????
If the brakes lock on pavement you'll know it. It sounds like screeching tires and everyone within earshot looks your way.
On gravel, it will leave skid marks.
Setting up a brake control isn't an exact science. It takes some time to get the feel for the rig and how you want the brakes to react. Different road conditions, speeds, and trailer weights will also change things a bit.
You just need practice to get the hang of it.
captbru wrote: Just got the new truck GMC 3500HD DRW, disel 4x4, it has the built in brake controler. I have a hitch company reinstalling the fifth wheel hitch tomorrow then I'll see how the trailer rides. My question is the owners manual from GMC states set the controler so the brakes don't lock up but just below that. I have never set a controler up before. I know you have to be moving and then manual slide the switch to stop. How do I know the brakes lock up or the brakes are slowly stoping the whole thing?????
Captbru
If you have a trailer side connector that has twin contact terminals you will want to replace it as soon as possible. The twin contact terminal trailer plug doesn't work well with your tow vehicle receptacle. The trailer plug terminals just touch the tips of the TV terminals. This will cause high insertion force and intermittent connections when the connector is rocked slightly.
Your truck receptacle is designed to SAE J2863 specification. The spec dictates that a flat blade style terminal 7 pin RV trailer plug be used with the truck receptacle.
You can purchase a new flat blade style connector or replace the entire pigtail with a new water proof flat blade style connector. This connector will fully mate with your tow vehicle receptacle and provide a reliable connection.
I have done the dimensional layouts and x-rayed the mated connector pairs. Some twin contact terminals are better than others, but they all suffer the same problem. They are not designed to work with receptacles on the tow vehicle.
All people with the 7 pin RV twin contact terminal should replace the trailer connector. Unfortunately this is what is on most RV's.
There are many suppliers of the flat blade style 7 pin RV plugs. Below are two that I would recommend. The Pollak is a cheap repair that works well. The Hopkins is a high quality pigtail that has tin plated contacts and is water proof. This is what I will be using on my TT.
The replacement connector is a Pollak Heavy duty 7 pin RV
http://pollak.thomasnet.com/item/connectors/rv-connectors-heavy-duty-adaptors/12-706?
The replacement pigtail is a Hopkins Manufacturing
http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/basic_wiring/standard_connectors/7-pole_rv_blades/7_rv_blade_molded_trailer_cable_8_ft_.html
Frankly, you'd have to be deaf and blind to not notice when the tires lock up. It's that obvious.
Once you've gotten your initial setting, you'll be able to "feel" out what works best for you. After a couple of stops you'll know if you've got too much or not enough brake action, and can make slight adjustments to compensate.
2002 Chevy 3500 DRW 8.1L/Allison
2000 Palomino B1500
...and the reason why I need a DRW to haul a Palomino:
2004 United 7x14 tandem axle enclosed toy trailer
2011 PJ 8x20 7-ton deckover equipment trailer
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